All the News and All the Watches From LVMH Watch Week
This week, discover bold Hublot ceramics, Zenith’s skeleton chronograph, TAG Heuer’s purple Carrera, Bulgari's Serpenti, Louis Vuitton's Tambour, Tiffany’s diamond art, and Genta’s fiery Oursin Opal
LVMH WATCH WEEK
New Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Colours
Hublot once again showcases its expertise in coloured ceramic with three new Spirit of Big Bang models introduced during the LVMH Watch Week. The collection’s bold use of sky blue, dark green, and sand beige ceramic represents the brand’s relentless pursuit of innovation. While these colours have been seen in Hublot’s Big Bang series, it’s the first time they grace the barrel-shaped Spirit of Big Bang line, bringing a fresh aesthetic to this iconic design.
The bezels and cases are crafted entirely from ceramic, with components like chronograph counters, hands, and rubber straps meticulously colour-matched. This material isn’t just about style, it’s hypoallergenic, lightweight, and scratch-resistant. However, achieving vibrant, uniform colours in ceramic is no simple feat. The process demands extensive research and experimentation, as pigments react unpredictably to the high temperatures used during manufacturing.
Hublot’s commitment to material innovation reflects its philosophy of “The Art of Fusion,” championed by former CEO Jean-Claude Biver. Beyond colour, the brand has mastered crafting various watch parts from ceramic, including bezels, cases, and even movement components like ball bearings. This expertise is evident in the new Spirit of Big Bang models, which are powered by the Calibre HUB4700 skeleton chronograph movement. Featuring 278 components and a 50-hour power reserve, this movement is a modern iteration of the acclaimed El Primero calibre from 1969. Its low-friction silicon escape wheel ensures enhanced precision, visible through sapphire crystals on both sides of the watch.
Limited to just 200 pieces per colour, these models are available for CHF 24,900 each at Hublot boutiques and authorised dealers.
DEFY Skyline Chrono Skeleton: A Radical Departure!
Zenith has expanded its Defy Skyline collection with a groundbreaking addition: the first-ever skeleton chronograph. Introduced during LVMH Watch Week, this timepiece combines cutting-edge mechanics with bold, architectural aesthetics, cementing its place as the most dynamic model in the series to date.
The Defy Skyline Skeleton Chronograph builds upon the brand’s signature style. Until now, the collection’s skeleton design was available only in a three-hand version. This new chronograph model brings a fresh perspective, offering an intricate glimpse into the iconic El Primero movement. Zenith has elevated the concept by redesigning the openworked dial, creating a geometric masterpiece. Its sharp angles and multi-level architecture draw the eye inward, creating a striking interplay between depth and precision. The result is a timepiece that feels both sculptural and technical.
Zenith offers two variations of this skeleton chronograph. The first features a vivid electric blue PVD finish, complemented by three grey chronograph counters and vibrant red accents that emphasize the watch’s sporty character. This bold colour scheme echoes the original 1969 El Primero design but with a modern, high-energy twist. The second version opts for an urban-inspired aesthetic with tones of black and slate grey, evoking the skylines of iconic cities like New York.
Both models feature a 42 mm steel case with a 12-sided bezel, which boasts a vertical satin-brushed finish seamlessly integrated with the bracelet. The El Primero movement inside beats at 5 Hz and offers a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring precision and reliability.
Though it forgoes a date display, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton doesn’t aim for compromise. Instead, it stands as a confident statement of modern horology, appealing to collectors who value innovation, craftsmanship, and design purity.
Purple Haze: The Carrera Goes Ultra-Violet
During LVMH Watch Week, TAG Heuer has expanded its Carrera Glassbox lineup with two models dressed in a bold purple livery: a chronograph and a chronograph tourbillon. Known for embracing vibrant dials, TAG Heuer reaffirms its adventurous approach to colour, pushing boundaries in an industry often dominated by monochrome designs.
The Carrera Glassbox chronograph, featuring a 39 mm case, now sports a brushed sunburst smoked purple dial that transitions into black at the edges. This gradient effect pairs seamlessly with a black perforated strap, giving the watch both a playful and versatile character. The purple dial’s impact is amplified by the glassbox crystal, which enhances the indices without distortion, creating a striking visual effect. This aesthetic shift builds on the daring design ethos of the 2022 Monaco purple model while maintaining the technical foundation of the bi-compax chronograph with date at 6 o’clock.
Meanwhile, the 42 mm chronograph tourbillon version elevates the purple motif to new heights. The larger dial accentuates the vibrant hue, while the prominent tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock adds a sophisticated and dynamic element. Unlike its chronograph counterpart, this model omits a date display to avoid overlapping with the tourbillon, ensuring a clean, focused design.
Purple is a rare choice in haute horlogerie, especially for a tourbillon, setting this TAG Heuer creation apart. The chronograph, priced at €6,500, and the tourbillon, at €34,400, offer an accessible entry into this bold colour territory compared to competitors like Audemars Piguet and Speake-Marin.
Whether paired with formal attire or more playful accessories, these Carrera Glassbox models invite collectors to explore uncharted territory in watch design. To fully appreciate their allure, seeing them in person is a must.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence exemplifies the Maison’s innovative approach to haute horlogerie, blending technical mastery with artistic expression. This collection, crafted in collaboration with Louis Vuitton’s Geneva ateliers, introduces two models, one in rose gold and another in platinum that celebrate the seamless integration of design and mechanical excellence.
The Tambour Convergence features a 37 mm case with tapered, cambered sides, creating a slim profile and a comfortable fit. The satin-finished case sides accentuate its sleekness, while redesigned lugs add geometric precision and elegance. A transparent caseback reveals the new in-house automatic movement, the Calibre LFT MA01.01, a robust 4Hz mechanism offering a 45-hour power reserve. With sandblasted bridges, polished peripheries, and an 18K rose-gold rotor, the movement is as visually refined as it is technically advanced.
Time is displayed through two sculpted apertures, inspired by both natural phenomena and the Louis Vuitton family home in Asnières. The hours rotate clockwise through an upper arched aperture, while minutes are shown below, marked by a gold or platinum lozenge. This distinctive layout emphasizes precision and elegance, with sapphire crystals enhancing legibility through subtle curvature and metallized edges.
The platinum version amplifies sophistication with its snow-set plate, featuring 795 diamonds meticulously placed by hand, requiring over 32 hours of craftsmanship. In contrast, the rose gold model appeals to those who value the relationship between a watch and its wearer, gaining a unique patina over time.
With the Tambour Convergence, Louis Vuitton not only honors its legacy of innovation but also sets the stage for the future of contemporary watchmaking, where design and technical achievement converge.
Bulgari’s Serpenti Gets a New Automatic Movement
Building on its expertise in ultra-thin and miniature watch movements, Bulgari unveils the BVS100 Lady Solo Tempo Automatic during LVMH Watch Week. This innovative addition is designed specifically for the Serpenti line and coincides fittingly with the Year of the Snake.
The BVS100 Lady Solo Tempo measures just 19 mm by 3.90 mm, weighs a mere five grams, and offers a 50-hour power reserve. This new calibre highlights Bulgari’s mastery in miniaturization, featuring an oscillating weight engraved with seven serpent scales. Visible through a sapphire crystal case back in the snake’s head, this intricate detail reflects Bulgari’s commitment to merging aesthetics with functionality.
To celebrate this milestone, Bulgari presents seven new Serpenti models across its Seduttori and Tubogas lines. The Seduttori range introduces five references, including two steel models, a gold-and-steel variation, and two diamond-set versions in yellow and white gold. Meanwhile, the Tubogas line features two new rose gold models: one with two loops around the wrist, and another with three.
These watches are subtly thicker to accommodate the new automatic movement but remain as elegant as ever, with diamonds on the bezels and the word "automatic" gracing the dials, except for the full-set models where sparkle takes precedence.
Tiffany & Co. Unveils the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone Watch
Tiffany & Co. celebrates its legacy of innovation and artistry with the introduction of the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone watch. This exquisite creation pays homage to the House’s iconic Sixteen Stone collection, originally designed by Jean Schlumberger in 1959.
Encased in 18k white gold, the 39 mm watch is adorned with 707 diamonds, totaling over 6.5 carats. Its dial features a rotating outer ring showcasing the Sixteen Stone collection’s signature cross-stitch motif in 18k yellow gold, accented by 24 brilliant-cut diamonds. This intricate ring spins freely with the wearer’s movements, creating a dynamic sense of motion that characterizes Schlumberger’s designs.
Crafting the cross-stitch motifs is a meticulous process, involving hand-polishing and precise diamond settings that highlight Tiffany’s unparalleled expertise. The central disc of the dial and the case are snow-set with diamonds, showcasing a fluid, sparkling surface. The gem-setting for the case alone requires 55 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, while the entire watch demands a total of 80 hours of work.
The case back, engraved with a sunburst pattern inspired by Schlumberger’s Floral Arrows brooch, adds another layer of detail. A solitaire diamond crowns the winding mechanism, and the Tiffany Blue® alligator strap features a white gold T buckle set with 49 diamonds.
Powering this masterpiece is the Swiss-made Calibre LTM 2100, an automatic movement offering a 38-hour power reserve. With limited production, the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Twenty Four Stone watch is a rare embodiment of Tiffany & Co.’s dedication to fine watchmaking and artistry.
The Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal: A Tribute to Creativity and Elegance
The latest creation from Gérald Genta, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal, celebrates the Maison’s dedication to artistic ingenuity and horological excellence. This fourth piece in the Gentissima Oursin collection draws inspiration from the legacy of Gérald Genta, blending meticulous craftsmanship with bold design choices.
The watch’s 36 mm yellow gold 3N case, with its unique glass-blasted finish, is adorned with 137 fire opals, individually set using yellow gold pins. These mesmerizing stones, sourced from volcanic regions in Mexico, embody creativity and self-confidence with their warm hues of yellow, orange, and red. Complementing the bezel is an orange cornelian dial, echoing the fire opals’ brilliance and symbolizing vitality and elegance.
First conceptualized by Gérald Genta in 1994, the Oursin design draws its inspiration from the sea urchins he encountered during a family vacation in Corsica. The spiny, spherical forms of these creatures are translated into the watch’s iconic round case adorned with beads, a design language that continues to evolve with the Fire Opal edition. “With this piece, we pushed the boundaries of the Gentissima Oursin creative concept,” explains Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of Gérald Genta.
The watch is powered by an automatic Zenith Elite movement, featuring a custom 18-karat yellow gold oscillating mass designed specifically for this model. Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, Master Watchmakers at La Fabrique du Temps, emphasize the meticulous attention to detail in the movement’s construction, underscoring the Maison’s commitment to excellence.
This edition pays homage to Genta’s passion for meaningful design, blending the vivid aesthetics of fire opals with the timeless elegance of his signature principles. Both a statement of artistry and a celebration of individuality, the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal captures the essence of creativity, making it a true collector’s piece.
