Merry Christmas to Watch Lovers the World Over
Today we highlight Richard Mille's automotive precision, Louis Vuitton's travel-inspired minimalism, Eberhard's tribute to Dallara, Hamilton's aviation legacy, and the elegance of Parmigiani Fleurier
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Hamilton and Air Zermatt: A Partnership in the Skies
WorldTempus joined Hamilton in the Swiss mountain resort of Zermatt to celebrate two major milestones: the refurbishment of the Hamilton and Air Zermatt boutique and the launch of the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Air Zermatt Limited Edition, a timepiece exclusively available at this location.
This watch is the latest product of a collaboration between Hamilton and Air Zermatt, which began in 2011. The partnership reflects Hamilton’s deep aviation heritage, dating back to 1918, when the brand’s precision instruments became trusted companions for pioneering pilots. Air Zermatt, established in 1968, is renowned for its advanced aerial rescue operations, supported by a team of 75 specialists and a fleet of 11 helicopters.
The Khaki Aviation X-Wind Air Zermatt Limited Edition features a 45 mm stainless steel case with black PVD coating and a sapphire crystal back engraved with the Air Zermatt logo. It is powered by the Caliber H-21-Si, an automatic chronograph movement with a silicon balance spring, designed for exceptional resistance to magnetism, temperature changes, and shocks, qualities essential for rescue operations.
The watch’s dial includes central hours, minutes, and seconds, with chronograph counters positioned at 12, 3, and 6 o’clock. The day and date are displayed at 9 o’clock, while the unique crosswind calculator aids helicopter pilots in navigating challenging wind conditions.
Completing the design, the timepiece is presented on a black Velcro strap bearing Air Zermatt’s slogan, “READY FOR TAKE OFF,” in bright orange, matching the team’s helmets. For those seeking a more traditional option, a black leather strap is also included.
Chrono Overdrive
The RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph McLaren W1 marks the latest chapter in the collaboration between Richard Mille and McLaren, a partnership established in 2016. This extraordinary timepiece draws inspiration from the McLaren W1 supercar, embodying the fusion of advanced engineering and refined aesthetics.
At the heart of this watch is the calibre RMAC4, a meticulously skeletonized movement comprising 480 components. Operating at a frequency of 5Hz, it enables the split-seconds chronograph to measure time with a precision of 1/10th of a second. The rapid-winding mechanism, activated through an orange Quartz TPT pusher, exemplifies the functionality of the design, allowing the wearer to replenish the 60-hour power reserve in mere seconds.
The design reflects McLaren’s dedication to aerodynamics, with a Carbon TPT case complemented by Grade 5 titanium elements. Measuring 43.84mm by 49.94mm, the case mirrors the streamlined contours of the W1 supercar, blending technical innovation with visual sophistication. The openwork dial, inspired by a high-performance dashboard, combines intuitive functionality with dynamic styling. Key features include a function selector integrated into the crown, enabling seamless transitions between winding, date-setting, and hand-setting modes, echoing the practicality of a car's gearbox.
Limited to 500 pieces, the RM 65-01 stands as a testament to the synergy between these two industries. Julien Boillat, Casing Technical Director at Richard Mille, sums up the collaboration: “Making this fourth watch in the series left us with the feeling that Richard Mille and McLaren are perfectly in-tune. We both work to the highest technical specifications with the most high-tech materials, ergonomics are as important to us as they are to them, and our design language really seems to have gelled.”
WATCH REVIEW
Five Reasons We Love the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Only
This summer, Louis Vuitton introduced the Escale Time Only collection, redefining its approach to watchmaking with a focus on simplicity. Moving away from the intricate complications of previous models, this series highlights a minimalist design, offering four refined timepieces dedicated solely to displaying hours, minutes, and seconds.
Anchored in Louis Vuitton’s storied heritage, the collection incorporates subtle design elements inspired by the maison’s iconic trunks. The lugs mirror brass brackets, while stud-like hour markers evoke the protective nails found on the brand’s signature lozine strips. The textured dials of the rose gold models also pay homage to the Monogram canvas, creating a seamless connection between past and present. True to its name, “Escale” meaning “stopover” in French, the collection evokes the romance of travel, enriched by imagery reminiscent of vintage train journeys and elegant luggage.
Aesthetic refinement defines this series. The cases, available in 39 mm or 40.5 mm for the diamond-set version, are thoughtfully proportioned for both elegance and comfort. The domed sapphire crystal integrates smoothly into the bezel, enhancing the watch’s flowing silhouette. Dial options, ranging from the ethereal beauty of meteorite to the deep shine of onyx, add a unique narrative to each model. Rose gold versions feature either silvery or blue stamped dials with luminous indexes.
At the heart of these watches lies the calibre LFT023, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton in collaboration with Le Cercle des Horlogers. This automatic movement, with a 22K rose gold micro-rotor, offers a 50-hour power reserve and chronometer-certified precision. The titanium seconds hand, curved to minimize parallax error, ensures optimal readability.
Versatility completes the collection, with straps crafted from Louis Vuitton’s renowned leather. Whether opting for the classic pairing of a silvery dial with a brown strap or the bold contrast of a blue dial and matching strap, there is a style for every preference. Platinum models, featuring diamond embellishments or the captivating texture of meteorite dials, further extend the collection’s appeal.
Calling All Gear Heads
Eberhard & Co. continues to strengthen its ties to the world of motor racing by dedicating a new timepiece to the renowned Italian race car manufacturer and engineering pioneer, Dallara. This collaboration embodies a shared passion for precision and innovation.
Founded in 1972 by Giampaolo Dallara, the company is synonymous with advanced race car technology, providing chassis for competitions like IndyCar and FIA Formula 2 and 3. The partnership between Eberhard & Co. and Dallara was catalyzed by Miki Biasion, a rally legend and ambassador for the brand. During the prestigious motorsport event La Leggenda di Bassano, Biasion drove the Dallara Stradale, a 400-horsepower marvel capable of reaching 280 km/h and accelerating from 0 to 100 km/h in just 3.25 seconds.
To mark this collaboration, Eberhard & Co. has reinvented its celebrated Contograf, a chronograph first introduced in the 1960s. This limited-edition watch preserves the model’s hallmark features, including a tachymeter scale on the inner bezel with a distinctive red marker at 50 km/h. The black dial is customized with striking yellow counters, a nod to Dallara's signature color, and prominently features the Dallara logo alongside the Eberhard & Co. emblem.
Encased in 42mm stainless steel, the watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement. It includes a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and a date window at 6 o’clock. A ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel and a water resistance of 50 meters complete the robust design. Limited to only 50 pieces, the Contograf Dallara is available exclusively to Dallara and Stradale owners, offering them a timepiece that bridges the worlds of motorsport and fine watchmaking.
NEW WATCHES
What Makes the Revamped Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Collection a Masterpiece?
Revealed at Watches & Wonders 2024, Parmigiani Fleurier’s renewed Toric collection elegantly combines its classical roots with a touch of modern sophistication. CEO Guido Terreni, renowned for redefining the Tonda PF line in 2021, has now turned his expertise toward one of the brand’s iconic collections, originally launched in 1996.
The refreshed Toric line consists of two distinctive models. The Petite Seconde, a 40.6mm minimalist timepiece, is offered in platinum with a Grey Celadon dial or in rose gold with a Sand Gold dial. Meanwhile, the Chronographe Rattrapante, limited to 30 pieces, features a 42.5mm 18K rose gold case paired with a Natural Umber dial. Each design showcases Parmigiani’s philosophy of timeless beauty, enhanced by Terreni’s contemporary vision.
The Toric’s architectural inspiration is evident in every detail, starting with its gadrooned case and knurled bezel. As Michel Parmigiani explains, “Toric derives from the word 'torus,' a geometric shape that represents a curved tube closed in on itself, found at the base of Greco-Roman columns. These tori inspired the name 'Toric.'” This link to classical design principles ensures a timeless aesthetic.
A standout feature is the hand-grained dial, crafted using the traditional “grené” technique. Michel Parmigiani explains, “We find these grained dials on antique marine chronometers and table clocks.” This process creates a refined texture that diffuses light, adding depth and character. Additionally, beveled edges enhance the seamless integration with the case.
Adding to its exclusivity, the Toric’s movements are crafted in 18K rose gold. The Calibre PF780 and PF361 exhibit intricate finishes such as Côtes de Fleurier and skeletonized bridges, showcasing the brand’s mastery of fine watchmaking.
True Test of Time
In the realm of watch certifications, the Fleuritest emerges as a unique and rigorous standard, embodying the pinnacle of precision and craftsmanship. Introduced by the Fleurier Quality Foundation in 2004, this certification evaluates timepieces through a holistic lens, combining technical accuracy, aesthetic excellence, and durability.
Unlike other certifications such as COSC or the Geneva Seal, which focus on specific aspects of watchmaking, the Fleuritest scrutinizes fully assembled watches in conditions simulating everyday use. Its methodology includes a 24-hour robotic simulation of wrist movements, testing timepieces for a stringent accuracy range of 0 to +5 seconds per day. Additionally, it emphasizes authenticity, requiring all components, including the movement, to be entirely Swiss-made.
This certification, which "represents total Swissness, superlative decoration, exceptional reliability and uncompromising precision proven in simulated real-world conditions," according to the Fleurier Quality Foundation, highlights Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud's commitment to excellence.
The brand applies this standard to its renowned models, including the Chronomètre FB 2RE, celebrated for its grand feu enamel dial and remontoir d’égalité; the FB RS, a skeletonized regulator featuring a tourbillon; and the FB 3SPC, distinguished by its cylindrical hairspring.
Collectors value the Fleuritest as a mark of unparalleled quality, elevating Ferdinand Berthoud's creations to the highest echelons of haute horlogerie. The certification serves as a tangible assurance of precision and artistry, perfectly aligning with the legacy of Ferdinand Berthoud, a visionary whose influence continues to resonate in contemporary watchmaking.
