Birthdays are always important whether you are 270 or 20!
This week, discover Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques 222, MB&F’s 20th-anniversary masterpieces, Blancpain’s tribute to the wood snake, and other exclusive watches.
CELEBRATIONS
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates 270 Years with the Return of the Historiques 222
Vacheron Constantin launches its 270th-anniversary celebrations by reimagining the iconic Historiques 222 in stainless steel. This latest edition pays homage to the original timepiece, launched in 1977, while incorporating modern refinements. Among its notable updates is the repositioning of the date window, which now sits closer to the center of the dial, avoiding interference with the minute track. The use of a vintage-style font for the "AUTOMATIC" inscription, along with Super-LumiNova® coating on the hands and hour markers—off-white by day and lime green at night—echoes the historical aesthetic of tritium-lit timepieces. The watch’s finishing reflects the Maison’s unparalleled dedication to detail, combining vertical satin-brushing and polished accents on elements such as the bezel, bracelet, and crown, creating striking light effects.
The Historiques 222 holds a special place in Vacheron Constantin’s legacy. This stainless steel re-edition for 2025 retains the distinctive design and nostalgic appeal of the original while presenting a contemporary vision of the Maison’s values. With its sophisticated finish, relaxed elegance, and uncompromising pursuit of excellence, it bridges the past and the present seamlessly.
Christian Selmoni, reflecting on the Maison’s rich heritage, stated: “Tracing Vacheron Constantin’s past involves looking back at a large swathe of watchmaking history – and as one of the oldest watchmaking Maisons in continuous operation, we undoubtedly have a greater duty of remembrance than any other. This has been understood since 1755 and we consider it an important responsibility to preserve and perpetuate this story for future generations.” He highlighted the wealth of archives, including detailed documents, tools, and components, as well as a private collection of over 1,600 timepieces that chronicle watchmaking styles across centuries.
This commemorative release is a testament to Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to preserving its heritage while pushing the boundaries of contemporary craftsmanship, ensuring the Maison’s legacy endures for generations to come.
Celebrating 20 Years of MB&F
The year 2025 marks a pivotal moment for MB&F as it celebrates its 20th anniversary, a journey that began in 2005 when Maximilian Büsser gathered a network of “Friends” to bring to life his vision of horological innovation. Reflecting on this milestone, Büsser shares, “It is like a dream come true, only I never dreamt it. I could never have even imagined we would be where we are today back then; it is surreal.” This special year will feature new timepieces, collaborations, and surprises, starting with two limited editions—the LM Perpetual Longhorn and the LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn—each limited to 20 pieces.
The Longhorn concept originated in 2009 during the development of MB&F’s first Legacy Machine. Although the idea of long lugs, or horns as they are also called, was visually appealing, practical issues regarding how the watch felt on the wrist led to the design being shelved. The concept resurfaced in 2021, with the introduction of dual holes in the lugs, allowing wearers to choose their preferred strap position. A prototype featuring this innovation, crafted in stainless steel with glossy black dials and rhodium-plated details, was auctioned to support Save the Rhino International, sparking interest in the revival of this design.
The first anniversary piece, the LM Perpetual Longhorn, incorporates a 581-component perpetual calendar designed by Stephen McDonnell. This movement, known for its reliability and ease of use, showcases a unique aesthetic with long horns and a striking black, silver, and blue color scheme. The second, the LM Sequential Flyback Longhorn, builds upon MB&F’s first chronograph, introduced in 2022. Featuring McDonnell’s revolutionary “Twinverter” switch and a flyback function for aviation-inspired timing, this edition brings technical sophistication to the forefront.
Maximilian Büsser highlights McDonnell’s pivotal role in MB&F’s success: “We cannot talk about MB&F’s journey, without talking about Stephen McDonnell.” These two anniversary editions set the stage for a year dedicated to celebrating MB&F’s creativity and collaborations, with more to come.
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
Three of the Most Remarkable Objects That Tell Time
L’Epée 1839, a Swiss clockmaking pioneer with over 185 years of expertise, continues to redefine horology with innovative designs that challenge traditional concepts. Three recent creations—the T35, the Albatross, and the Grenade—demonstrate the brand’s commitment to merging artistry and mechanics in unique ways.
The T35, inspired by the legendary Bugatti T35 racing car, commemorates L’Epée 1839’s 185th anniversary. This timepiece replicates the spirit of the original vehicle, one of the most successful in racing history. Hours and minutes are displayed on the side of its sleek aluminum body, while the clock’s 8-day power reserve is wound by turning the rear wheels. Adding a playful touch, the time is adjusted by turning the steering wheel counterclockwise. Beyond its horological functionality, the T35 incorporates a working handbrake that reveals a gas-powered cigar lighter when pulled. Available in four colors—black, blue, green, and red—each is limited to 100 pieces, making it as exclusive as it is distinctive.
The Albatross, a collaboration between L’Epée 1839 and MB&F, takes inspiration from an imaginary flying ship. It features dual movements: one powers the time display and hourly chime, while the other activates 16 spinning propellers. This intricate masterpiece consists of 1,520 components and offers a choice of functionality, allowing users to operate the chime and propellers independently. Measuring 60 cm in both height and length, it is a bold statement piece available in five translucent lacquer colors, from champagne to black.
For a radically different approach, L’Epée 1839 partnered with The Dial Artist to create the Grenade. This colorful clock blends the imagery of a military hand grenade with vibrant street art. Weighing the same as a real grenade, it displays time on black aluminum discs and is wound by pulling its pin. Limited to 99 pieces in each of eight colors, this collaboration transforms a symbol of conflict into a dynamic work of art.
These extraordinary creations showcase L’Epée 1839’s dedication to craftsmanship and imagination, turning functional objects into captivating conversation pieces.
10 Mechanical Wonders
GMT Magazine’s winter edition showcases a curated selection of extraordinary watches, each reflecting the creativity and technical mastery of their creators. From bold reinterpretations to tributes steeped in history, these timepieces redefine horology.
Perrelet’s Turbine Skull introduces a contemporary edge with its daring design. Beneath 12 spinning aluminum blades lies a guilloché subdial featuring a skull and crossbones motif. Available in steel or black PVD-coated cases, this 44mm watch combines striking aesthetics with practicality. Baton hour markers and luminescent hands ensure visibility, while a self-winding Manufacture movement offers an 8-day power reserve, visible through the sapphire caseback.
Piaget pays homage to its collaboration with Andy Warhol through the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris watch. This vibrant piece features a hobnail-patterned white gold case and a radiant blue meteorite dial, housing an automatic Manufacture caliber. Customization is key, with collectors offered a choice of nine ornamental stone dials in white or pink gold. This revival of Piaget’s Black Tie collection bridges artistic heritage with modern elegance.
Richard Mille’s RM 17-02 Tourbillon showcases the brand’s technical prowess and distinctive style. The airy titanium case and sapphire dial are accented with vibrant blue PVD-treated bridges and gilded gears. This watch balances innovation with meticulous finishing, embodying the avant-garde spirit of the brand.
TAG Heuer continues its partnership with Porsche through the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon x Porsche Panamericana. Inspired by the iconic Porsche 550 Spyder, this bold timepiece captures the essence of motor racing with a skeletonized dial and striking yellow accents. Its sporty design complements the precision of its tourbillon chronograph movement.
Breguet offers timeless sophistication with its Classique models. The platinum cases and black Grand Feu enamel dials create an elegant contrast, emphasizing the craftsmanship behind these 38mm and 39mm watches. Powered by in-house calibers, they embody both tradition and technical excellence.
These exceptional creations highlight the evolving artistry and innovation in modern watchmaking, each offering a unique interpretation of time.
NEW WATCHES
Kross Studio X Chronopassion
Kross Studio has unveiled the KS 06, a one-of-a-kind creation developed in collaboration with the renowned Parisian retailer Chronopassion. Following the success of their previous joint effort, the KS 05 with a meteorite dial, this unique piece showcases the brand’s technical ingenuity and craftsmanship.
This latest model introduces a refined 42mm case size, smaller than the 45mm of its predecessor, without compromising its core technical attributes. The KS 06 features a central floating tourbillon and an impressive five-day power reserve, maintaining its status as one of the few COSC-certified tourbillons available. This fusion of aesthetic refinement and high-performance mechanics makes the watch both a visual and technical marvel.
Inspired by Native American artistry, the KS 06 incorporates a bezel crafted from silver, a first for Kross Studio. The laser-engraved bezel design is exclusive to this model, highlighting the studio’s ability to master the challenges posed by silver’s softness. Complementing this is a turquoise dial ring, a material chosen for its vibrant hue and natural variations. As Kross Studio explains, “People often imagine we just have to cut a round shape out of a piece of stone, but it’s not that simple. It takes considerable dexterity. Many times in the past, when working with turquoise, we’ve had to cut four dials to get one that is absolutely perfect.”
The movement, designed and assembled in-house, showcases Kross Studio’s hallmark ingenuity. The peripheral hour display, driven by a planetary gear system, ensures an uninterrupted view of the tourbillon. True to the brand’s minimalist philosophy, the watch eliminates the traditional crown, opting instead for a back-winding system that enhances both efficiency and elegance.
Crafted in polished and satin-brushed grade 5 titanium, the KS 06 Chronopassion is priced at EUR 122,500, mirroring its predecessor’s cost. This masterpiece exemplifies Kross Studio’s dedication to pushing the boundaries of horological artistry.
Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67
WorldTempus’s "One Watch in One Minute" series takes viewers on a journey through the refined details of the Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67. Filmed in Geneva’s Hotel Angleterre, the video highlights the watch’s homage to the golden era of horology, combining vintage aesthetics with modern craftsmanship.
Housed in a 40 mm stainless steel case with an aged finish, the Polo Vintage 67 exudes the nostalgic charm of a cherished pocket watch. Its ivory dial serves as a clean backdrop for bold black Arabic numerals, a classic railway track encircling the edge, and a recessed small seconds subdial at six o’clock, offering both functionality and a balanced design.
A standout feature of the watch is its tan aviator-style bund strap. This leather pad, located beneath the case, enhances its rugged appeal while allowing wearers to switch between a bold aviator look and a more traditional style. The strap’s versatility reflects the watch’s blend of elegance and casual practicality, making it suitable for various occasions.
Turning the timepiece over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a glimpse into the meticulously crafted La Joux-Perret 7380 movement. This mechanical heart adds a layer of sophistication, underscoring the watch’s dedication to high-quality engineering.
This short but insightful video delves into every detail, showcasing the Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67’s various elements. Watch the full video to see it for yourself.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Blancpain, the Snake, the Moon and the Sun
Blancpain welcomes the Chinese New Year with the release of a 50-piece limited edition Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar, paying homage to the wood snake, the sixth animal in the Chinese zodiac. On January 29, 2025, the wood dragon will give way to the wood snake, symbolizing wisdom, renewal, and intelligence, whose influence will last until February 17, 2026.
This launch continues Blancpain’s tradition of commemorating the Chinese zodiac, which began in 2012 with the introduction of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar. Now in its second 12-year cycle, the 2025 model showcases a platinum 42.5mm case paired with a striking green Grand Feu enamel dial. This harmonious combination elegantly contrasts with the intricate Chinese calendar indications, ensuring clarity despite their complexity.
The Chinese calendar’s lunisolar system differs from the Gregorian calendar by incorporating both solar and lunar cycles. This unique calendar comprises 12 or 13 lunar months of 29 or 30 days, with a leap month intercalated every three years. Blancpain masterfully integrates these elements onto the dial, featuring displays for the five Chinese elements, heavenly stems, Yin and Yang, lunar months, and double hours. At 12 o’clock, an aperture highlights the zodiac sign, while the serpentine hand points to the Gregorian date on the outer rim.
Powered by the in-house Calibre 3638, this masterpiece exemplifies Blancpain’s technical expertise. Introduced in 2012, the movement boasts 464 components, three barrels for a seven-day power reserve, and meticulous finishing visible through the open caseback. A frosted white gold rotor engraved with a coiled snake adds a refined touch, while patented under-lug correctors enable effortless calendar adjustments without tools.
Blancpain’s Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar elegantly captures the essence of the wood snake and the intricate beauty of Chinese horology,