Is Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony more timeless than ever?
This week, discover Patrimony celebrating 20 years, Schwarz Etienne’s vibrant design, a duel of ultra-thin watches, intricate skeleton pieces, and Seiko and Grand Seiko innovations at the HSNY exibit.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Is Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony more timeless than ever?
Vacheron Constantin is celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Patrimony collection, an icon of refined simplicity. To mark the occasion, the maison teamed up with French designer Ora ïto, known for his "Simplexity" concept, where simplicity hides subtle complexity. Together, they’ve crafted an ultra-exclusive limited edition – only 100 pieces available! You heard that right.
This anniversary edition retains the Patrimony’s DNA with a contemporary twist. The yellow gold case, dial adorned with concentric circles, and subtle markers reflect light in a hypnotic way. Every detail, from the hands to the minute track 'pearls,' is rendered in yellow gold, evoking the golden age of 1950s watchmaking. The watch is paired with a burgundy calfskin strap featuring a geometric pattern inspired by the 1970s. It’s a true fusion of past and future.
But don’t stop there – the inner beauty of this watch is just as impressive. At its heart lies the automatic calibre 2450, visible through a sapphire caseback. This movement, decorated to meet Geneva Seal standards, is a masterpiece of watchmaking craftsmanship.
Schwarz Etienne introduces the vibrant Geometry Cherry!
Schwarz Etienne is shaking things up with its latest addition to the Geometry line – the vibrant and daring Geometry Cherry! If you thought last year’s silver and salmon dials were stunning, wait until you see this one. The deep cherry-red dial, designed by the legendary Eric Giroud, takes center stage, blending bold textures and intricate hand-guilloche patterns. This isn’t just another pretty face; it’s a striking piece of art that plays with light, making every glance a fresh experience.
The cherry-red hue, inspired by summer cherries, is not just a color but a vibe. Crafted from 18K gold, the dial is divided into textured quadrants that contrast with cool rhodium-finished hands and a subtle black second counter. But it’s not all about looks – under the dial lies Schwarz Etienne’s ASE 200.02 calibre, a micro-rotor movement that’s as reliable as it is beautiful, boasting an impressive 86-hour power reserve.
At 39mm, the polished stainless steel case is compact yet impactful, making it perfect for any occasion. Paired with a black leather strap and stainless steel folding buckle, this watch is both bold and sophisticated.
ESPECIALLY FOR YOU
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COMPARISON
The Art of Ultra-Thin Watchmaking: Who’s Leading the Way?
We dive into the fascinating world of ultra-thin timepieces, where every millimeter matters, and craftsmanship reaches its peak. The creation of an ultra-thin movement is not just about aesthetics; it's a complication in itself, requiring a delicate balance of precision and innovation. Let's take a look at some of the most impressive ultra-thin watches on the market today.
Chopard leads the charge with its L.U.C XPS Forest Green, an understated 7.2 mm case housing a COSC-certified chronometer movement just 3.30 mm thick. Made from 80% recycled steel, it’s a stunning example of sustainability meeting haute horlogerie.
Breguet brings timeless elegance with its Classique 5157, featuring an ultra-thin in-house calibre at 2.4 mm, housed in a sleek 5.5 mm rose gold case. The hand-guilloché dial and Roman numerals showcase traditional craftsmanship at its finest.
Jaeger-LeCoultre impresses with the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, a mechanical marvel offering a full perpetual calendar in a slender 9.2 mm case. Its clean design and 70-hour power reserve make it a perfect blend of functionality and sophistication.
And we can't forget Cartier with the Santos Dumont, combining skeletonisation and ultra-thin design. Its micro-rotor shaped like the Demoiselle aircraft at 5 o’clock is a charming nod to history.
Each of these watches redefines what’s possible in ultra-thin engineering, with the thinnest reaching a mere 2 mm in thickness.
Skeleton Watches: A Showcase of Craftsmanship
We're diving into one of the most mesmerizing trends in horology skeletonization.This technique unveils the inner workings of a timepiece, allowing us to witness the intricate craftsmanship that goes into every watch. Let's take a closer look at some standout skeleton watches that range from accessible to haute horlogerie masterpieces.
Starting with Alpina, we have the Alpiner Extreme. This entry-level skeleton watch boasts a cushion-shaped steel case and a stunning combination of polished and brushed finishes. Its automatic movement is encased in a 40.5 x 39.5mm steel case, offering a modern and robust aesthetic.
Next up, Maurice Lacroix delivers the Aikon. At 39mm, it’s a more compact addition to the line-up, paying homage to 1970s luxury sports models. It’s perfect for those who crave the vintage vibe in a modern package.
Hublot steps up the game with its Big Bang Unico Sailing Team. This limited edition piece features a carbon fiber case and the much-celebrated Unico calibre, combining high-tech materials and mechanical prowess in a striking skeleton design.
Chopard offers a sleek alternative with the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT. Don’t be fooled by its subtle looks—this timepiece features a titanium case and an ultra-thin in-house movement, making it as light as it is sophisticated.
Bulgari brings the Octo Finissimo—one of the thinnest skeleton watches ever, at just 5.25mm thick, showcasing the marriage of Italian design and Swiss precision.
The high-end category shines with Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak in ceramic, a limited edition that masterfully blends openworking with cutting-edge materials, while Breguet stuns with its Classic Tourbillon for CHF 260,300—a timeless piece with a tourbillon escapement that’s both a nod to tradition and a marvel of haute horlogerie.
Finally, Jaeger-LeCoultre takes skeletonization to a whole new level with the Reverso Gyrotourbillon, featuring two watches in one: a flying Gyrotourbillon on one side and a skeletonized face on the other.
BREAKING NEWS
Is Czapek & Cie’s Limited Edition Antarctique the Perfect Blend of Swiss and Italian Craftsmanship?
Be prepared for something truly special! Czapek & Cie, the independent watchmaker from Geneva, has teamed up with GMT Great Masters of Time in Milan to release a stunning limited edition of its iconic Antarctique model. Unveiled at the prestigious Milano Watch Week, this timepiece is a real showstopper with only 30 pieces available—exclusively through GMT Milano’s boutique.
What makes this watch so captivating? Let’s start with the dial. Crafted by the renowned Swiss dial maker Metalem, it features a unique grainy matte texture in a luxurious 4N gold hue—a color rooted in GMT Milano's heritage. This Franciacorta-toned gold adds a touch of Italian elegance and sophistication, perfect for those who appreciate subtle luxury. The 40.5mm stainless steel case frames the dial beautifully, with a circular satin finish under the minute track that enhances its textured beauty.
At the heart of this timepiece beats Czapek’s in-house SXH5 automatic movement, featuring a refined micro-rotor that provides a plunging view of the mechanics through the sapphire case back. It offers an impressive 60-hour power reserve and showcases the craftsmanship that both Czapek and GMT Milano stand for.
If you’re a fan of high-end independent watchmaking and love the blend of Swiss precision with Italian flair, this exclusive Antarctique GMT Milano Edition is something you don’t want to miss.
‘The First OMEGA in Space’ Makes a Vintage Return
Get ready for a blast from the past! OMEGA has reintroduced one of its most iconic timepieces, ‘The First OMEGA in Space’, now powered by a cutting-edge Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement. Originally launched in 1959 and worn by astronaut Wally Schirra on the Mercury mission, this model has a storied space exploration history. Today, it’s back with a modern twist, while keeping all those nostalgic details intact.
The updated CK 2998 model features a sleek 39.70mm stainless steel case, a black aluminium bezel with the classic tachymeter scale, and OMEGA’s signature "Dot Over Ninety" marking. Its vintage-inspired design includes a hesalite-like form sapphire crystal and a CVD-coated grey-blue dial that echoes the original 1960s version. The Alpha hands and hour markers are filled with Super-LumiNova, giving it a touch of vintage flair, while the white varnished second hand adds a modern contrast.
Under the hood is the latest Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, offering unmatched precision, performance, and magnetic resistance, a true upgrade from its predecessor. You can choose between three options: a black or brown leather strap, or a full metal bracelet featuring OMEGA’s patented comfort release system.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
The Horological Society of New York Unveils “The Evolution of Seiko and Grand Seiko” Exhibit
Today, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) unveils "The Evolution of Seiko and Grand Seiko". This exhibit showcases a unique collection of timepieces from The Seiko Museum Ginza, never before seen outside Japan.
The exhibit spans Seiko’s innovations, from early 19th-century wadokei clocks to the Seiko Quartz Astron, the world’s first quartz watch, and Grand Seiko’s first model. With 25 rare pieces, including items from Grand Seiko's Brand Curator Joseph Kirk, this is a must-see for watch lovers.
The print catalog is available for purchase in-person and online, and is available for free digitally on the HSNY website.
"The Evolution of Seiko and Grand Seiko" is open to the public Monday through Friday from 10AM to 5PM. Learn more here.
thanks for covering Tag Heuer on this episode. would love to read this edition