Chopard and the Art of Minimalism: Redefining Simplicity in Time
This week, dive into the art of minimalism, Chopard's timeless couple watches, the exclusive GMT Watch Safari, Perrelet skeletons, Bovet innovations, and the best ski watches
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
The Complexity of Simplicity
Designing a watch with two or three hands might appear straightforward, but it is among the most challenging exercises in the art of watchmaking. With no complications or embellishments to distract the eye, every element of the design is fully exposed, requiring an unparalleled level of precision and creativity.
At first glance, simplicity might be mistaken for ease, but it is far from case. A minimalist watch must embody purity while maintaining the high standards of craftsmanship expected in the industry. Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, captures this sentiment perfectly: “Designing a watch with two hands is the most fascinating and stimulating thing one can do. It relies on the power of an aesthetic idea that underpins strong, balanced creativity designed to stand the test of time.” Such designs require a nuanced balance between aesthetic appeal and technical execution.
In contrast, creating a watch with complex mechanisms such as chronographs, perpetual calendars, or tourbillons is a more structured process. These complications dictate the placement of indicators, subdials, and apertures, providing a natural framework for the design. However, minimalist watches, stripped of these guiding elements, rely on subtle choices like texture, typography, and proportion. Hermès’ Cut collection, for instance, demonstrates this through innovative font work, while Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse makes a bold statement with its unique shape.
A pared-down watch design demands an extraordinary level of detail. Every aspect, from the thickness of the case, neither overly thin nor bulky, to the arrangement of lugs and bezels, must be meticulously considered. Materials like the light-absorbing Vantablack dials of H. Moser & Cie. add another layer of complexity, where any imperfection becomes immediately noticeable.
Ultimately, designing a minimalist watch is an act of restraint, an opportunity to distill a brand’s identity into its purest form. As Guido Terreni aptly puts it: “Aesthetic codes are part of a brand’s history… like musical notes that can’t create emotion on their own, only when you play with them.” It is this mastery of simplicity that ensures such designs remain timeless.
Embark on a Unique Watchmaking Journey with the GMT Watch Safari
This autumn marked the launch of the GMT Watch Safari, an unique event that took participants on an in-depth exploration of Swiss watchmaking. Designed for enthusiasts from across the globe, the week-long program offered a rare opportunity to immerse oneself in the world of horology through a series of carefully curated experiences.
Participants visited legendary brands such as Louis Vuitton, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Hublot, Zenith, and Omega, alongside renowned independent maisons like MB&F, H. Moser & Cie, Gerald Charles, and Jaquet Droz. The itinerary included exclusive access to manufacturers, personal interactions with CEOs, and firsthand exploration of iconic timepieces. The journey culminated with a private visit to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève exhibition at the Musée Rath, where attendees could examine award-winning watches up close.
To enrich the experience further, participants enjoyed surprise activities, including wine tastings hosted by Justerini & Brooks, adding a cultural dimension to the week. These unexpected moments provided a perfect balance between horological discovery and lifestyle refinement. Looking ahead, the GMT Watch Safari will return in 2025 with a completely new itinerary. Places are limited for this highly sought-after experience, so those interested are encouraged to register early for updates on dates and program details.
This event is a rare chance to dive into the fascinating universe of haute horlogerie, offering a blend of education, culture, and unparalleled access to the art of watchmaking. Do not miss the opportunity to be part of this exclusive adventure.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Designers and Movement Manufacturers: A Stronger Partnership
The relationship between designers and movement developers is essential in watchmaking, combining technical expertise with artistic vision. Today, their collaboration centers on storytelling, reflecting a shift in collector expectations. A watch emerges from two key contributors: the artistic director, who crafts its aesthetics, and the technical team, which creates the movement.
As Antoine Tschumi explains, "The difficulty for a designer is handling the expectations of a movement developer who assumes that you can’t sell a watch without a movement, so the caliber must come first. In reality, it’s a complete entity that must enshrine the brand’s DNA." This shift from technical feats to cohesive narratives is underscored by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode, who notes, "Twenty years ago, a new tourbillon resulted in a new product. That’s no longer possible today. Technology must also tell a story, that of the watch and the brand."
Close collaboration between designers and developers has become crucial, with brands like TAG Heuer and Louis Vuitton fostering continuous dialogue. Independent firms such as Agenhor also play a vital role, stepping in where brands lack internal resources. These partnerships often yield remarkable results, as seen with Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo or Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate.
Approaches vary across brands. At MB&F, design takes precedence, adapting technical solutions to bold concepts, even if projects are delayed. Co-founded by watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei, Urwerk exemplifies balance with creativity and mechanics being equally valued.
The lines between design and technical development have blurred, allowing for greater creative freedom. Yet, as Mojon highlights, the real challenge is ensuring the story behind the watch is as engaging as the timepiece itself, uniting design, craftsmanship, and identity in a compelling narrative.
How Does Chopard Redefine Timeless Couple's Watches?
ART in TIME collaborates with Chopard to present an exclusive series of 15 his-and-hers watch sets, celebrating the convergence of technical mastery and artistic expression. These limited-edition Alpine Eagle watches, available only through ART in TIME, represent a bold interpretation of unity and craftsmanship.
At the core of this collection lies a distinctive feature: the “chameleon” dial, which transitions in color from blue to violet, depending on the angle of light. This subtle transformation symbolizes the dynamic nature of relationships, ever-changing yet beautifully synchronized.
The men’s model, the Alpine Eagle XPS, stands out with its ultra-thin 41mm case and prestigious certifications, including the Poinçon de Genève Hallmark and COSC certification, underscoring its precision and adherence to the highest watchmaking standards. The women’s watch, a 36mm three-hand design, exudes elegance with a bezel adorned with baguette-cut sapphires, adding a radiant touch to its refined appearance.
Beyond their technical excellence, these timepieces carry a deeper significance. Wearing matching watches becomes a subtle yet profound way for couples to express their bond, a reflection of harmony and unity. The chameleon dials serve as a poetic metaphor for shared connections, reminding wearers of the ever-evolving yet enduring beauty of meaningful relationships.
Each set is presented in a single luxurious case, further emphasizing the inseparable connection between the two timepieces. Priced at 60,250 Euros (excluding taxes), this collection is a tribute to Chopard’s tradition of excellence and innovation. Reserved for discerning collectors, these watches go beyond functionality, offering a tangible symbol of shared moments and timeless love. For those seeking a unique blend of artistry and sentimentality, this exclusive set offers a truly rare opportunity.
BREAKING NEWS
Could the Perrelet Weekend Skeleton be the Next Iconic Dress Watch?
Perrelet, the Swiss watchmaker celebrated for its innovative Double Rotor and Turbine collections, has introduced a new addition to its Weekend line for winter 2024: the Weekend Skeleton. This marks the debut of a finely crafted skeleton movement in the collection, combining intricate engineering with a timeless design.
Designed for discerning collectors seeking refined elegance, the Weekend Skeleton upholds the core attributes of the series: exceptional craftsmanship, high-quality materials, and an in-house self-winding movement. This calibre pays homage to Perrelet’s founder, Abraham-Louis Perrelet, who pioneered the first automatic movement.
Available in three color options, the model offers versatility while maintaining its understated charm. Each version features unique accents that enhance its individuality without compromising its cohesive identity.
The 39.5 mm case, just 9.61 mm thick, is crafted from polished and brushed steel and comes with a matte black PVD coating, a first for this collection. It is water-resistant up to 5 ATM and features a black calf leather strap with an alligator pattern and a pin buckle engraved with the Perrelet logo.
The focal point of the design is the skeletonised dial, which is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. At its heart lies the P-351-SQ calibre, an in-house movement renowned for its anthracite NAC treatment and microbeaded finish. Visible from both the front and the sapphire crystal caseback, the visible levers and wheels create the impression of a floating mechanism, a detail that showcases the craftsmanship behind this timepiece.
The P-351-SQ calibre, only 3.6 mm thick, reinforces the watch’s slim profile while delivering reliable performance. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it offers a power reserve of 42 hours. Its open-worked bridges, rhodium plating, and gilded components reflect Perrelet’s dedication to Swiss watchmaking artistry.
The Weekend Skeleton reaffirms Perrelet’s ability to blend innovation with tradition, offering a timepiece that appeals to both aficionados and collectors.
Look Beyond
BOVET has released a fresh take on the perpetual calendar with the latest version of the Récital 21, now featuring sapphire crystal dials in three striking colors—green, blue, and brown. These dials provide a glimpse into the intricate mechanisms driving the watch while introducing a modern and stylish flair to its design.
The slightly smoked, colored sapphire crystal dial serves as both a functional and aesthetic feature. It offers a transparent view of the perpetual calendar’s complexities, displaying day, month, and leap year cycle through strategically placed apertures. The retrograde date hand, which elegantly circles the central hours and minutes, adds a dynamic touch. This innovative layout ensures clarity and easy access to essential information without overwhelming the design.
Ease of use has been prioritized with a single pusher that synchronizes all calendar functions. This clever mechanism allows users to update the watch effortlessly, even after it has been idle for several days. The retrograde date hand’s gradual movement during its jump between months creates a visually engaging moment, particularly on the transition from December to January.
Housed in a Grade 5 Titanium case, the Récital 21 features BOVET’s signature writing desk-style case for ergonomic comfort. On the reverse side, watch enthusiasts can appreciate details like the patented double coaxial seconds mechanism and a five-day power reserve, achieved through meticulous hand-finishing of components. The in-house crafted balance spring further exemplifies the brand’s technical expertise.
This version of the Récital 21 reimagines a timeless complication with contemporary touches, highlighting the artistry and innovation that define BOVET. It’s an exceptional blend of tradition and modernity, designed to captivate both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Piste Perfect: The Top 5 Ski Watches
The festive season is often a time to escape work and embrace outdoor activities like skiing. However, the harsh conditions of the slopes, freezing temperatures, rapid descents, and inevitable impacts can be a significant challenge for any watch. Fortunately, some timepieces are specifically designed to thrive in these environments while enhancing the wearer’s active lifestyle.
Longines presents an ideal option with the Conquest Chrono Ski Edition. Released in November to celebrate the 48th FIS Alpine World Ski Championships in Austria, this limited-edition model (2,025 pieces) reflects the brand’s long standing connection to alpine sports. Its robust 42mm steel case features ceramic inserts, while the alpine grey tri-compax dial with a snailed finish ensures elegance and durability. The screw-down caseback showcases an engraved skier in action, affirming its suitability for mountain adventures.
For a more affordable choice, the Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition offers versatility and practicality. First introduced in 2023, this model is available in two sizes, 37mm and 41mm, making it easy to wear under a ski jacket. Various NATO strap options, including a version with a pristine snow-white dial, provide flexibility and comfort. Priced at CHF 925, it combines functionality and style without straining the budget.
For collectors, the Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler Edition stands out. Honoring the 93rd birthday of maritime explorer and author Clive Cussler, this timepiece features an aged steel case and bracelet, along with a rubber strap. Limited to only 93 pieces, it offers a rugged yet refined design that is disappearing rapidly from the market.
For performance-driven skiers, the Eberhard & Co Scientigraf Chrono is indispensable. This newly updated chronograph version of the iconic Scientigraf, first released in 1961, includes luminescent hands and indexes in vintage ivory or orange, making it ideal for timing descents or measuring speed.
Richard Mille takes extreme performance to the next level with the RM 74-01. Featuring a skeletonized tourbillon movement, titanium construction, and a lightweight rubber strap, it is engineered to endure even the toughest conditions. It is a rare find, even on the slopes.
Finally, Hermès surprises with the H08 Chronograph, which combines elegance and functionality. Known for its unique approach to timekeeping, Hermès entered the chronograph domain in 2023 with this refined model. Its thoughtful design and subtle details make it a sophisticated choice for those who value style on the slopes.
