From Bulgari’s Ultra-Thin Records to H. Moser’s Bold Colors, and Classic Proportions: The Watches That Matter Now
This week, discover Moser’s colorful twist, Lange’s chiming marvel, Cartier’s icon, Bulgari’s ultra-thin feat, shrinking case sizes, Patek’s rare crafts, and L’Epée’s playful horological sculptures.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Edouard Meylan, the Pop CEO
At the most recent Watches & Wonders, H. Moser & Cie reaffirmed its status as one of the most creatively independent voices in contemporary watchmaking. While the Streamliner collection continues to thrive—with new dial shades expanding its already strong presence—the brand’s latest move was a vibrant and unconventional one.
During an exclusive conversation at the booth, the CEO introduced a surprising addition: the “Pop” collection, a series defined by bright, mineral-inspired colors and the use of ornamental stones. This unexpected turn reflects the Maison’s ongoing desire to challenge expectations and reframe the boundaries of traditional watch design.
Each model in the “Pop” series is produced in extremely limited quantities, heightening their sense of exclusivity. The Endeavour Small Seconds Concept is available in three lively shades, with only 28 examples made for each. The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept is even more limited, with only 8 watches per color. At the pinnacle of the collection sits a singular piece: the Endeavour Minute Repeater Tourbillon Concept, a unique creation that blends technical mastery with bold visual experimentation.
The absence of branding on the dials reinforces Moser’s minimalist philosophy, allowing the textures and colors of the stone to take center stage. This move away from the expected reflects the brand’s core identity: quiet audacity paired with uncompromising craftsmanship.
With the “Pop” collection, H. Moser & Cie once again demonstrates that innovation in watchmaking does not solely reside in technical complexity—it can be just as powerfully expressed through material choices and aesthetic daring. This new direction brings a playful and sophisticated energy to the brand’s portfolio, inviting collectors to rediscover time through a more expressive lens.
A. Lange & Söhne’s Minute Repeater Perpetual: Combination For Eternity
With nearly two centuries of heritage and 35 years of modern watchmaking behind it, A. Lange & Söhne continues to push the boundaries of mechanical innovation. The brand’s latest creation, the Minute Repeater Perpetual, combines two of horology’s most revered complications within a single, refined platinum case. Limited to just 50 pieces, the timepiece houses a hand-wound movement composed of 634 parts, marking the 75th calibre developed since the company’s modern rebirth in 1990.
Encased in 950 platinum and showcasing a glossy black enamel dial segmented into four parts, the watch is as visually striking as it is mechanically advanced. White gold surrounds the subdials, complementing the monochromatic depth of the design. “The combination of materials looks just gorgeous,” remarked Anthony de Haas, A. Lange & Söhne’s Director of Product Development.
Despite the skepticism surrounding platinum’s acoustic properties in chiming watches, the brand stands by its choice. “We do not share the opinion that platinum is not the best material for repeaters,” said Mr. de Haas, citing previous successes such as the Zeitwerk and Richard Lange minute repeaters. Revolution magazine echoed this sentiment, highlighting the cleaner and more focused sound quality achieved with platinum cases.
The watch also emphasizes functionality and safety. A built-in mechanism prevents the crown from being pulled while the chime is active, and vice versa. Additional innovations, such as a pause elimination system and hammer blockers, demonstrate A. Lange & Söhne’s dedication to refined engineering. These features address subtle but critical challenges, like the negative acoustic effects of rebounding hammers.
Completing the timepiece are hallmarks of German watchmaking: a three-quarter plate in untreated German silver, gold chatons, and a hand-engraved balance cock. As Mr. de Haas noted, “The Minute Repeater Perpetual is our first watch of its kind with a pure focus on minute repeater and perpetual calendar,” placing it among the manufacture’s most complex creations to date.
EVENTS
A New Benchmark in Thinness
Sovereign in the realm of ultra-thin watchmaking, Bulgari once again pushes boundaries with the introduction of the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Measuring a mere 1.85 mm in total thickness, this new timepiece marks the Roman brand’s tenth record in just over a decade—a remarkable journey that began in 2014 with its first ultra-thin tourbillon.
Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Watch Creation at Bulgari, states: “It’s not just about having the thinnest design, but achieving a precise execution that tells the story of the Octo Finissimo series, respecting the integrity of its distinctive aesthetic codes. Every detail, from the indexes to the tourbillon skeleton, testifies to our will for excellence.”
The 2025 model revisits Bulgari’s original tourbillon concept, refining it even further. Compared to the 1.95 mm movement introduced in 2014, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon now surpasses even the 2024 Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon. Its skeletonized architecture, introduced with earlier iterations, reveals the mechanism on the dial side—a significant evolution in both design and spatial optimization.
This exceptional thinness required a rethinking of traditional watchmaking. Bulgari developed an integrated structure where the case middle, main plate, and caseback form a unified body. To achieve this engineering feat, the brand introduced new patents and leveraged existing ones, including a specialized glass-fixing system that safeguards the movement.
To mitigate the risk of deformation in ultra-thin components, Bulgari selected high-resistance materials: tungsten carbide for the base plate and microblasted titanium for the case. The result is a watch that remains light yet structurally sound, reaffirming Bulgari’s mastery in merging elegance with cutting-edge technical achievements.
Over the past decade, each chapter in the Octo Finissimo story has redefined horological expectations. With the 2025 Ultra Tourbillon, Bulgari not only sets a new record but also reasserts its leadership in the art of ultra-thin watchmaking.
Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition
From April 5 to 26, 2025, Patek Philippe will open the doors of its Salons in Geneva for a special presentation of its Rare Handcrafts – The Contemporary Collection. This annual exhibition offers a rare glimpse into the Maison’s dedication to preserving and promoting Geneva’s decorative arts, bringing together over 80 meticulously crafted timepieces and objets d’art.
Each piece on display highlights the exceptional techniques that fall under the umbrella of Haut Artisanat, including guilloché, enameling, wood marquetry, engraving, and gemsetting. These intricate methods, some dating back centuries, are carried out by three expert artisans who will be present throughout the event, demonstrating their craft live for visitors. Their work not only reflects a profound respect for tradition but also shows how these skills remain vital and relevant in modern watchmaking.
What makes this exhibition particularly meaningful is its ephemeral nature. Every object featured is either unique or produced in extremely limited numbers and is already destined for private collections. The opportunity to view them all together, even briefly, is exceptionally rare. It offers a direct connection to the level of detail, precision, and artistry that defines the identity of Patek Philippe.
More than just an exhibition, this is a curated experience that underscores the importance of preserving artisanal excellence. It is a reminder that, beyond technical innovation, watchmaking can serve as a powerful medium for cultural heritage and creative expression. For those fortunate enough to visit, it is not only a journey through time, but through the soul of craftsmanship that continues to shape Patek Philippe’s legacy.
NEW WATCHES
The Jewellery Expressions of an Icon
Cartier reinterprets the iconic Panthère watch through a series of bold, refined, and imaginative designs. Blending graphic elements and intricate craftsmanship, the Maison unveils a timepiece that lies at the intersection of art and haute joaillerie. Neither wholly zebra nor entirely tiger, the Panthère adopts an abstract coat that evokes the untamed elegance of both creatures. This hybrid identity reflects Cartier’s creative spirit, captured in what the brand calls the “vision of Cartier Magicien.”
From the dial to the bracelet, animal motifs are rendered in a stunning visual language. Vibrant combinations of black and golden-brown lacquer are brought to life through contrasts and textures, punctuated by sparkling pavé diamonds and vivid orange and yellow spessartites. The result is a rich and dynamic aesthetic, celebrating abundance and radiant color.
Cartier’s mastery in jewelry-making is unmistakable in this new iteration. The detailed lacquer work, meticulously applied by hand and fired at high temperatures, exemplifies the craftsmanship of the Maison des Métiers d'Art. The snow-set dial, encrusted with 145 brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhances the watch’s allure. Its bracelet, entirely adorned with 314 brilliant-cut diamonds and 86 spessartites, required over 110 hours to complete. Each link is individually polished and set, forming a fluid cascade of luminous gems.
Additional variations in rose or yellow gold bring a lighter touch, featuring semi-paved designs that maintain the essence of the original while offering a more delicate interpretation. A soft gradient of diamonds flows across the bracelet, while a white dial and diamond-set bezel introduce a contemporary contrast to the warm-toned case. These versions uphold Cartier’s tradition of elegance, balancing heritage with modern sophistication.
In this latest transformation, the Panthère watch becomes more than a timepiece—it is a striking expression of artistry and innovation.
Small Diameter, Big Trend
Something quietly decisive took shape at Watches and Wonders this year. Across Palexpo’s exhibition halls, brands seemed to collectively embrace a single message: case diameters are shrinking, and not just as a passing novelty. The return to smaller dimensions is now a shared direction—one that reflects shifting tastes, market demands, and a deeper respect for watchmaking history.
This movement cannot be traced to a single cause. Is it a reaction against oversized, ostentatious timepieces? A reflection of renewed interest in vintage aesthetics, where 36 to 40 mm was once standard? Perhaps it is the influence of markets like Asia, where smaller sizes have long prevailed, or the preferences of seasoned collectors who rarely consider anything above 40 mm. Likely, it is all of these factors converging.
But rather than rehashing a list of compliant models, it is worth considering what this change represents. For many heritage brands, downsizing is not about stepping back—it is about coming full circle. Many of these watches are simply returning to proportions they once called standard decades ago. And though reissues could be dismissed as lacking originality, the reality is more nuanced. These are reinterpretations, not replicas. Modern movements, revised dials, reworked cases—each detail carefully considered.
Take IWC’s new Ingenieur. Now at 40 mm, with a fresh black dial and refined finishing, it feels both rooted in the 1970s and fully contemporary. Eberhard & Co.’s Contodat, redesigned at 39 mm, adds polish and proportion to an already classic form. Even Alpina goes all-in with the Heritage Tropic-Proof—faithful to its 1960s dimensions at just 34 mm, yet remarkably wearable.
Notably, even completely new 2025 collections are adhering to these restrained formats. Maurice Lacroix’s “Access” line debuts only in 36, 39, and 40 mm. Patek Philippe has resized its square Cubitus from 45 to 40 mm. And Zenith’s new G.F.J. lands directly at 39 mm. Alongside this trend toward reduction comes a simplification in complications—most new models are pared down to three hands and a date.
In 2025, smaller is not just a trend. It is a thoughtful shift—a quiet recalibration of what modern watch design looks and feels like.
NEW CLOCK
Time Isn’t Just Counted — It Is Celebrated!
L’Epée 1839 has unveiled Time Tales, a bold reinterpretation of the traditional Swiss cuckoo clock, blending mechanical sophistication with a touch of nostalgic charm. Developed entirely in-house, this kinetic object contains 1,241 components and features a movement composed of three distinct mechanisms that operate in harmony or independently—an impressive mechanical architecture disguised within a playful design.
At the top of each hour, the cuckoo emerges with its signature call, joined by a chiming mechanism that marks the hours and half-hours. Simultaneously, a music box begins to play while a dual automaton animates whimsical figurines, turning every time indication into a small theatrical performance. These figurines—crafted by Jason Sarkoyan and Martin Bolo—embody the wisdom of the Four Wise Monkeys and are available in three versions: dogs, birds, and monkeys.
The design draws inspiration from vintage cartoons and the visual language of slapstick. Its rocket-shaped aluminum cabinet, finished in polished black and silver, recalls the exaggerated chaos of animated classics. Two matchstick-shaped hands mark the time, a nod to the playful, unpredictable nature of those childhood adventures.
A key innovation lies in the embedded mechanical “computer” that grants full manual control over the clock’s various features. Three suspended pulleys and a hidden lever enable users to mute specific functions, replay the previous hour’s sequence, or activate a silent mode. The latter can be programmed through a dial featuring two elegant pointers, with a discreet symbol beneath the 12:00 numeral indicating when silence is active.
Time Tales is more than a decorative object. It is a precisely engineered, hand-assembled mechanical system that invites personal interaction. It encourages its owner to reflect, take a pause, and approach time with curiosity and joy—reminding us, through movement and melody, that time can be measured not only in hours, but in moments of wonder.
