Watches & Wonders 2025, Bold Collaborations & Timeless Icons
Bvlgari x MB&F reinvent the Serpenti, Jaquet Droz honors the samurai, Louis Moinet revives the Valjoux 88, and we celebrate Cartier’s iconic Tank. Discover these creations reshaping watchmaking.
THIS WEEK’S NEW
The Bold Fusion of Bvlgari and MB&F
At first glance, Bvlgari and MB&F seem to exist in separate horological universes. One is a heritage-rich Italian luxury house, renowned for its sleek elegance and innovative craftsmanship. The other is an avant-garde watchmaker pushing the boundaries of timekeeping with its kinetic sculptures for the wrist. Yet, their second collaboration proves that opposites do more than just attract—they create groundbreaking timepieces.
Following the success of their first partnership in 2021, which gave birth to the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra, the two brands have now reimagined one of Bvlgari’s most iconic symbols: the Serpenti. Since its debut in 1948, the Serpenti has embodied transformation and eternal rebirth. Integrating it into MB&F’s world of high horology required a complete overhaul of both design and mechanics, resulting in a daring creation that seamlessly merges aesthetic brilliance with mechanical ingenuity.
The design process was anything but simple. As Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Director of Watch Design, recalls, “The design aspects were a pleasure to create,” yet the numerous sketches and 3D-printed prototypes tell a different story. Unlike a conventional round case, Serpenti sculptural form demanded careful consideration from every angle. A single design tweak could enhance one perspective while disrupting another, requiring countless refinements to achieve the perfect balance.
Once the design was finalized, manufacturing posed new challenges. The complex case features multiple sapphire crystals—including the snake’s eyes and a faceted rear section—each precisely machined and coated for optimal clarity. Achieving a water resistance of 30 meters within such an unconventional structure added another layer of difficulty. As Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder, explains, “The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit.”
Inside this sculptural case lies an equally unconventional movement, developed entirely in-house by MB&F. A key feature is the animation of the snake’s eyes—domed hour and minute displays that rotate, bringing the serpent to life. These ultra-thin aluminum domes are meticulously machined to reduce weight and are coated with hand-applied Super-LumiNova, ensuring the eyes glow in the dark. Powering this mechanical reptile is an oversized 14mm flying balance wheel, positioned beneath a three-dimensional bridge bearing both brands’ names.
This extraordinary timepiece is available in three limited editions of just 33 pieces each: titanium with blue domes, 18K rose gold with green accents, and black PVD-coated stainless steel with striking red eyes. Reflecting on this collaboration, Stigliani notes, “The aim was to have a totally different vision... I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon.”
With its fusion of technical mastery and artistic vision, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is a bold reinterpretation of a legendary icon—one that invites collectors to embrace its mesmerizing presence.
Jaquet Droz Unveils the Tourbillon Skelet Saphir – Bushidô
While many watchmakers are celebrating the Chinese New Year with serpent-inspired designs, Jaquet Droz has taken a different path, turning to Japan and the legacy of the samurai. The brand’s latest creation, the Tourbillon Skelet Saphir – Bushidô, is not just a watch—it is a tribute to the warrior spirit, blending artistry with technical mastery.
The design draws inspiration from the intimidating masks worn by Bushidô warriors, meant to instill both fear and admiration in their opponents. The mask on this timepiece is a sculpted gold appliqué, meticulously engraved and polished by hand. Its center is hand-painted, while the translucent enamel horns add an ethereal touch. No detail was overlooked, with the engraving in the red gold base emphasizing the facial features. An unprecedented technique in haute horlogerie, Murano glass beads are set into the mask’s surface, seamlessly integrated with the screws hidden within the design.
Beyond its striking aesthetics, the sapphire case is a technical achievement in itself. Entirely Swiss Made—a rarity in sapphire cases—it showcases Jaquet Droz’s commitment to craftsmanship. Measuring 42 mm in diameter, it is screwless, a feat that required extreme precision to ensure structural integrity and water resistance. Unlike traditional sapphire cases that rely on screwed inserts or adhesives, this construction relies solely on expertly pressed components.
Inside, the Tourbillon Skelet Saphir – Bushidô houses the 2625 SQ skeleton movement, a self-winding tourbillon caliber with an 8-day power reserve. Featuring a silicon escapement, it stands alongside the finest movements from Blancpain, Bovet, Daniel Roth, and Patek Philippe. Suspended between past and future, tradition and disruption, this timepiece captures the essence of Jaquet Droz’s vision—where craftsmanship meets bold innovation.
Inside Bulgari's Swiss Watch Empire
While Bulgari's heritage is deeply rooted in Rome, the brand has spent the last 34 years establishing itself as a serious player in Swiss watchmaking. With three key manufacturing sites in Neuchâtel, Le Sentier, and Saignelégier, the company has built a fully integrated production system that balances technical expertise with artistic craftsmanship.
Neuchâtel serves as the headquarters, housing the design studio, technical department, and assembly workshops. This location functions as the operational core, where ideas take shape and timepieces come to life. Meanwhile, in Le Sentier, nestled in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Bulgari focuses on movement development. The site produces highly specialized calibers, including the Piccolissimo BVL100—a miniature movement with 102 components weighing just 1.3 grams. In addition, this facility manufactures sophisticated complications such as minute repeaters, tourbillons, grand sonneries, and the ultra-thin Finissimo models.
Saignelégier, which recently underwent significant renovations, is dedicated to crafting cases and dials. Bringing these two processes together under one roof enhances efficiency and allows for greater flexibility in producing both large-scale collections and limited-edition designs. The facility works with an extensive range of materials, including stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, gold, platinum, bronze, ceramic, and carbon.
Beyond precision engineering, Bulgari’s métiers d’art department in Saignelégier is where artistry takes center stage. Here, artisans apply intricate decorative techniques such as hard stone marquetry, peacock feather inlays, micro-painting, and meticulous gem setting to elevate watch dials into miniature works of art.
By consolidating its operations across these three sites, Bulgari has achieved a vertically integrated system that fosters innovation and gives the brand complete creative control over its timepieces. This strategic approach ensures the continued evolution of its watchmaking expertise, reinforcing its reputation among collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.
New Watches
Louis Moinet Revives the Valjoux 88 with the Speed of Sound Chronograph
Few mechanical movements have left as lasting an impression as the Valjoux 88. Introduced in the late 1940s, this calibre powered some of the most prestigious chronographs of its time. Now, in celebration of its 20th anniversary, Les Ateliers Louis Moinet breathes new life into this revered mechanism with the Speed of Sound—a timepiece that fuses historical craftsmanship with contemporary innovation.
Limited to just 20 pieces, the Speed of Sound is an homage to Louis Moinet’s pioneering legacy in chronograph design. The brand, credited with inventing the first chronograph in 1816, continues to push horological boundaries under Jean-Marie Schaller’s leadership. While previous models relied on in-house movements or the Valjoux 7750, this release marks a return to an icon of mid-20th-century watchmaking. The Valjoux 88’s manual-winding, column-wheel chronograph is enhanced with a redesigned moonphase display, which features a hand-painted lunar motif glowing with luminescent paint. Adding to its celestial theme, a fragment of the Dhofar 457 lunar meteorite is embedded in the moonphase disc, aligning at 3 and 9 o’clock to indicate a full moon.
The dial also incorporates a rarely seen telemeter scale, used historically in military watches to measure the distance between a visual and auditory event. The small seconds and 30-minute chronograph counters are crafted from Aletai meteorite, while the deep black guilloché background, executed by artisan Yann von Kaenel, adds depth and intrigue.
Encased in Grade 5 titanium with a 40.7mm diameter, the watch balances vintage charm with modern refinement. The transparent case back reveals the decorated Valjoux 88, with gilded bridges, polished bevels, and a 2.5 Hz balance wheel. Priced at CHF 50,000, this exclusive timepiece is a testament to Louis Moinet’s commitment to blending heritage with avant-garde artistry.
A Dial Inspired by Haute Couture: Czapek & Cie Unveils the Promenade Plissé
Czapek & Cie introduces an innovative dial concept with the Promenade Plissé, a timepiece that draws inspiration from the world of fashion. Launched at Watches and Wonders 2024, this model redefines the idea of a modern, stylish watch that transcends traditional gender categories.
Designed in a sleek 38mm case, the Promenade embodies understated elegance and a playful sophistication. At the heart of its design is the unique Plissé dial, featuring an asymmetrical layout where the small seconds counter at 4:30 creates a sense of dynamic movement. The textured dial mimics the effect of pleated fabric, achieved through an advanced stamping process developed in collaboration with Metalem. The result is an interplay of light and shadow that gives the illusion of motion as the watch catches different angles of light.
Xavier de Roquemarel, CEO of Czapek & Cie, reinforces the brand’s philosophy: “We have always believed that gender divisions in watchmaking are largely artificial. Beauty and creativity unite men and women; making a beautiful watch cannot be reduced to a gender split. A beautiful watch will please men and women equally, in the same way that a beautifully tailored smoking [tuxedo suit] looks equally wonderful on men and women.”
The Plissé dial is available in three refined tones: Ivory, Pearl White, and Rose. The latter is paired with a Milanese mesh steel bracelet for a seamless fusion of texture and elegance. Production of each color is limited to just 18 pieces, ensuring exclusivity.
Functionality remains pure and minimalistic, with fine, semi-skeletonized arrow-shaped hands and applied indexes that integrate seamlessly within the pleated contours. The indexes feature diamond-cut angles to enhance light reflection, further amplifying the dial’s visual depth.
Beneath the dial, the timepiece is powered by a micro-rotor movement derived from Czapek’s in-house SXH5 caliber. The movement’s architecture has been reimagined to align with the dial aesthetics, ensuring a perfect balance of technical refinement and artistic craftsmanship. The case itself is a modern evolution of Czapek’s iconic Quai des Bergues, featuring recessed, sand-blasted sides, a curved crown guard, and a slim, rounded bezel.
The Promenade Plissé will be available through Czapek’s official retailers, the Geneva boutique, and online at Czapek.com, with deliveries beginning in early 2026.
Must-see this week
Can You Crack H. Moser & Cie.’s Ultimate Watch Treasure Hunt?
Right now, the WorldTempus editorial team is caught up in a mix of excitement and frustration. H. Moser & Cie. has launched an elaborate treasure hunt, and the challenge is tougher than expected. This interactive experience invites participants to search across the brand’s website and various online platforms for answers to cryptic questions.
The competition kicked off with two tricky questions, and speed is key. While multiple attempts are allowed, only the fastest participants will secure the best prizes. The following clues dropped on Friday, February 7, 2025, followed by the final one on Wednesday, February 12.
This treasure hunt cleverly introduces H. Moser & Cie.’s latest campaign featuring fictional photographer Dante T. Eustis. His mission? To track down rare H. Moser timepieces in bustling metropolises. The campaign’s narrator, a distinguished British voice, creates an atmosphere reminiscent of Sir David Attenborough guiding viewers through a wildlife expedition—except this time, the elusive species is a luxury watch.
H. Moser & Cie. has built a reputation for playful innovation. In 2016, the brand turned heads with the Swiss Alp Watch, a mechanical timepiece with an unmistakable resemblance to the Apple Watch. Then came the 2017 Swiss Mad Watch, featuring a case crafted from actual Swiss cheese. In 2018, the Swiss Icons Watch, a bold mashup of legendary designs, was unveiled at SIHH—only to be pulled the next day after making waves in the industry. More recently, the brand collaborated with Studio Underd0g on a Passion Fruit-themed watch.
With this treasure hunt, H. Moser & Cie. once again proves that watchmaking doesn’t have to be overly serious. By encouraging enthusiasts to explore their digital world, the brand is fostering engagement while keeping the thrill alive. If you think you have what it takes, now is the time to jump in and test your watch knowledge!
Get Ready for an Unforgettable Watches and Wonders 2025!
The highly anticipated Watches and Wonders Geneva is returning from April 5 to 7, promising an immersive watchmaking experience like never before. With 60 prestigious brands, including six newcomers—Christiaan van der Klaauw, Genus, Kross Studio, MeisterSinger, Armin Strom, and HYT—this edition is set to be an unmissable celebration of horology.
One of the biggest highlights this year is the ability for ticket holders to schedule appointments with their favorite brands via the Watches and Wonders website. These exclusive small-group presentations will allow visitors to try on the latest timepieces and interact directly with brand representatives. For those looking to make the most of their visit, guided tours will offer a curated journey through the exhibition, ensuring guests do not miss any key moments.
For an even more exclusive experience, the new Premium Experience package provides priority access to special activities, product showcases, conferences, VIP hospitality, and more.
Beyond watches, this year’s event will feature Longitude Zero, a captivating photography exhibition by Geneva-based photographer Fred Merz. The exhibit will trace time markers along the Greenwich Meridian, spanning eight countries and three continents, offering a unique perspective on the passage of time.
Younger visitors will also have plenty to explore. Inspired by last year’s attendance data, which showed that 20% of visitors were under 25, organizers have expanded career-focused opportunities. The LAB will showcase 13 innovative projects, including contributions from Lausanne’s renowned design school, ECAL, and even a culinary experience by Top Chef Danny Khezzar.
Meanwhile, the In the City program brings watchmaking into the heart of Geneva. At the Watchmaking Village on the Pont de la Machine, apprentices and trainees will present their expertise, while SwissSkills 2025 will hold live microtechnology competitions. The city will also come alive with extended boutique hours, brand activations, and a free concert on April 3.
Book lovers can indulge in watch-themed literary events at Payot bookstore, adding a cultural touch to the festivities.
With so much to explore, Watches and Wonders 2025 is shaping up to be the most dynamic edition yet. Secure your tickets now and prepare for an extraordinary watchmaking experience!
