Audemars Piguet and DOXA: Merging Artistic Mastery with Oceanic Legacy
Watchmaking evolves with Audemars Piguet’s artful fusion, Czapek’s vivid dials, Montblanc’s ingenuity, Vacheron’s zodiac tributes, DOXA’s gem-set dives, and LVMH’s Los Angeles showcase
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Audemars Piguet: Can Art and Watchmaking Truly Become One?
In a brand-new collaboration, Audemars Piguet partners with renowned artist KAWS to create the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “COMPANION” 43mm, a timepiece that merges technical mastery with bold artistic expression. Limited to just 250 pieces, this titanium wristwatch features the iconic “COMPANION” character at its core, making it both a watch and a canvas for modern art.
Born Brian Donnelly, KAWS has risen from New York City’s graffiti scene to global acclaim, with his “COMPANION” character symbolizing themes of nostalgia and curiosity. This iconic figure is brought to life beneath the sapphire crystal of the watch, appearing to press against the watch’s surface, a nod to KAWS’ signature “ad intervention” style. The intricate sculpture, complete with X-shaped eyes and gloved hands, integrates seamlessly with the dial’s titanium sunburst finish.
Beyond its artistic allure, the watch boasts technical prowess. The manually wound Calibre 2979 powers an innovative peripheral time display, shifting the focus from central hands to triangular hour and minute markers along the dial’s edge. These luminescent elements complement the futuristic aesthetic while highlighting the tourbillon housed within the “COMPANION’s” chest.
The ergonomic 43mm case, reimagined for comfort, combines satin-brushed, sandblasted, and polished finishes. KAWS’ signature X motif adorns the bezel screws, and the interchangeable straps offer versatility.
This collaboration exemplifies Audemars Piguet’s commitment to blending haute horlogerie with cultural relevance. CEO Ilaria Resta and KAWS describe this partnership as a mutual exploration of craftsmanship and humanistic design.
Czapek Antarctique Purple Storm
Czapek & Cie has unveiled the Antarctique Purple Storm, an 18-piece limited edition that made its debut at The Horology Club’s 3rd Anniversary event in Hong Kong on November 20.
The centerpiece of this unique timepiece is its hand-varnished dial, crafted by Metalem, a Swiss specialist in dial-making. Using a technique inspired by space and storms, the dial features swirling violet tones that shift and reveal intricate gradients under the light, evoking the drama of a stormy sky. Each dial is one of a kind, a testament to Czapek’s commitment to individuality and craftsmanship.
Technically, the watch is powered by Czapek’s in-house SXH5 caliber, an automatic movement equipped with a recycled platinum microrotor visible through the sapphire case back. With a 60-hour power reserve and a variable inertia balance wheel, the SXH5 delivers both precision and performance, aligning with the brand's contemporary haute horlogerie standards.
This launch is rooted in Czapek’s tradition of blending creative inspiration with cutting-edge mechanics. The journey began with the Antarctique Orion Nebula series in 2020, inspired by a collector's passion for space. In recent years, the Antarctique collection has evolved with other bold designs, and now the Purple Storm brings a new dimension with its vivid violet hues.
WATCH REVIEW
Montblanc 1858 Timekeeper Redefine Modern Watchmaking
The Montblanc 1858 offers far more than just visual appeal, it encapsulates 165 years of heritage, paired with cutting-edge functionality.
At its heart, this chronograph pays homage to the Minerva manufacturer, established in 1858 and renowned for its precision chronographs. Its design draws inspiration from 1920s monopusher chronographs, catering to both vintage watch enthusiasts and those seeking contemporary engineering.
The standout feature is the bezel-activated chronograph. Moving away from traditional chronograph pushers, this innovation enables start, stop, and reset functions by rotating the watch’s 18K white gold fluted bezel clockwise by one click for each operation. With 30 calibrated jumps per turn, it tracks up to ten events, seamlessly marrying form and function.
Visually striking, the 42.5mm distressed steel case showcases a unique patina, achieved using Mont Blanc quartzite and limestone. A grey sunray-finished dial with blue chronograph hands provides bold contrasts, while luminescent accents and tachymeter scales ensure usability and charm.
Inside, the manually wound Calibre MB M13.21 movement features German silver bridges and artisanal decorations, including Côtes de Genève and hand-polished bevels. It comes with a 60-hour power reserve, underlining Montblanc’s technical prowess.
How Does Vacheron Constantin Capture the Essence of the Chinese Zodiac in Timepieces?
Once again Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to Chinese New Year with a breathtaking display of artistry and precision. The celebrated Métiers d’Art La Légende du Zodiac collection expands in 2025 with the "Year of the Snake" edition, showcasing a masterful combination of horological innovation and intricate craftsmanship.
This annual series, limited to 25 pieces in rose gold and 25 in platinum, takes inspiration from the Chinese zodiac. The 2025 centerpiece, a cobra, symbolizes wisdom, renewal, and prosperity. The snake, along with a delicately carved golden rock, is meticulously hand-engraved, requiring three days of work to achieve its lifelike detail. Surrounding this sculpture is a dial adorned with Grand Feu enamel, executed using miniature opaque enamel techniques to depict a stunning natural scene.
Beneath this artistry lies the in-house 2460 G4 calibre. Its unique display system replaces traditional hands with four discs that elegantly present the hours, minutes, day, and date through apertures around the dial’s edge. This innovation not only enhances readability but also frees the central space for the zodiac-inspired artwork.
This year's snake-themed creation joins an extraordinary lineage: the ox of 2021, the tiger of 2022, the rabbit of 2023, and the dragon of 2024. These watches are more than timekeepers, they are works of art, cherished by collectors who are building a veritable menagerie of horological masterpieces.
NEW WATCHES
The Sparkling Alliance of Adventure and Luxury
Today, we dive into DOXA’s latest release, its first-ever gem-set SUB 200T. Known for its technical mastery and rugged dive watches since 1967, DOXA now ventures into a luxurious new chapter, blending diamonds, gemstones, and natural mother-of-pearl with its iconic SUB design.
This collection, featuring seven unique models, showcases bezels encrusted with 107 diamonds and 13 vibrant gemstones. Each dial, crafted from natural mother-of-pearl, boasts a shimmering, unique pattern, making every watch as individual as a fingerprint. The palette includes classic DOXA colors such as Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black, and Aquamarine Turquoise, alongside the debut of a soft, feminine hue: Ocean Dream Pink.
But luxury doesn’t mean compromising performance. These timepieces, housed in 316L stainless steel cases with a compact 39mm diameter, remain true to the SUB's DNA. Equipped with a Swiss automatic movement, a power reserve of 38 hours, and water resistance up to 200 meters (650 feet), they maintain DOXA's commitment to adventure-ready durability. The signature ‘beads of rice’ bracelet and patented rotating bezel reinforce the collection's signature design.
Beyond the technical feats, the luminescent Super-LumiNova® ensures impeccable readability in any light, while the anti-reflective sapphire crystal enhances the sparkle of the mother-of-pearl dials.
Genesis of a Watch: Good Things Come to Those Who Wait
For two years, La Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud has been teasing us with its ambitious "Birth of a Watch" project, a venture that aims to create a timepiece entirely handcrafted, with no digital assistance. The big question: will this long-anticipated watch redefine traditional horology when it's finally revealed in late 2025?
The project reflects a deep respect for the past while addressing the challenges of the future. Every aspect of the watch’s design, creation, and finishing has been approached manually, reviving long-lost skills and bypassing modern tools like CNC machines. Leading this Herculean effort is Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who insists on perfection, even if it means delaying the reveal.
This journey into artisanal watchmaking includes the use of a fusée-and-chain mechanism, a feature synonymous with Ferdinand Berthoud since the FB1 in 2015. Despite the workshop's expertise, creating this intricate transmission entirely by hand presents a formidable challenge. The watch’s aesthetic, teased through its dial design, hints at signature elements like mixed Roman and Arabic numerals, off-center displays, and perhaps even a central seconds hand, details that reinforce the brand’s pursuit of precision.
Only 11 pieces will be produced, with a dedicated team of horological experts, including collaborators from the Time Æon Foundation, working on machines from the 1960s. While many specifics remain shrouded in mystery, materials, case design, complications the project represents not just the creation of a watch but a fight to preserve endangered watchmaking techniques for future generations.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
LVMH Watch Week 2025: Record Number of Participating Maisons
LVMH is set to dazzle the horology world once again with the sixth edition of its renowned LVMH Watch Week, scheduled to take place from January 21-24, 2025, in Los Angeles. This year, the spotlight shifts to the glamorous West Coast of the United States, following successful editions in Dubai, Singapore, and Miami.
Bringing together an impressive lineup of nine watchmaking Maisons, the event will feature industry heavyweights like Bulgari, Hublot, TAG Heuer, ZENITH, DANIEL ROTH, and Gérald Genta. Adding to the excitement, Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co., and L’Epée 1839 will make their debut at this celebrated gathering. This unique blend of traditional and contemporary luxury brands underscores LVMH’s unmatched commitment to horological innovation.
Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches, describes the event as “a can’t-miss rendezvous for watch aficionados,” promising exclusive presentations, stunning new timepieces, and surprises that will set the tone for the year ahead.
More than just a showcase, LVMH Watch Week has cemented its status as a pivotal moment on the global watch industry calendar, offering trade journalists, retailers, and select clients an exclusive first look at cutting-edge designs and technologies. Each Maison will emphasize its unique craftsmanship and creative energy, setting the stage for a dynamic display of innovation.
