New Heights in Horology: Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and the GPHG in Vietnam
This week, Blancpain reveals the khaki Air Command chronograph, Patek Philippe highlights its innovation legacy, Nomos presents the Tangente 2Date, and Vietnam hosts the GPHG exhibition.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Is Blancpain’s Air Command Ready to Soar to New Heights in Khaki?
Blancpain has just taken its iconic Air Command flyback chronograph to new heights, with a fresh military-inspired twist. The latest editions of this beloved timepiece are now dressed in khaki, housed in ultra-light Grade 23 titanium. Available in two sizes 42.5mm and 36.2mm, these new models pay homage to the original Air Command of the 1950s, a rare watch initially designed for US Air Force pilots.
Both versions boast a matte khaki dial, complemented by beige Super-LumiNova that mimics the vintage radium lume of their predecessors. With khaki leather straps and a bidirectional countdown bezel, these watches effortlessly blend retro military aesthetics with modern craftsmanship. But it’s not just about looks, these Air Command models are built for action. The chronographs feature Blancpain’s high-tech F388B movement (42.5mm) or F188B caliber (36.2mm), offering unparalleled precision with silicon hairsprings and a 5Hz frequency for the larger version.
For those daring nighttime sorties, the luminous numerals and tachymeter scale light up, giving off a green glow. And for collectors, the exclusivity adds a final touch: the 42.5mm edition is limited to 200 pieces, while the 36.2mm comes as a 100-piece limited edition. Want both? You can even buy them as a matching serial-numbered pair, exclusively through Blancpain boutiques.
So, is this khaki-clad Air Command the perfect blend of vintage and modern design?
Patek Philippe: A Legacy of Unmatched Innovation in Watchmaking
Few brands command as much admiration in haute horlogerie as Patek Philippe. With a legacy that spans nearly two centuries, Patek Philippe has made defining contributions to the watch industry, each elevating its already impeccable reputation. But what are the key moments that solidified its status as a true legend?
Let’s start with the invention of the Gyromax Balance System in 1952, which revolutionized timekeeping accuracy by replacing traditional regulating screws with adjustable weights. This breakthrough improved precision and remains a hallmark of Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship.
Equally groundbreaking was the brand’s role as a pioneer in complicated feminine wristwatches. In a time when such technical feats were reserved for men's timepieces, Patek Philippe introduced complications like minute repeaters and perpetual calendars into elegant designs for women, cementing its leadership in both artistry and mechanics.
In 1996, the creation of the Annual Calendar further showcased Patek Philippe’s innovative spirit. This complication, which automatically adjusts for months within 30 or 31 days, requires only one manual adjustment per year, bringing both practicality and elegance to the wearer’s wrist.
Then, there was the historic moment in 2019, when Patek Philippe set the auction record for timepieces, selling its Grandmaster Chime for an astounding $31 million. This highlighted the brand’s allure and its commitment to philanthropy through the Only Watch auction.
Finally, the release of the "Tiffany" Nautilus in 2021 broke the internet. Limited to just 170 pieces, this Tiffany-blue-dialed timepiece became an overnight sensation, reaffirming the iconic status of the Nautilus line and demonstrating the power of luxury collaborations.
NEW WATCHES
What’s Better Than One Date? Nomos Says Two!
Imagine being at the top of a hill in Glashütte, inside a converted church turned sleek event space, surrounded by the watch world’s finest. That’s exactly where Nomos chose to unveil their latest creation, the Tangente 2Date, featuring not one but two date displays! Sounds fun, right?
Nomos has a reputation for being cool and understated, but this new release really turned heads. The excitement began with the introduction of their third in-house movement, the DUW 4601. This manually wound movement features a quick-date correction and gorgeous off-centered sunray stripes that extend onto the date ring, a design detail that’s hard to miss. And then, bam! They revealed the Tangente 2Date, keeping the iconic Bauhaus-inspired design intact while adding a little playful twist with those two date indicators.
You might be wondering, why two dates? Well, it’s not just for fun. Nomos designed the Tangente 2Date to highlight their new movement, while also bringing an extra splash of color and creativity to the dial. One date is in a cool little aperture at six o’clock, and the second? A ring around the dial with contrasting dots to show the days passing. It’s different, it’s stylish, and it gives you a fresh way to visualize time.
Coming in two colorways, classic silver with red details or a stunning sunray blue, the Tangente 2Date is water-resistant to 50m and priced under CHF 3,000. For a watch with such an in-house movement, that’s a real steal.
Journey Through Time and Innovation with H. Moser & Cie. and Massena LAB
Get ready to embark on a horological adventure with the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a limited-edition marvel created in collaboration with Massena LAB. This stunning piece, limited to just 100 pieces, blends vintage charm with modern innovation, paying tribute to Moser’s rich history while daring to push boundaries.
With its classic 1940s-inspired "Compax" configuration, this chronograph channels the spirit of old-school explorers, with its symmetrical sub-dials, tachymeter scale, and the iconic Funky Blue dial. Perfectly balanced, this design feels like it could be plucked straight from a museum, but it’s crafted for today's adventurer. Plus, with Super-LumiNova® elements, it’s as practical as it is beautiful, ensuring perfect legibility even in the wildest of conditions.
At its heart, the 41mm stainless steel case houses an automatic movement, paired with a brown kudu leather strap that’s as rugged as it is refined. Whether you're navigating through unpredictable environments or just admiring its craftsmanship, this watch doesn’t just measure time, it takes you on a journey through it.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Vietnam Takes Center Stage in the World of Fine Watches!
The world of horology just got a little closer for watch lovers in Vietnam! From October 8 to 10, the prestigious Saigon Opera House became the hotspot for one of the most exciting watchmaking events of the year. Organized by The Hour Glass, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) brought its traveling exhibition of 90 nominated timepieces to Ho Chi Minh City, offering the public an up-close look at some of the most extraordinary watches of 2024.
With 57 brands and 15 categories on display, this exhibition had everything a watch enthusiast could dream of grand complications, artistic masterpieces, Haute Joaillerie, and even more affordable classics.
Michael Tay, Group Managing Director of The Hour Glass Limited, perfectly summed up the significance of this event for Vietnam’s watch culture, calling it “a pivotal moment” that highlights the country's growing enthusiasm for horology. As for the GPHG President, Raymond Loretan, he sees this as a step toward nurturing young watch lovers and attracting new talents to the industry.
Next stop for these incredible timepieces? New York City from October 18 to 21, before they head to Geneva from 31 October to 17 November for the grand finale, the GPHG Awards Ceremony on November 13, where one watch will walk away with the coveted Aiguille d'Or Grand Prix.
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While waiting for the ceremony, here is especially for you the official catalogue of watches selected in the different categories of the GPHG 2024:
BREAKING NEWS
Can Art and Time Really Come Together on Your Wrist?
Maurice Lacroix has done it again! In collaboration with artist Rodrigo Hernández, they’ve unveiled the stunning Masterpiece Skeleton “With What Eyes?”, a limited-edition piece that brings together art and precision like never before. This unique creation, featuring a handcrafted bronze dial with two monkeys facing each other, is not just a watch, it’s wearable art. With only 100 pieces available, it’s destined to turn heads.
Inspired by philosophical musings and Hernández’s fascination with the animal world, the watch reimagines time itself. The bronze case, contrasting polished and brushed surfaces, houses a hand-wound movement that’s visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, offering a glimpse into the heart of this artistic masterpiece. The dial, intricately hand-engraved, reflects the timeless connection between art and human perception.
Paired with a hand-braided leather strap, this one-of-a-kind creation is more than just a collector's piece, it's a journey through time, philosophy, and art. Ready to experience this masterpiece for yourself?
TAG Heuer and Porsche: A Timeless Celebration of Speed and Precision
TAG Heuer and Porsche have joined forces once again to unveil the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana, a timepiece that embodies the spirit of speed, heritage, and precision. Limited to just 255 pieces, this exclusive chronograph celebrates the 70th anniversary of Porsche’s iconic victories at the Carrera Panamericana, the legendary cross-country race that has left its mark on both motorsport and watchmaking history.
This extraordinary watch draws inspiration from Porsche’s legendary 550 Spyder race car, which triumphed in the 1954 Carrera Panamericana. The 42mm stainless steel case, skeleton dial, and signature color scheme of silver, yellow, and black mirror the vehicle’s striking design. Every detail is crafted with precision, from the skeleton dial inspired by the 550 Spyder’s wheels to the yellow lacquered hands, evoking the high-performance aesthetics of Porsche.
Powered by the in-house TH20-09 tourbillon movement, the watch offers a 65-hour power reserve and features a sapphire caseback showcasing the Porsche steering wheel-shaped rotor. The black perforated leather strap with yellow stitching adds a touch of vintage charm, while the domed sapphire crystal ensures easy readability, a nod to the racers who demand accuracy in the most challenging conditions.
This limited-edition masterpiece is a tribute to the shared legacy of TAG Heuer, Porsche, and the legendary Carrera Panamericana race. Each watch is individually numbered, making it a collector’s dream, blending history with cutting-edge technology.
Merci pour ce partage !
La sélection des montres GPHG est superbe. Hâte de voir les résultats ✨
Thanks for this great content—clear, engaging, and informative