A Look at 2024’s Most Daring Timepieces and GPHG’s Record-Breaking Year
Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Moon dazzles with its moonphase, URWERK’s daring UR-150 pushes design limits, Patek Philippe launches its new Cubitus Collection, and Zenith’s Pilot collab.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Is Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Moon the watchmaking masterpiece we’ve been waiting for?
Imagine sitting under a starry sky, and now imagine that on your wrist. That’s basically what Laurent Ferrier is offering with the new Classic Moon. This independent watchmaker, known for its timeless elegance, has just added a stunning moonphase complication to their iconic Galet Classic collection. It’s the first time the brand has played with a moonphase, and let me tell you, they’ve nailed it!
Now, what makes this moonphase extra special? It doesn’t just track the moon’s phases for the Northern Hemisphere but also for the Southern! Plus, the artistry here is ll find this beauty in two versions—stainless steel with a deep blue dial, and red gold with an opaline silver dial. Whether you’re a longtime fan or a first-timer, this piece might just steal your heart.
Is the UR-150 "Scorpion" from URWERK the most daring timepiece yet?
Let’s talk about something wild today—URWERK’s new release, the UR-150 "Scorpion"! If you thought you knew everything about URWERK’s cutting-edge designs, think again. Co-founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei are back, and they’re taking things to a whole new level with this one. The Scorpion is not just a watch; it’s an experience that gets under your skin in the best way possible.
What makes it so unique? It’s got that unmistakable URWERK avant-garde vibe, of course, but the real magic lies in its intricate mechanics and bold design. Trust me, once you get a closer look at this beast, there’s no going back.
GRAND PRIX D'HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE
Record participation marks a new era for the GPHG
This year’s edition of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has set a new benchmark, with more brands and watches competing than ever before. According to Raymond Loretan, President of the GPHG, this surge is a direct result of the 2020 paradigm shift that introduced the Academy, a body now crucial to the event’s operation. The Academy, consisting of 980 members including CEOs, journalists, collectors, and enthusiasts, has significantly broadened the competition's appeal, encouraging even smaller, emerging brands to participate. This democratization, as explained by Carine Maillard, GPHG Director, allows the competition to act as a springboard for lesser-known brands and a reputation-building platform for established names.
One of the most notable developments is the Academy’s power to suggest brands for the competition, providing a fresh dynamic that has led to record participation for 2024. With categories like the newly introduced "Time Only," which celebrates the elegance of simple, two- or three-hand watches, the GPHG continues to evolve in response to market trends. Another exciting addition is the Eco-Innovation prize, rewarding watches that adhere to sustainability, ethical, and traceability criteria, showcasing the GPHG’s commitment to responsible watchmaking.
Looking ahead, Loretan and Maillard emphasize the GPHG’s role in uniting the industry, with a focus on neutrality, universality, and solidarity. These principles ensure that the competition not only celebrates excellence but also fosters a sense of community within the global watch industry.
What does winning the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix mean for top watch brands?
Let’s dive into the prestigious Aiguille d’Or Grand Prix – the crown jewel of the watch industry awards. We had a chance to chat with some of the biggest names in the game, and trust me, the stakes are high for the 2024 edition of the GPHG!
For brands like Bulgari, Piaget, and MB&F, winning the Aiguille d’Or is the ultimate recognition of their craftsmanship, design, and innovation. Bulgari sees it as a symbol that elevates their already stellar reputation, not just in high jewelry, but in haute horlogerie as well. Piaget, with its rich history of setting records, views the award as a moving tribute to the artisans behind their masterpieces. And MB&F? They describe it as the top honor that validates years of pushing boundaries in design and mechanics.
So, what watches are in the running this year? Bulgari has three gems shortlisted, including the Octo Finissimo Ultra Platinum and the breathtaking Fenice High-Jewelry Secret Watch. Meanwhile, Piaget’s spotlight is on their milestone pieces: the Polo 79 and the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, both nominated for their technical brilliance and emotional significance. MB&F is betting on their HM11 Architect, a futuristic marvel that includes a mechanical thermometer and a rotating case – talk about innovation!
WATCH REVIEWS
The new Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection
Patek Philippe redefines the boundaries of watchmaking innovation with the launch of its new Cubitus Collection. Combining daring geometry with refined craftsmanship, this collection introduces a square-shaped case with rounded corners, a design both innovative and elegant. The star of the show is the Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Reference 5822P-001, powered by a revolutionary movement that boasts six patent applications. With a moon phase and a large date, this technical marvel in platinum represents a new level of sophistication in horological design.
Alongside it, Patek Philippe offers the “two-tone Cubitus Reference 5821/1AR-001”, a steel and rose gold beauty, exuding vintage charm with a blue sunburst dial. For those who seek something sportier, the “Cubitus Reference 5821/1A-001” in steel with an olive-green sunburst dial delivers athletic elegance at its finest. Each model boasts a horizontal relief-embossed dial, intricate finishing with alternating satin-brushed and polished surfaces, and a stunning integrated bracelet.
This collection truly showcases Patek Philippe's mastery of combining form and function, offering a unique blend of technical complexity and bold aesthetics. But don’t take our word for it—discover every intricate detail of the Cubitus collection for yourself.
Are Zenith’s new Pilot watches the perfect blend of style and functionality?
Hey there, watch enthusiasts! This week, we got our hands on two exciting new Zenith Pilot watches, designed in collaboration with Japanese bag maker Porter, and let me tell you, these timepieces are something special. The Zenith Pilot Automatic Porter and Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph Porter both come in a cool matt khaki-green ceramic case with striking orange details—Porter’s signature colors. And as a cherry on top, each watch comes with a matching Porter messenger bag! Stylish, right?
These limited-edition beauties (only 500 pieces each!) don’t just look good; they’re powered by Zenith’s famous El Primero movements, known for their precision and reliability. Whether you go for the automatic model or the chronograph, both are available with either a Cordura-effect rubber strap or a durable nylon fabric strap by Porter. Trust me, it’s a tough decision!
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Everything essential on chronographs since 2000
This book retraces the key players, patents, iconic watches, and trends for this complication since the year 2000. What truly sets it apart is its compelling narrative, accompanied by striking and precise illustrations. Indeed, this book delves into the groundbreaking technical innovations of modern chronographs and offers an in-depth look at these iconic timekeeping instruments all whilst being enjoyable and engaging to read. It showcases a selection of 50 indispensable chronograph watches, always beautifully illustrated.
