Holiday Gift Guide 2024: Which Timepiece Will Add to Your Collection?

Discover bold gift ideas, affordable luxury under CHF 1'000, daring designs such as the Patek Philippe Cubitus as well as artistic collaborations like the Ressence Indigo or the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo

Nov 28, 2024

THIS WEEK’S NEWS

The Perfect Gift for Watch Enthusiasts

WorldTempus, in collaboration with GMT Publishing, presents the ideal gift for passionate watch connoisseurs : The Millennium Watch Book. This latest fifth edition dives deep into the captivating realm of travel watches, celebrating the most notable GMT and worldtimer models from the last two decades.

With 200 pages and over 1,000 stunning photographs, this book stands as the Holy Grail of guides for enthusiasts. It explores the evolution of timepieces along with a curated list of the top 50 travel watches, it shines a spotlight on independent creators, and features insights on past auctions. Available in both English and French, The Millennium Watch Book is the perfect present for any watch lover.

For those seeking even more, the complete Millennium Watch Book collection offers integral editions covering a broad range of topics such as tourbillons, dive watches, chronographs, and standout timepieces since the early 2000s.

The GMT Fine Watch Club has built a reputation for its exclusive partnerships with leading watch brands, crafting limited editions that cater to all kinds of tastes and budgets.

Highlights include:

The De Bethune DB24 Celebration, a titanium masterpiece with striking purple details, reviving a classic model from this avant-garde brand.
The Singer Flytrack Cocktail Timer, a creative piece perfect for elevating your cocktail-making rituals during festivities.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time Automatic GMT Limited Edition, featuring a bronze dial accented by vibrant blue highlights.
The Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Limited Edition, with its glacier-inspired green dial and a robust 300m water resistance, it’s a must have for adventurers.
The Alpiner Extreme Automatic FWC Limited Edition, combining a rugged steel case with a clean white dial and a comfortable green rubber strap.

Quite the selection, wouldn’t you say?!

For those who prefer a hands-on approach, DIY watch kits from Rotate Watches and DIY Watch Club offer the chance to assemble a custom timepiece, delivering a rewarding experience for emerging watchmakers.

An equally appreciated and captivating gift would be a subscription to GMT Magazine. As it provides quarterly updates on the latest trends in watchmaking published in both French/German and French/English editions, including special issues like Lady and XXL, GMT Magazine truly is an exceptional addition to any enthusiast’s collection.

Whether you’re shopping for an insight on the past or a dynamic and modern watch, these thoughtful gifts are guaranteed to bring joy to the watch lovers in your life.

Can a Square Watch Redefine Elegance?

Cubitus "Olive-green" © Sophie Furley / WorldTempus

When Patek Philippe introduced the Cubitus collection, the watch community’s reactions ranged from fascination to hesitation. Yet, history has shown us that initial skepticism often accompanies groundbreaking designs. Could this be the case for the Cubitus?

This timepiece breaks the original and conventional watch shape with its square form softened by rounded edges. Such a bold design choice feels fresh yet subtly familiar. Its dial, adorned with horizontal relief embossing might remind some of the iconic Nautilus’ design but with a contemporary twist.

The collection offers three distinctive models: the platinum Reference 5288P-001, featuring a blue dial, instantaneous grand date, day and moon phase indicators, and no fewer than six patent applications; the bi-metal Reference 5821/1AR-001 in steel and rose gold, showcasing a striking blue sunburst finish; and the Reference 5821/1A-001 in stainless steel with an olive-green dial.

What sets the Cubitus apart is its exceptional thinnes with only 9.6 mm in height, enhancing both comfort and wearability. While photographs might give one the impression of a robust presence, the Cubitus’s slim profile ensures that it sits effortlessly on the wrist, even on those with smaller wrists.

As with many pioneering designs, the Cubitus challenges perceptions. Watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak originally faced initial resistance but later became celebrated as timeless icons. Similarly, the Cubitus seems poised to grow on enthusiasts the more they engage with its intricate details and thoughtful execution.

During a presentation at Patek Philippe’s Geneva Salons, its understated sophistication even cast the venerable Nautilus in a different light. The Cubitus may well symbolize the future of "elegant sporty" watches, seamlessly blending innovation with tradition.

COMPARISON

A New Dawn for Fine Watches

Can exceptional fine watchmaking transcend exclusivity and reach a younger and broader audience? A growing number of brands are now proving that affordability and craftsmanship can in fact go hand in hand.

Presented below is a curated selection of stunning timepieces under CHF 1’000 that combine technical precision with inspired design.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time – CHF 560

Seiko’s Presage offers a sophisticated entry-level watch option, complete with an automatic movement visible through its sapphire caseback. The guilloché dial, evoking the texture of a lunar surface, is enhanced by golden hands and indexes. Limited to just 9’000 pieces, this steel-cased beauty is a compelling choice for aspiring collectors.

Beaubleu CCE Lys – CHF 830

Known for its originality, Beaubleu reimagines time with concentric circular hands dancing across a dial reminiscent of textured paper. This 39 mm watch, housed in a rose gold PVD case and paired with a leather strap, is as much a statement of style as it is a functional timepiece.

Hamilton Khaki Field Murph – CHF 870

A nod to its cinematic roots in Interstellar, the Murph returns with a 38 mm case and a refreshed design. The stark contrast between its white dial and black leather strap evokes elegance and timelessness, while its automatic mechanism keeps the spirit of innovation alive.

Frederique Constant Classics Carrée – CHF 895

This Art-Déco inspired quartz model with its 36 x 25.2 mm rectangular case channels the geometric boldness of the 1930s. Ideal for those venturing into fine watchmaking, Frédérique Constant Classics Carrée models deliver Swiss precision with a touch of vintage charm.

Doxa SUB 200 Sea Emerald – CHF 920

For diving enthusiasts, the SUB 200 offers a robust steel case with an impressive water resistance up to 200 meters and an automatic movement. Its unidirectional bezel ensures reliable performance underwater while the NATO strap emphasizes durability.

March LAB Milady Mansart – CHF 931

This gold-toned quartz watch doubles as a piece of jewelry. The 28 x 33 mm case features chevron motifs on the dial in perfect harmony with the bracelet’s "grains of rice" design. A refined accessory that balances practicality and luxury.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – CHF 965

Tissot’s PRX reinvents itself with cutting-edge materials including a forged carbon case with it’s matching dial. Complemented by a rubber strap, this 40 mm automatic watch blends contemporary aesthetics with proven reliability.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon – CHF 990

Sport-chic perfection is what characterizes the Aikon. The watch is completed by an integrated steel bracelet, a vibrant blue dial and a detailed bezel. With roots tracing back to the 1970s, this watch modernizes its timeless design to today’s palates.

These models showcase the industry’s commitment to making fine watchmaking more inclusive without compromising quality or creativity. A deeper dive into each model reveals even more reasons to explore these more budget friendly luxury options.

Aventurine Dials

Aventurine dials bring a celestial touch to watchmaking, transforming timepieces into miniature works of art. This unique material, a creation of 18th-century Venetian artisans, captures the shimmering elegance of a starry night. Let’s explore how leading brands incorporate aventurine to elevate their designs.

Maurice Lacroix: A Poetic Ode to Love

This particular Masterpiece combines craftsmanship with romance. Its 40mm steel case houses a glimmering aventurine dial, where leaf-shaped hands delicately indicate time as if blown in the wind. A retrograde date at five o’clock adds charm with the inscription “Je t’aime, un peu, beaucoup, à la folie!” (I love you, a little, a lot, passionately!). At ten o’clock, two intertwined hearts serve as a playful small seconds display.

Omega: A Lunar Tribute

The Speedmaster Blue Side of the Moon reimagines its legendary moonwatch in celestial blue. Encased in ceramic, this 44.25mm chronograph features an aventurine dial resembling the night sky complemented by a moon phase display. Paired with a blue alligator strap, it’s a fitting homage to Omega’s spacefaring legacy.

Bulgari: The Green Glow of Spring

Bulgari’s Serpenti Tubogas introduces a fresh take on aventurine with a vibrant green dial. Inspired by architect Tadao Ando, this 35mm quartz timepiece embodies the renewal of spring. Its yellow gold and steel bracelet enhances the watch’s contemporary elegance.

Hermès: A Cosmic Masterpiece

The Arceau Petite Lune elevates celestial design with an aventurine and mother-of-pearl dial. Three miniature planets crafted from aragonite, opal, and freshwater mother-of-pearl orbit within a diamond-studded bezel. At its heart, a moon phase indicator adds depth to this mesmerizing 38mm creation.

Jaeger-LeCoultre: Magic in Motion

The “Rendez-Vous Dazzling Star” captures the mesmerizing grace of a shooting star. This pink gold 36mm watch features a star unpredictably traversing the aventurine dial several times an hour, adding an enchanting element to this already intricate design.

Audemars Piguet: A Stellar Perpetual Calendar

The “Code 11.59” showcases complexity with its perpetual calendar. Encased in white gold, this 41mm watch showcases an aventurine dial mirroring the vastness of the cosmos. Its discreet moon phase indicator harmonizes with the precision of its in-house movement.

Van Cleef & Arpels: The Poetry of Time

The Lady Arpels Jour Nuit pairs a rotating aventurine dial with white mother-of-pearl accents depicting both day and night phases. Diamonds adorn the celestial sun and moon, adding a poetic narrative to this 38mm white gold timepiece.

Bovet: Haute Horology at Its Finest

Bovet’s Récital 28 Prowess 1 is a marvel of grand complications. This masterpiece integrates a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and an innovative world time display. Its aventurine dial enhances the intricate craftsmanship behind the watch with it’s stunning celestial backdrop.

Each of these creations showcases the versatility and elegance of aventurine, making it a hallmark of modern watch artistry.

NEW WATCHES

The Passage of Time in Threads of Blue

Ressence introduces the TYPE 8 Indigo, a new timepiece that merges ancient Japanese craftsmanship with contemporary horological artistry. This exclusive edition, crafted as part of the Indigo Project by Shellman Tokyo, marks a significant milestone: the expansion of Shellman’s space in Isetan Shinjuku, now the largest luxury watch destination in Japan.

This watch sets itself apart with its intricate indigo-dyed silk thread dial, a visual homage to the natural rhythm of time. Inspired by the centuries-old Japanese art of indigo dyeing, the spiral thread design mimics the organic flow of growth rings in a tree. The use of silk thread, unprecedented in Ressence’s creations, symbolizes the fusion of tradition with innovation.

To achieve this effect, Ressence partnered with Buaisou, a Japanese company renowned for mastering the indigo dyeing process. From cultivating their own plants to crafting the pigment, Buaisou ensures the authenticity and depth of the indigo hues. The resulting silk thread, spanning 2.5 meters and measuring just 0.2mm in diameter, was painstakingly applied to the titanium dial by skilled Geneva artisans. This delicate yet precise work takes two full days per dial, showcasing the exceptional craftsmanship involved.

The TYPE 8 Indigo’s minimalist design enhances the indigo’s opulence. By carving out the titanium dial to accommodate the thread's thickness, Ressence is able to maintain its sleek silhouette. Where thinning isn’t feasible, neutral grey PVD pockets subtly frame the bold indigo, emphasizing on its rich deep blue tones.

This limited-edition model is not just a testament to technical precision but also a tribute to indigo’s cultural legacy. Often referred to as "Japan Blue," indigo dyeing dates back to the 6th century, making it one of humanity’s oldest and most enduring arts.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo X Laurent Grasso

Octo Finissimo Laurent Grasso Edition © Bulgari

Imagine capturing the fleeting beauty of natural wonders such as northern lights, solar eclipses, or iridescent clouds, within a single glance. This vision comes to life with the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo X Laurent Grasso, a masterpiece born from the collaboration between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s head of watch design and contemporary artist Laurent Grasso. This unique piece redefines the concept of time itself, presenting it as space shaped by art and metaphysics.

Encased in a deep midnight blue from case to bracelet, the Octo Finissimo evokes the tranquility of a starlit evening. At its center lies a mesmerizing iridescent cloud, created through a meticulous screen-printing process using metallic pigments. Inspired by natural light diffraction, this design pays homage to Grasso’s fascination with ethereal and fleeting phenomena. The watch’s hands seem to float effortlessly over the dial, creating a dreamlike interplay between reality and illusion.

This exclusive edition is limited to just 200 pieces, making it not just a timepiece but a collector’s item. Crafted in titanium and treated with PVD coating, its matte finish enhances the mysterious depth of the design. Grasso’s artistic signature adorns the back of the case, seamlessly merging the worlds of art and watchmaking. The cloud pattern symbolizes a delicate balance between earthly and celestial realms, embodying both the transient and the eternal.

Since its launch in 2014, the Octo Finissimo has revolutionized horology, earning nine world records for its ultra-thin architecture. Inspired by the octagonal designs of Roman monuments like the Basilica of Maxentius, the watch marries precision engineering with timeless aesthetics. The Laurent Grasso edition further elevates this legacy, adding a poetic dimension to an already iconic design.

Owning this watch means wearing a cosmic journey on your wrist, a seamless fusion of art, science and exceptional craftsmanship. Finally, this celestial creation was unveiled in Paris and is now available in an elegant presentation box that mirrors its unique midnight blue allure.

MUST-SEE THIS WEEK

License to Dream

The release of the latest GMT Lady edition brings a kaleidoscope of color and creativity, reminiscent of the childhood thrill of peering into a jar of glittering, multicolored candies. This year's annual special edition offers a dazzling showcase of horological and jewelry masterpieces, each page being a tribute to the artistry and imagination behind these exceptional creations.

This year’s issue shines a light on the evolving relationship between watches and jewelry, where the boundaries between the two worlds crumble to create and reveal versatile and transformative designs.

Iconic brands like Audemars Piguet capture this spirit with the “Code 11.59” collection, adorned with gemstone brilliance, while Tiffany continues to redefine timeless elegance. These pieces go beyond their traditional roles, becoming dynamic accessories that can be styled in innovative ways, wrapped around the neck, worn as waist adornments, or even paired with audio devices. The fluidity of these designs reflects a broader trend toward personalization and boundary-pushing creativity.

Looking ahead, GMT Publishing has ambitious plans to expand its jewelry coverage. By summer 2025, the jewelry section will evolve into an independent trilingual quarterly magazine, celebrating the world of fine jewelry with no gender distinctions.

This new publication will delve into the artistry of great Maisons, highlight the innovation of independent designers, and explore the stories behind precious stones and materials. It promises to offer a fresh perspective on trends, craftsmanship, and the sentimental value of jewelry, appealing to enthusiasts and collectors alike.