Hermès: A Journey Through Time, Art, and Innovation
Today, Hermès reimagines equestrian art, Zenith ventures into the jungle, Cyrus innovates, Jaquet Droz enchants with snakes, Hublot dazzles with Djokovic, Hamilton goes retro, and GMT debuts jewelry.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
The Five Horses of Hermès
Hermès takes an equestrian approach to five new timepieces, focusing on its emblematic horse motif. This dedication is deeply rooted in the brand’s origins as a saddlemaker, but Hermès continually reinvents its artistic expression to keep this theme captivating. The key? Mastery of artisanal techniques and imaginative storytelling. Let’s take a closer look.
The Arceau Chorus Stellarum exemplifies cosmic creativity. Its Gothic design features a spectral rider on a constellation backdrop. Powered by a spring mechanism linked to a pusher at 9 o’clock, the watch comes alive on demand, showcasing meticulous champlevé enamel work, gold engraving, and sculpting.
For a vibrant burst of color, the Arceau Costume de Fête draws inspiration from Polish folk art. Designed by Warsaw artist Jan Bajtlik, it incorporates leather marquetry and micro-painted metal with sequins sewn onto the horse’s harness, a nod to Hermès's equestrian heritage.
The Arceau Robe Légère stands out with its intricate simplicity. Using paillonné enamel, artisans hand cut hundreds of silver spangles and carefully place them on an enamel base, creating a lace-like depiction of a horse. This technique highlights Hermès’s dedication to precision and craftsmanship.
The Arceau Duc Attelé, on the other hand, combines technical prowess with artistic design. Featuring a tri-axial tourbillon and minute repeater, its guilloché patterns and horse-head motifs blend mechanical complexity with equestrian elegance.
Finally, the Galop d’Hermès features a stirrup-shaped case, available in steel or gold with diamond accents, balancing timeless sophistication with modern appeal.
How Far Can You Go Into the Wild With the Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle?
Encased in lightweight yet robust brushed titanium, the DEFY Extreme Jungle’s 45mm case is adorned with a Tiger’s Eye stone on its dodecagonal bezel and pusher protectors. This unique gemstone, renowned for its golden-brown shimmer and silky texture, reflects the raw elegance of its namesake. Thanks to the stone's natural patterns, every watch boasts a distinct appearance. Built for durability, the case is water-resistant up to 20 ATM, ensuring resilience in the wildest conditions.
The green-tinted sapphire dial invites a view into the intricate El Primero 9004 caliber, the heartbeat of this exceptional timepiece. Known as one of the fastest automatic chronographs in production, it achieves 1/100th of a second precision through two independent mechanisms: one oscillating at 5Hz for timekeeping and another at 50Hz for the chronograph. Jungle-inspired details, including a khaki-green main plate and a satin-brushed oscillating weight, further enhance the thematic connection.
Adding versatility, the Jungle Edition includes an interchangeable strap system with three options: a titanium bracelet, a khaki green embossed rubber strap, and a black Velcro strap. Each strap can be swapped with ease via push buttons on the case back.
Available through ZENITH boutiques, online, and authorized retailers, the DEFY Extreme Jungle is a rare fusion of technical innovation and artistic expression, capturing the spirit of adventure for collectors worldwide.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Under the Hood: Cyrus’s C102
Cyrus stands apart with its Chronode-engineered C102. This movement, crafted by the renowned atelier founded by Jean-François Mojon, underlines a transparent approach to horology. Chronode, known for its expertise in high-end complications, initially focused on bespoke creations for prestigious clients. It wasn't until 2014, ten years after its founding that the company introduced its first base movement, the C101, a manual-winding calibre with a seven-day power reserve that challenged conventional norms.
Building on this, the C102 debuted four years later. Unlike its predecessor, this automatic movement measures 30.5mm, beats at 4Hz, and delivers an impressive 65-hour power reserve. Its standout feature is its accessibility: Chronode supplies single units and offers customized versions from just ten pieces, providing unprecedented flexibility for independent watchmakers and small-scale productions.
Cyrus highlights the C102’s adaptability through its Klepcys Dice model, showcasing options for custom decoration, skeletonization, and finish. The movement supports demanding complications, such as a double chronograph, and has the torque to integrate features like perpetual calendars, retrogrades, or dual-time displays. It even offers tailored geometry and COSC certification.
With clients like Czapek, Leica, and others preferring discretion, the C102 exemplifies innovation, adaptability, and transparency in a sector often shrouded in mystery, redefining what a base movement can achieve.
Jacquet Droz: Can You Imagine Time Told by a Snake?
Snakes rarely slither into the realm of fine watchmaking, and Jaquet Droz hasn’t ventured into this theme in 12 years. But now, the brand returns with two exclusive timepieces celebrating the upcoming Chinese Year of the Snake in 2025. One features a radiant mother-of-pearl dial, while the other showcases the Sonora Sunrise mineral, marking its debut in Jaquet Droz's creations. These extraordinary watches also break conventions: they have no hands.
The Ophidian Hour ingeniously displays time through rotating discs. The snake’s head points to the hour, and its tail marks the minutes. Encased in a 41mm red gold case, the design highlights the brand’s commitment to technical artistry. The serpent, sculpted from five interconnected blocks of white gold, gracefully arcs across the dial, nearly touching the sapphire crystal at its apex. Its form subtly echoes the Chinese character for happiness, enhancing the piece’s cultural symbolism.
But the true masterpiece lies in the enamel detailing on the snake’s body, a feat that defied traditional crafting techniques. The snake’s sinuous, curved shape presented a unique challenge, as the powdered enamel must adhere to an entirely smooth and circular surface. Despite this difficulty, the artisans achieved stunning results, with the body transitioning from light to dark green or blood red, depending on the model. Adding depth, the “Ruyi” motif, a traditional emblem of protection and prosperity, was designed by The Lord of the Rings illustrator John Howe.
The two designs embody Jaquet Droz’s signature naturalism. The first dial, made of mother-of-pearl, features delicately engraved bamboo motifs enhanced with gradient miniature painting. The second, crafted from Sonora Sunrise, combines soft green and intense red hues with dramatic black veining, a rarity in such a small fragment of mineral.
Both watches are paired with green rubber straps and powered by a red gold oscillating weight visible through the sapphire back. Each movement boasts a silicon balance spring and a 68-hour power reserve, making these creations not only visually captivating but also technically impressive.
NEW WATCHES
Hublot x Novak Djokovic: Game, Set and Match
On November 20, 2024, at Place Vendôme in Paris, Hublot unveiled a new watch in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, a 49.5-gram timepiece that merges advanced materials with personal artifacts from the tennis legend’s career. This event also marked the debut of Hublot’s new CEO, Julien Tornare, setting a tone of transparency and innovation for the brand’s future.
The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is a technical marvel. Crafted for lightness, its Gorilla Glass construction is twice as light as sapphire, while the in-house Unico movement, made of aluminum, is 27% lighter than conventional designs. Its case incorporates 25 Head racquets and 32 Lacoste polo shirts worn by Djokovic during his record-breaking 2023 season, blending sustainability with sentimental value. This watch literally contains “blood, sweat, and tears,” as Djokovic aptly described.
Beyond the watch itself, the event highlighted the synergy between two visionaries. Djokovic, with 24 Grand Slam titles, brought his authenticity and universal appeal to the partnership, charming attendees with his humility and humor. When asked if he’d wear the watch on the court, his candid response, “I don’t know yet... I haven’t tried playing with it”, reinforced his genuine personality.
Julien Tornare, meanwhile, made a powerful impression in his first public appearance as CEO. Opting for humility, he credited his team for the watch’s creation, emphasizing transparency and teamwork over self-promotion. This approach earned him immediate respect, signaling a new era for Hublot that blends authenticity, innovation, and bold vision.
The launch of this timepiece reaffirms Hublot’s ability to challenge norms while staying true to its pioneering spirit, paving the way for a dynamic and inspiring future in haute horlogerie.
How the Hamilton PSR 74 Reinvents the Legacy of the Iconic Pulsar
The 1970s ushered in an era of extraordinary technological breakthroughs, including milestones like personal computers, video game systems, and the advent of the digital wristwatch. Among these innovations, Hamilton’s Pulsar P1, introduced in 1970 and launched commercially in 1972, joining the transition from analog to digitall displays.
Hamilton’s latest creation, the PSR 74, draws its inspiration from the 1974 Pulsar Cushion, breathing new life into its predecessor’s visionary design. This new model reaffirms Hamilton’s commitment to merging technological ingenuity with bold aesthetics, paving the way for a modern era of digital timekeeping.
Retaining the essence of the original, the PSR 74 features the iconic 31mm cushion-shaped case, a timeless design that remains as daring and forward-looking as it was five decades ago. Enhancing its streamlined look, the watch includes a refined bangle-style bracelet with a tapered silhouette, blending retro charm with contemporary elegance.
The PSR 74 introduces practical updates to meet today’s needs. Unlike the single-button system of its forerunner, this model is equipped with two push buttons, enabling the wearer to view both the time and date simultaneously. Users can also select between a 12-hour format with a.m./p.m. indicators or a 24-hour convention. The display combines reflective LCD technology with OLED illumination, enhancing visibility with richer contrast and clarity.
Adding a nostalgic touch, Hamilton has preserved the original typeface for the digital numerals, maintaining the authentic feel of the 1970s Pulsar. Available in sleek stainless steel or with a gold PVD-coated finish, the PSR 74 harmoniously bridges vintage allure and modern innovation, redefining the future of digital horology.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Your Chance to Be Part of a New Jewelry Magazine!
Since 2000, GMT Publishing has been a pioneer in delivering print and digital magazines, as well as organizing events for enthusiasts of watches, sailing, travel, and now, jewelry. As a cherished WorldTempus reader, you can be part of this exciting new chapter.
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Jewelry, an industry even broader and more dynamic than watches, is evolving at an extraordinary pace. Despite this, few media outlets provide regular, in-depth coverage of its intricacies. GMT Publishing intends to fill that void by offering an exclusive look into the world of prestigious jewelry maisons, emerging talents, and accessible brands. From innovative designs and expert craftsmanship to the latest trends and heritage stories, they aim to deliver a comprehensive exploration of this enchanting universe.
Imagine contributing to the development of this magazine or being among the first to receive its debut issue. Your opinions are crucial to shaping this project. What aspects of jewelry spark your curiosity? Are there topics you’ve always wanted to read about?
If you would like to help shape this publication and secure your copy of the inaugural edition, take a few moments to share your thoughts.
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