Can Two Models Really Conquer Six GPHG Categories?
Parmigiani Fleurier redefines GPHG with Tonda and Toric models. Breguet adds platinum to Classique; Audemars, Richard Mille, and Chanel bring bold designs; Glashütte Original offers cosmic allure.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Parmigiani Fleurier at GPHG 2024: Can Two Models Really Conquer Six Categories?
Imagine the confidence it takes to enter six watches in the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, across six completely different categories! Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t just pushing limits; it’s reshaping its image in the world of haute horlogerie, and with the GPHG approaching, they’re making a bold statement with just two model lines—the Tonda and the Toric. Pretty smart, right?
Since 2020, Parmigiani’s journey to the top has been anything but ordinary. First, they adapted to the creation of the GPHG Academy, a massive group of nearly 700 industry experts that now whittles down the year’s best watches. Then in 2021, the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO supercharged the brand’s strategy, focusing on precision and design like never before. This has led to a whopping 18 pre-selected watches over the past three years. That’s some serious consistency in an industry where trends come and go faster than a ticking second hand.
The magic lies in their simplicity—just the Tonda and the Toric, but spread across a wide array of categories. You’ll find them in everything from Sports to Ladies' Watches, to intricate Calendar and Chronograph pieces. It’s a minimalistic approach that’s dominating in the most maximal way possible!
Could Breguet’s Classique Line Get Any More Elegant?
We delve into a watchmaking marvel with Breguet’s newest additions to its timeless Classique line, the references 5177 and 7787, now graced in platinum. Yes, for the first time, Breguet introduces this noble material into its Classique collection. Known for its bright, white sheen, platinum elevates these models beyond mere elegance. In a touch of daring sophistication, Breguet pairs this precious metal with black “Grand Feu” enamel dials—an artisanal feat that demands precision and patience, as the black enamel is notoriously unforgiving to work with.
Breguet’s legacy, founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet, is one of refined simplicity. His vision of highly legible, understated beauty is preserved here, with the iconic Breguet hands and numerals adorning the black enamel dial. The “Grand Feu” enamel technique, requiring multiple firings between 800 and 1,200 degrees Celsius, gives the dial its mesmerizing depth and sheen, making each detail—from the slender bezels to the powdered silver minute markers—stand out in understated luxury.
Powering these models are two distinct calibres: the Calibre 777Q for the 5177 and the Calibre 591 DRL for the moon-phase 7787, each ensuring precision and durability. True to tradition, these watches bear the Breguet “secret signature”—a discreet feature that, centuries ago, served as a hallmark of authenticity. While today’s watchmakers face fewer counterfeiting risks, spotting these hidden marks remains a thrill for discerning enthusiasts.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Audemars Piguet shines with a diverse array of watches in 2024
This year has been a creative whirlwind for Audemars Piguet, with a remarkable variety of standout pieces capturing attention across their collections. From the beloved Royal Oak series to the innovative [Re]Master line, the brand continues to push the boundaries of design, materials, and craftsmanship. Let’s take a closer look at five exceptional timepieces that have made waves so far.
First up is the Royal Oak Mini, a 23 mm frosted gold beauty introduced in May. Available in pink, yellow, and white gold, this quartz-powered watch proves that great things come in small packages, adding a fresh take on the iconic Royal Oak design.
Then there’s the [Re]Master02, which reimagines a rare 1960s chronograph. This latest edition features a matte sand gold case and a stunning “Bleu Nuit” dial, powered by the Calibre 7129. It’s a modern tribute to the brand’s rich history.
A true showstopper, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date debuted in September with Audemars Piguet’s innovative Chroma Forged Technology (CFT). This watch, with its striking blue luminescence and forged carbon case, is as tough as it is visually captivating.
For a touch of sparkle, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has unveiled two new 38mm models featuring diamonds and colored gemstones in intricate patterns, perfect for those with a penchant for luxury and precision.
Finally, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition rounds out the collection. Designed by the musician himself, this exclusive 200-piece timepiece is both artistically and mechanically stunning, boasting a unique "Crystal Sky" dial and a highly collectible perpetual calendar 5134 caliber.
How Does Richard Mille Engineer Watches Perfect for Sporting Legends?
Richard Mille takes watchmaking to the next level, crafting pieces specifically tailored to meet the unique demands of its sports ambassadors. This year, five standout collaborations showcase the brand’s innovation and dedication to performance.
For Formula 1, the RM 65-01 McLaren W1 channels high-speed power in a sleek, shock-resistant carbon TPT case. Inspired by McLaren’s W1 supercar, this 100-piece limited edition chronograph absorbs impacts, much like an engine under a car hood.
In the deep sea, world record freediver Arnaud Jerald relies on the RM 032, built to withstand pressure at 300 meters. Its ultra-legible skeleton chronograph and anti-shock device make it a rugged partner in the ocean’s depths.
Polo legend Pablo Mac Donough wears the RM 53-01, a tourbillon masterpiece fortified by braided steel cables to handle shocks beyond 5,000 G—a must for the intense impacts of polo.
Tennis star Rafael Nadal counts on his ultra-light RM 27-05 tourbillon, weighing just 11.5 grams but withstanding over 14,000 G, engineered to endure Nadal’s fierce serves.
Lastly, for cycling, Alain Prost sports the RM 70-01, complete with a mechanical odometer, a fitting tribute to his passion for distance rides.
NEW WATCHES
A Masterpiece in Pop Art and Haute Horlogerie
On December 7th, 2024, the TimeForArt auction by Phillips New York will present 25 extraordinary timepieces in support of contemporary art, with proceeds benefiting the Swiss Institute in New York. Among these unique creations, Chanel’s Boy.Friend TimeForArt is a standout—a vibrant homage to Gabrielle Chanel in Pop Art style.
This unique piece features Gabrielle Chanel depicted in vivid Grand Feu enamel in shades of pink, violet, and blue, crafted by the artisans at Cadraniers de Genève. The intricate Pop Art design required precise pad-printing with 12 separate stencils, each adding to Chanel’s iconic look with details like her pearl earrings and signature layered necklaces.
Encased in black-coated stainless steel with a bezel of 38 baguette-cut diamonds, this 37 x 28.6 mm watch combines luxury with art. It’s powered by a manual-winding calibre with a 42-hour power reserve and engraved on the back with “IT’S CHANEL TIME FOR ART! UNIQUE PIECE.” Estimated between $70,000 and $140,000, this timepiece is a perfect blend of style, art, and craftsmanship.
A Cosmic Vision of Time
Glashütte Original is taking watch enthusiasts on a celestial journey with its latest marvel, the PanoLunarInverse. Limited to only 200 pieces, this watch reimagines the moon phase display, presenting it as an intricate, miniature night sky against a shimmering aventurine (or goldstone) background. This exquisite, deep blue sky, reminiscent of the mysterious Venetian glass art of Murano, sets the scene for a moon phase like no other—complete with 3D laser-engraved lunar craters and mountains that add depth and wonder.
What makes the PanoLunarInverse so distinctive? Its inverse movement design, which reveals parts of the watch’s mechanics right on the dial side. The hour and minute display sits off-center, balanced by a beautifully rhodium-plated balance bridge with intricate guilloché, all housed within a sleek 42 mm platinum case. This model, the first by Glashütte Original to feature a moon phase on an inverse movement, is a true blend of tradition and innovation.
Equipped with the 91-04 automatic calibre, the PanoLunarInverse offers a 45-hour power reserve. The watch is water-resistant up to 5 bar and available on a sophisticated grey alligator leather strap or a blue recycled synthetic option, reflecting its thoughtful, sustainable design.
Can't wait to follow the GPHG live on WorldTempus!
It is amazing that Parimigiani has so many watches in the GPHG. Great piece by Olivier Muller.