H. Moser & Cie. : Redefining Elegance with the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy
This week, H. Moser & Cie. presents the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy, TAG Heuer times F1, Chopard pushes innovation, and Perrelet marks the Year of the Snake.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
The H. Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy: Untamed Elegance
H. Moser & Cie. continues to redefine the boundaries of haute horlogerie with the unveiling of the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy. A striking blend of sophistication and durability, this timepiece stands out with its 5N red gold case and water-resistance up to 12 ATM, making it as suitable for urban settings as it is for outdoor adventures. At its core lies the HMC 805 automatic calibre, featuring a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring, an engineering feat that enhances precision and stability. The new Burgundy fumé dial, an addition to the Pioneer collection, enhances the watch’s allure, catching the light beautifully and complementing the warmth of the red gold case.
Designed for versatility, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is both refined and resilient. The transparent lacquered H. Moser & Cie. logo subtly integrates into the dial, maintaining the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic. Adding a rugged touch, the khaki strap brings a bold contrast to the refined case and dial, reinforcing its adventurous spirit.
Beyond its elegant exterior, this timepiece showcases remarkable technical advancements. The double hairspring, developed by Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie.'s sister company, corrects the shift in the center of gravity during expansion, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism. This design also minimizes the friction typically encountered with a single hairspring, further refining performance. Additionally, the interchangeable tourbillon module, assembled and regulated independently of the main movement, allows for efficient maintenance through an innovative Plug & Play system.
The HMC 805 calibre introduces improvements over its predecessor, the HMC 804, featuring partially skeletonized bridges that provide a broader view of the mechanism. The anthracite grey finish lends a contemporary feel, while the beveled rotor ensures an unobstructed glimpse into the movement, all while maintaining a robust three-day power reserve.
Merging innovation with heritage, the Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy encapsulates H. Moser & Cie.'s philosophy, where technical mastery meets understated luxury.
TAG Heuer kicks off 2025 with a major announcement, as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1
TAG Heuer is making a powerful statement as it kicks off 2025, taking its new role as the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1. This partnership is deeply rooted in the brand’s history, spanning six decades, and continues to be a key element of its identity. With a global audience tuning in to every race, the challenge now is to communicate this connection across multiple platforms, whether through Watches and Wonders, immersive Grand Prix experiences, or engaging editorial content. Beyond precision and performance, TAG Heuer aims to tap into the emotional aspect of the sport, emphasizing its core values of pushing limits, both on the track and in watchmaking. The synergy between human skill and cutting-edge technology remains at the heart of this approach.
At the same time, TAG Heuer’s successful collaboration with Porsche moves forward. Every limited-edition model released under this partnership is met with overwhelming demand, a testament to the passion of Porsche enthusiasts. These special editions not only celebrate a shared heritage but also create unique market opportunities, strengthening relationships between watch retailers and car dealerships worldwide. The newly introduced Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Rallye stands out as an exemplary model, blending the DNA of both brands while respecting their individual identities. It is more than a tribute, it is an exploration of history, innovation, and design.
Expanding its reach, TAG Heuer is also introducing more feminine versions of the Carrera. The chronograph has long been a cornerstone of the brand, and offers a refined yet powerful version for women that aligns perfectly with its legacy. Featuring a sleek 39mm glassbox design, this new model blends elegance with functionality, adding a sensual touch while staying true to the brand’s technical prowess.
TAG Heuer’s commitment to avant-garde haute horlogerie remains strong, as seen in models like the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph. Pioneering creations such as the Mikrogirder and the V4 have already established a reputation for cutting-edge innovation. Developing highly complex timepieces requires time and investment, but customers understand the value of such groundbreaking engineering.
Looking ahead, TAG Heuer is gearing up for a dynamic year beyond Watches and Wonders, with key events like the Monaco Grand Prix, Geneva Watch Days, SIAR, and Dubai Watch Week. These fairs serve as crucial moments to showcase the artistry and technical mastery behind the brand’s creations. While precision and engineering define its watches, TAG Heuer seeks to evoke emotion, inspiring both its teams and customers. With this vision in mind, the brand is poised to make 2025 a year of excitement, innovation, and meaningful connections.
NEW WATCHES
Chopard’s Twin Peaks
Chopard introduces two exceptional timepieces, each built upon the brand’s in-house perpetual calendar movement while incorporating complications never before paired with this calibre: a flying tourbillon and an astronomical moon phase. These creations are a testament to Chopard’s ability to evolve its collections while maintaining a strong sense of continuity.
To appreciate these new releases, it is worth revisiting the history of Chopard’s watchmaking innovations. In 2013, the brand unveiled a perpetual calendar with a tourbillon. Six years later, it reinterpreted the tourbillon in a flying version, eliminating the upper bridge for enhanced visual appeal. The first watch presented this week, the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual, represents the culmination of both these approaches. It boasts a perpetual calendar with a flying tourbillon within a 40.5mm case, a bold yet well-calculated choice. Chopard previously housed its perpetual calendar in a 45mm case and its flying tourbillon in a 40mm case. Opting for 40.5mm required a meticulous engineering effort to fit the movement’s 319 components and twin stacked barrels, ensuring a 65-hour power reserve within a mere 6mm height. Additionally, the chronometer-certified movement includes a stop-seconds mechanism, allowing precise time-setting.
The second model, the L.U.C Lunar One, follows a similar principle by combining an astronomical moon phase with the perpetual calendar movement introduced in 2013. Like its counterpart, it carries the Geneva Seal and a chronometer certification, ensuring high precision. The case remains 40.5mm and is crafted from ethical gold. Each dial features hand-executed guilloché with an unconventional radiating pattern emanating from the 6 o’clock position, drawing attention to the moon phase or flying tourbillon. Available in Forest Green, Deep Blue, or Salmon Pink, these models reinforce Chopard’s commitment to aesthetic refinement and technical excellence.
Turbine Snake: A Silent Revolution
Perrelet continues to showcase its Turbine collection with remarkable consistency, reinforcing its reputation as a distinctive horological concept. The brand's latest creation, the Turbine Snake, demonstrates the versatility of this model while celebrating the upcoming Year of the Snake in 2025.
The snake is a particularly adaptable design element in watchmaking. Unlike rigid animal forms such as cows or pigs, its sinuous shape allows for seamless integration onto a dial without distorting its natural essence. Some watchmakers have already explored this motif in intriguing ways, Genus, for instance, incorporates snake-like curves into its standard displays, while Jaquet Droz has masterfully crafted a one-of-a-kind automaton featuring the creature. Perrelet, however, takes a different approach by leveraging its signature turbine complication, a feature introduced in 1995 and patented in 2009.
Limited to just 88 pieces, the Turbine Snake is designed to honor Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. The dial is adorned with an intricate red PVD-treated surface, featuring a geometric pattern inspired by Chinese aesthetics, complemented by gold accents. At the center, a three-dimensional stamped snake figure coils around the hands, utilizing the reptile’s inherent flexibility to harmonize with the dial’s proportions.
What truly sets this piece apart is the 12-blade turbine, crafted from black anodized aluminum. At rest, it nearly conceals the dial beneath, but as the wearer moves, the turbine spins, gradually revealing the snake in a dynamic, almost hypnotic display. This unique effect adds an interactive dimension, allowing the dial to shift between subtle elegance and striking animation.
With a 41mm case, the Turbine Snake is suitable for both men and women. The latest-generation design refines the model further, featuring an improved strap integration and a slimmer profile, thanks to a slightly flared bezel. Inside, it houses an automatic manufacture calibre developed by Soprod, a movement maker under the ownership of Miguel Rodriguez, who also controls Perrelet.
COMPARISON
A Rainbow Revolution: The Rise of Colorful Ceramic Watches
Once confined to black and white, ceramic watches have embraced a spectrum of vibrant shades. This highly resistant material, initially introduced in the 1980s, has evolved beyond its monochromatic origins, allowing brands to experiment with bold and expressive colors. Let’s take a closer look at some standout timepieces that highlight this chromatic transformation.
At CHF 7,400, Chanel’s J12 remains an icon. Launched in 2000 in black ceramic and soon followed by a white version, it cemented ceramic’s place in watchmaking. The 38mm timepiece features an automatic movement, a date aperture, and a sleek white ceramic bracelet.
IWC Schaffhausen takes a more muted approach with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert (CHF 10,500). Its beige ceramic case harmonizes with the khaki dial and sand-toned rubber strap, evoking the warmth of a sunlit desert landscape.
Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe (CHF 12,600) brings a striking contrast with its black ceramic case and green ceramic bezel. This 43.6mm dive watch, water-resistant to 300 meters, is powered by the in-house Calibre 1315, visible through its coordinated sun-brushed green dial.
Omega’s Speedmaster Blue Side of the Moon (CHF 14,300) takes inspiration from the night sky. Its 44.25mm blue ceramic case, bezel, and aventurine dial create a celestial scene, complete with a moon-phase indicator, set against a leather strap.
Hublot’s Big Bang Unico Red Magic (CHF 26,900) showcases ceramic in a striking red hue. This 45mm flyback chronograph features a skeletonized UNICO movement and is limited to just 500 pieces.
Rolex’s Daytona in platinum (CHF 74,900) offers a refined contrast with its ice-blue dial and chestnut ceramic bezel, an exclusive combination reserved for this material.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (CHF 75,700) opts for a sleek, all-black aesthetic. The 42mm timepiece maintains the bold, muscular identity of the Offshore collection while staying true to the elegance of the Royal Oak DNA.
Finally, Richard Mille pushes artistic boundaries with a CHF 179,000 masterpiece. Its skeletonized movement is framed by an Art Deco-inspired dial crafted from red gold and white gold PVD, adorned with colorful ceramic shapes and diamonds.
From bold hues to refined tones, ceramic has redefined watch aesthetics, offering collectors a vivid new palette to explore.
Watches for the Year of the Snake: Timepieces Aligned with Your Zodiac Sign
Every year, as the Chinese New Year approaches, luxury watch brands unveil limited-edition creations featuring the year’s zodiac animal. These timepieces, often crafted with intricate artistic techniques, celebrate the Chinese zodiac in an elegant and symbolic way. But what if your zodiac animal isn’t traditionally associated with beauty or prestige? Enter the Snake, an enigmatic and often misunderstood creature.
2025 marks the Year of the Wood Snake, and while the Snake may not have the best reputation in certain cultures, in Chinese astrology, it symbolizes intelligence, strategic thinking, and charm. Instead of simply wearing a watch featuring a snake motif, why not choose one that embodies the personality traits and strengths of your zodiac sign? Here are five exceptional timepieces that align with each Snake element.
Wood Snake (1965, 2025): De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite
Known for their intellectual and creative nature, Wood Snakes will appreciate the De Bethune DB28xs Aérolite. The dial, made from a heat-blued meteorite with a unique guilloché pattern, reflects the shimmering scales of a snake. With its lightweight zirconium case and dark anthracite finish, this timepiece is a perfect match.
Fire Snake (1977): Armin Strom Tribute2 Copper Edition
Highly social and perceptive, Fire Snakes need a watch that stands out. The Armin Strom Tribute2 Copper Edition, with its open-worked movement and striking copper mainplate, offers both depth and conversation-starting appeal. Interestingly, the watch’s crown placement aligns with the northeast, an auspicious direction for Snakes in feng shui.
Earth Snake (1989): Urwerk UR-150 Scorpion
Loyal and independent, Earth Snakes resonate with Urwerk, a brand known for its unconventional approach. The UR-150 Scorpion, featuring red and black, two of the Snake’s lucky colors embodies bold individuality. And for those who believe in subtle symbolism, the luminous yellow-green 60-minute marker could complete the trio of lucky hues.
Metal Snake (1941, 2001): MB&F Horological Machine Nº 11 Architect
In Chinese astrology, a person’s zodiac year is often considered unlucky, urging caution and stability. The MB&F HM11 Architect, with its house-like design, represents security and home, a perfect companion for Metal Snakes navigating 2025. Given the Snake’s natural leadership qualities, this avant-garde timepiece, from one of horology’s most pioneering brands, feels like a fitting choice.
Water Snake (1953, 2013): Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon
Instead of opting for the obvious Serpenti line, Water Snakes, known for intelligence and artistic flair will appreciate the complexity of the Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Tourbillon. With its four chiming modes and 754-component movement, this timepiece showcases both technical mastery and musical elegance, aligning perfectly with the refined nature of a Water Snake.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
The Origins of Chopard’s Happy Diamonds
In 1976, Chopard unveiled something the watch world had never seen before: Happy Diamonds. Featuring diamonds that moved freely around the dial, this revolutionary design became an instant icon and remains a signature of the brand.
The concept was born from a walk in the Black Forest, where Chopard’s in-house designer Ronald Kurowski marveled at the way sunlight danced on cascading water. Inspired to capture this brilliance, he devised a way to let diamonds float between two sapphire crystals, unrestricted by traditional settings.
The first Happy Diamonds watch, housed in a gold tonneau-shaped case, debuted in 1976 and won the prestigious Golden Rose of Baden-Baden. Its playful display of diamonds spinning against a black backdrop captivated the public, who were enchanted by its joyful, dynamic aesthetic.
In 1985, Chopard expanded the concept beyond watches to include jewelry, integrating moving diamonds into rings, earrings, and pendants. Then, in 1993, the Happy Diamonds Sport collection arrived, introducing a round steel case with five free-floating diamonds, a design that remains one of the most recognizable interpretations of the concept. Chopard continued to experiment, even replacing diamonds with whimsical goldfish set with sapphires or rubies in the Happy Fish edition.
Over the decades, Happy Diamonds has evolved while staying true to its essence. For its 40th anniversary in 2016, Chopard introduced a prong setting, allowing for larger and more numerous diamonds, further enhancing their hypnotic movement.
Nearly 50 years since its debut, Happy Diamonds has cemented its place in horological history. Under the creative direction of Caroline Scheufele, Chopard continues to explore new interpretations of this mesmerizing concept, ensuring that its legacy of elegance and innovation endures.
