Celebrate New Year in the Finest Watch Style
Celebrate Zenith Pilot's boldness, Cartier Baignoire’s elegance, Blancpain Ladybird Colors, Jaquet Droz's automaton, Breitling Navitimer, and Vacheron Constantin’s historic legacy
BEST OF 2024
Jingle Bells, Jingle Bells, Watches All the Way
As 2024 draws to a close, it’s time to reflect on the watches that have truly captivated us during our tests at WorldTempus. What sets us apart is how we involve the whole team in the process. Every timepiece is passed from one journalist to another, each of whom present their thoughts and opinions. Here are some highlights from this year’s selection:
The Zenith Pilots X Porter Collaboration was an undeniable favorite. During a candid video review, team members shared their first impressions as they examined the new Zenith Pilot models. The striking dark green and orange design drew attention, with opinions evenly split between the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter and the compact Pilot Automatic Porter.
During the summer, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 33 Yellow Gold made a lasting impression. Its ethical yellow gold case, paired with a turquoise eagle-eye dial and a diamond-set bezel, marked a bold departure from Chopard’s traditional alpine-inspired shades. Photographed in the park next to the WorldTempus office, this watch radiated elegance with its maritime-blue dial.
The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds, offered in two sizes (40.5 mm and 38.5 mm), balanced elegance and versatility. The aventurine dial with its 24-facet diamond indexes, along with the finely crafted SCH5 calibre featuring a micro rotor, earned widespread admiration from the team.
With its titanium case and off-centered blue dial, the Bovet Récital 12 impressed all who tried it. Each team member highlighted different aspects, from the visible movement on the dial side to the bracelet’s refined design.
Finally, the Glashütte Original Serenade Luna captivated all the ladies in the office this autumn. Available in five variations, the timepiece stood out for its range of colors and the beautifully finished Calibre 35-14 automatic movement, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Seven Cartier Timepieces that have Marked 2024
Cartier is renowned for its inventive spirit and continues to captivate enthusiasts with extraordinary creations. This year’s highlights showcase the Maison's mastery in blending innovation with artistry.
Cartier Reflection
At first glance, the Cartier Reflection resembles an elegant jewelry bangle, but it hides a delightful secret. Instead of a conventional watch, a mirror cleverly reflects a miniature timepiece from the opposite side, with the hands moving backward to align correctly in the reflection. This playful optical illusion, reminiscent of Cartier’s historic mystery clocks, comes in white, yellow, or pink gold, as well as stunning high-jewelry variations.
Cartier Santos Rewind
Another standout, the platinum Cartier Santos Rewind, features a striking carnelian red lacquer dial. Beyond its vivid hue, the watch surprises with Roman numerals arranged counterclockwise, paired with hands that move in reverse. This unique twist challenges perceptions, adding an interactive element to telling time.
Animal-Inspired Designs – Zebra and Crocodile
Cartier’s animal motifs take center stage with two exquisite pieces. A zebra-inspired model showcases tsavorite garnets, diamonds, and black lacquer, while a crocodile watch dazzles with emerald eyes, sapphire mosaics, and brilliant-cut diamonds. Both reflect Cartier’s unparalleled craftsmanship and artistic innovation.
Cartier Baignoire
The iconic Baignoire returns with its signature oval design, refined ivory dial, and blued hands. Though historically feminine, this versatile model continues to appeal to a broader audience, making it a perfect unisex choice for the festive season.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Decked in yellow gold, black lacquer, and 151 diamonds, the new Tank Louis Cartier is poised for the spotlight. Its sophisticated design is an ideal match for glamorous holiday occasions.
Tortue Monopusher Chronograph
Rounding out the collection, the Tortue Monopusher makes a grand comeback. Offered in platinum or yellow gold, its intricate yet harmonious dial strikes a balance between complexity and elegance.
Cartier’s 2024 releases reaffirm its position as a pioneer in creativity and fine craftsmanship.
NEW WATCHES
Blancpain’s Romantic Rebellion
The new Blancpain Ladybird Colors is a statement of elegance, characterized by its petite case under 35 mm, a bezel adorned with diamonds, and a mother-of-pearl dial. Its moon phase display adds a whimsical touch, featuring delicate eyelashes and a coquettish beauty mark. However, this timepiece is not only stunning ot look at; it is a technical marvel.
Unlike quartz movements, automatic caibers provide a continuous sweeping seconds hand, embodying the concept of "unceasing love." Adding to its poetic symbolism, the hand takes the form of Cupid’s arrow, passing through a heart at its midpoint, while the counterweight features finely crafted feathers.
This attention to detail extends to the dial’s design. Roman numerals, slightly curved to harmonize with the case’s circular geometry, are meticulously hand-painted in vibrant red through five successive layers. Two gem-set rings, subtly tapered like crescent moons, enhance the lunar motif with diamonds of varying sizes, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship.
Limited to only 14 pieces, the Ladybird Colors is a rare creation that boldly redefines femininity in haute horlogerie, offering a distinctive vision for collectors who value artistry and individuality.
Can a Kiss Define a Watch? Jaquet Droz and Chantal Thomass Say Yes
La Ronde des Baisers, the latest creation from Jaquet Droz, brings together haute horlogerie and the bold imagination of French designer Chantal Thomass. This exceptional automaton celebrates love and artistry, featuring a dazzling interplay of motion, diamonds, and the designer’s signature red lips.
The watch stands out with its black and white chequerboard dial, expertly crafted in black onyx and white cacholong. At its heart, a glossy black disc encircles another, set with 376 hand-inlaid diamonds. A simple press of the pusher at 3 o’clock activates the automaton, creating a mesmerizing display of sparkling movement. Adding a playful twist, eleven red lips adorn the design, with the standout feature being a singular kiss “blown” from the 6 o’clock position, an unmistakable signature of Chantal Thomass.
Chantal’s collaboration with Jaquet Droz stems from shared values of creativity and refinement. “We began by sifting through the lace, ribbons, jewels and sketches in my archives, in search of a common thread. I wanted something chic, something visually striking that captivates the attention, but I also wanted it to be poetic, a little bit cheeky, with a hint of seduction,” explains Thomas.
Beyond its aesthetic appeal, La Ronde des Baisers integrates Jaquet Droz is renowned automaton expertise, powered by a complex movement with four barrels. This innovation ensures precise timekeeping alongside the enchanting motion of the rotating discs.
As a unique piece, this watch embodies the harmony of two creative worlds. Engraved with Chantal Thomass’s handwritten signature, it transforms bold femininity into a refined work of art. A hymn to love, this creation exemplifies Jaquet Droz’s talent for reimagining its heritage while maintaining an enduring connection to craftsmanship.
The Origins of the Breitling Navitimer
The Navitimer, first introduced in 1952, has secured its place as a cornerstone of horological history. Designed by Willy Breitling, the watch combined innovative functionality with timeless elegance. Its defining feature, a circular slide rule, allowed pilots to calculate critical in-flight data such as flight plans, fuel consumption, and average speeds. This unique innovation effectively transformed the watch into a mechanical computing instrument, complemented by its baton indexes, three auxiliary dials, and an easy-to-operate notched bezel.
By 1954, the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association (AOPA), the largest aviation club globally, had officially adopted the Navitimer as its emblematic timepiece. This endorsement, coupled with the growth of civil aviation, propelled the watch into widespread popularity. Over the years, it adorned the wrists of influential figures, from NASA astronaut Scott Carpenter to cultural icons such as Miles Davis and Serge Gainsbourg.
The Navitimer redefined the chronograph, merging professional-grade utility with luxury aesthetics. For over seven decades, it has evolved to include a wide array of designs and complications. Since 2010, models have been equipped with manufacturing calibres and certified by the COSC for precision. The collection now spans faithful re-creations of the original 1952 model, bold 46 mm designs, dual time zone displays, and even smaller 32 mm options adorned with diamonds for a refined touch.
As Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, reflects: “The Navitimer is one of the most recognisable watches ever created, revered by collectors as one of the all-time greats. While it began as a professional tool for pilots, it now holds a deeper significance for those who are fortunate enough to wear one. The Navitimer is the perfect companion for any journey – whether by air, land or sea.”
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
What Makes 1755 the Birth Year of Vacheron Constantin?
When it comes to historical legitimacy, few watch manufacturers can match Vacheron Constantin. Its official founding year, 1755, holds a unique significance that distinguishes it from others. This date does not mark the establishment of a workshop, the production of the first timepiece, or the birth of its founder. Instead, it commemorates the signing of an apprenticeship contract between Jean-Marc Vacheron and Esaïe Jean François Hetier on September 17, 1755. This notarized document, valued at 1,000 florins (approximately 10,000 euros today), is the earliest recorded reference to Vacheron and serves as the foundation of the dynasty.
Interestingly, for a long time, the brand’s origins were attributed to 1785, when Abraham Vacheron was thought to have formalized the family business. However, the discovery of this apprenticeship contract in the archives of the State of Geneva revealed a much earlier beginning, thus redefining the brand’s historical timeline.
Among its cherished possessions, Vacheron Constantin retains the first watch created by Jean-Marc Vacheron. Crafted in 1755, this silver-cased piece boasts a delicately engraved balance cock, an enamel dial, and key winding. It remains a tangible testament to the brand’s origins, safeguarded in the Manufacturer's archives.
Throughout its history, the Vacheron name has represented a family legacy, with multiple members creating their own watches under various signatures such as "André Vacheron" and "Vacheron Frères." During challenging periods, like the economic difficulties of the Napoleonic era, the company even diversified into the sale of spirits and fabrics to ensure the continuity of its watchmaking craft.
The iconic name "Vacheron Constantin" was established in 1819 when Jacques Barthélémi Vacheron partnered with François Constantin. This collaboration, combined with Constantin’s innovative strategy of introducing jewellery alongside watches, propelled the brand across Europe and solidified its reputation as a pioneer in luxury horology.
