Ressence Reinvents Time, Montblanc Cuts Out Oxygen, Richard Mille Sculpts in Sapphire, and Motorsports Thrill Geneva
This week on WorldTempus: Ressence redefines timekeeping, Montblanc ventures into oxygen-free watchmaking, Richard Mille sculpts in sapphire, Louis Vuitton honors the Samurai spirit.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Ressence Type 7: A Revolutionary Journey Beyond Traditional Watchmaking
Ressence’s Type 7 takes horology to a new dimension, offering an experience that transcends traditional watch design. During a week of intensive testing, the WorldTempus team discovered a timepiece that redefines both aesthetics and functionality.
The first impression is mesmerizing: a dial filled with oil, eliminating reflections to deliver a deep, almost liquid midnight blue surface. Yannick captures it best, describing it as "an astonishing dial, filled with oil... inviting us to rethink our reading – and our relationship – with time." This fluid visual presentation invites a completely new interaction with time.
Crafted entirely from lightweight titanium, the Type 7 offers exceptional comfort. Its integrated bracelet, praised by Camille for its "flexible bracelet, perfectly in tune with the times," features a deployant clasp with five adjustable positions, providing a practical advantage for everyday wear. The 41mm domed case maintains a strong yet elegant presence, complemented by a second 24-hour time zone and an oil temperature indicator.
Bertie emphasizes the hypnotic orbital display, describing it as a "miniature solar system on the wrist," where the subdials rotate seamlessly within the main dial. Although setting the time from the rotating caseback feels unfamiliar at first, it soon becomes instinctive, blending avant-garde engineering with ease of use.
The dial’s color-changing ability, shifting from muted Yale blue to vibrant sapphire depending on the light, adds a fascinating visual dynamism. James and Mathieu both highlight how the Type 7 masterfully combines sport-chic elegance with cutting-edge mechanics, making it a versatile choice for any situation.
More than just another blue watch, the Ressence Type 7 reimagines what wearing time can feel like. As Mathieu notes, "The Type 7 is a model that stands out, not only for its design but also for the way it redefines the experience of watchmaking."
Montblanc: 0 Oxygen, 100% Performance
Thanks to Montblanc, a bold new chapter in horology has been written — one that ventures into an environment completely free of oxygen. Under the guidance of Laurent Lecamp, CEO of Montblanc Watches and experienced mountaineer, the brand has introduced the 0 Oxygen territory, where innovation meets extreme conditions.
The concept took shape during a conversation between Lecamp and Reinhold Messner, Montblanc brand ambassador and legendary mountaineer. As Lecamp recalls, “Reinhold Messner is a Montblanc brand ambassador. He was the first mountaineer to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks — over 8,000 meters — without supplemental oxygen... I suggested to him that we create a watch with no oxygen inside. He said, ‘Well, it is a great idea, let us do it.’” This exchange led to a major breakthrough in watchmaking.
Montblanc achieved what had never been done before: a timepiece entirely devoid of oxygen, replaced instead with nitrogen, a stable and inert gas. Beyond preventing condensation during extreme temperature shifts — such as traveling from Switzerland to Singapore — the absence of oxygen slows the oxidation of components, significantly extending the longevity of the movement and preserving the oils and materials inside.
Lecamp elaborates, “Do you know why we age? Every time we breathe, oxygen enters our cells and begins to oxidize them. The same happens inside a watch... By eliminating oxygen, we drastically slow down that process. It is better for the movement, for the oils, for everything.”
This pioneering concept was put to the ultimate test when Lecamp and Simon Messner, Reinhold’s son, ran a marathon in Antarctica at minus 30°C. Wearing the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Exploration Limited Edition, they completed the race without any condensation or mechanical failure, while many other watches stopped working.
From the peaks of the Alps to the frozen landscapes of the South Pole, Montblanc’s 0 Oxygen models redefine what durability and performance mean in the most extreme conditions.
NEW WATCHES
RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire: A New Sculptural Vision
Merging the grandeur of gothic architecture with the fluidity of the ocean, Richard Mille presents the RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire, a timepiece where technical mastery meets artistic vision. This creation marks a significant milestone for the brand, as it is the first movement specifically designed for a sapphire case.
The RM 75-01 exists in three distinct interpretations. Two versions, limited to ten pieces each, combine clear and colored sapphire, while the third, fully transparent, is limited to fifteen pieces. Inspired by aquatic landscapes, each model embodies a specific seascape through carefully chosen hues. The clear sapphire case evokes the undulating surface of waves, complemented by a sea-green rubber strap. Other editions present lilac pink and sapphire blue casebacks, reminiscent of South Sea twilights and deep ocean depths.
Sapphire plays a central role, not only for its visual purity but also for its tactile warmth. With its crystalline clarity, the case reveals the movement’s intricate architecture, conceived as a mechanical sculpture. The skeletonized RM 75-01 caliber highlights sweeping arcs and dynamic forms, its flying tourbillon and barrel seemingly suspended within an architectural framework. The flange, designed like a ribbed gothic dome, rests on microblasted red gold pillars and satin-polished titanium, with SuperLuminova accents illuminating the structure.
The titanium baseplate, treated with 5N gold PVD, supports rhodium-plated wheels and displays a multilevel, triangular layout that balances strength and lightness. Bridges and lateral openings enhance depth and motion, underscoring the watch’s dynamic aesthetic.
Machining the sapphire case represents a technical triumph. With a hardness close to that of diamond, crafting a single case requires over 1,000 hours, including 40 days of continuous grinding and extensive polishing. Colored sapphire, achieved by incorporating metallic oxides, demands even greater precision to ensure flawless coloration.
The RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire captures a metaphysical balance, where the modernity of technical innovation meets the timelessness of natural and architectural inspiration.
The Art of Contrast
The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar returns in 2024 with a striking new variation, combining the refined warmth of 18-carat rose gold with the bold sophistication of a deep black dial. Introduced earlier in a steel case, this updated edition continues the legacy of the Chronomaster while presenting a contemporary interpretation of a historic design.
The triple calendar chronograph has long been a defining expression of Zenith’s El Primero. Although not widely known, the high-frequency automatic chronograph was originally developed to integrate triple calendar and moon phase functions, as early as 1970, when a series of 25 prototypes were made using the A386’s iconic round case design.
The 2024 Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar remains faithful to this heritage, offering a compact 38mm case with a raised box sapphire crystal, tapered lugs, and pump-style pushers. The dial, intuitively organized and highly legible, integrates calendar indications with the traditional three-register chronograph layout. The day and month are displayed symmetrically above the subdials at 11 o’clock and 2 o’clock, while the date appears at 4:30, and the moon phase is nestled within the 6 o’clock chronograph minute counter.
In this new rose gold version, the interplay between the case and dial elevates the visual impact. The hands, chronograph counters, and 1/10th of a second chapter ring reflect the gold tones, while SuperLuminova SLN C1 enhances nighttime legibility. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3610 calibre, offering a true 1/10th of a second chronograph function and a 60-hour power reserve, despite the additional calendar complications. The sapphire display back reveals the blue column wheel and open rotor adorned with the Zenith five-pointed star.
Presented on a black calfskin strap with an 18-carat rose gold folding clasp, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is now available at Zenith boutiques, online, and through authorized retailers worldwide.
Louis Vuitton Explores Samurai Spirit with the Tambour Bushido Automata
Louis Vuitton continues its bold exploration of artistic watchmaking with the Tambour Bushido Automata, a creation that bridges horological mastery and ancestral Japanese culture. Following the Tambour Carpe Diem and Tambour Opera Automata, this new masterpiece pays tribute to the Samurai and their profound Bushido code.
The Tambour Bushido Automata features the manual-winding LV 525 caliber, composed of 426 components and protected by two patents. It delivers a 16-second spectacle, animating five dynamic elements on the dial. Activated by a button, the Samurai mask reveals the jumping hour on the helmet’s forehead, while a katana sword retrograde hand sweeps to indicate minutes. A dramatic transformation follows: the Samurai’s serene face hardens into an expression of fierce determination, with one eye transforming from a rounded to a pointed Monogram Flower, and the jaw opening to display the word "Bushido" in vivid red Japanese characters.
The dial is a remarkable canvas for métiers d’art, blending engraving and enamelwork. Master engraver Dick Steenman and his team sculpted the kabuto helmet in rose gold and applied the calamine technique, revealing a subtle, burnt-like finish. The menpo, crafted in white gold using bas-relief engraving, adds further depth. Every element, from the knot to the katana and crown, reflects extensive craftsmanship, requiring 140 hours of engraving and 120 hours of enamelwork.
The artistry extends to the case, which features an elaborate red enamel scene of a Samurai journeying beneath Mount Fuji. Achieving this effect demanded hammering hundreds of tiny marks into the case, then filling them with translucent enamel through precise high-temperature firing.
Through extraordinary artistry and technical prowess, the Tambour Bushido Automata captures the enduring values of Bushido, offering a vivid narrative of strength, loyalty, and tradition.
WATCH REVIEWS
Watches & Wheels 2025
Watches & Wonders 2025 delivered an extraordinary celebration of motorsport and horology, offering visitors a thrilling immersion into high-speed culture. From legendary Formula One cars to hands-on racing challenges, the fair transformed Palexpo into a dynamic circuit of precision and performance.
TAG Heuer captured immediate attention by reclaiming a prime location at the intersection of the show. Displaying the McLaren MP4/4, famously driven by Ayrton Senna during the 1988 Brazilian Grand Prix, alongside a replica of the 2025 Oracle Red Bull Racing RB21, the booth embodied the spirit of competition under the theme “Designed to Win.” Celebrating its renewed role as Formula One’s official timekeeper, TAG Heuer introduced the Formula 1 Solargraph collection, featuring solar-powered models inspired by 1980s design and contemporary technology, timed with key Grand Prix events.
Meanwhile, IWC Schaffhausen brought a cinematic touch to Geneva. Partnering with Apple Original Films for an upcoming Formula One movie, IWC showcased two cars used in the production—both Formula 2 models adapted for film. One car displayed the technical camera equipment, while the other, dramatically presented as a crashed vehicle, revealed the engineering usually hidden from view. Enhancing the atmosphere, IWC introduced dramatic touches like simulated engine smoke, offering visitors an immersive experience.
Tudor also embraced the racing spirit with a pit stop challenge, where participants tested their speed in changing a Formula One wheel using a real wheel gun. The excitement continued at TAG Heuer’s Formula One Simulator challenge, offering a two-lap race around Monaco’s demanding circuit. Precision driving mirrored the fine skills required in watchmaking, with visitors striving for the fastest times.
By blending iconic cars, interactive activities, and new horological creations, Watches & Wonders 2025 proved that the bond between motorsport and high watchmaking is stronger—and more exhilarating—than ever.
