OMEGA’s Bronze Gold, Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Trio & Breitling’s Icy Navitimer – A Month of Bold Innovations
This week on WorldTempus: OMEGA innovates, Louis Vuitton pushes boundaries, Breitling refines the Navitimer, Piaget masters ultra-thin, while Perrelet and BA111OD make bold moves.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
OMEGA Unveils the New Bronze Gold Diver 300M
OMEGA continues to push the boundaries of material innovation and watchmaking excellence with the latest addition to its Seamaster Diver 300M collection. In 2025, the brand introduces a new series crafted in its exclusive Bronze Gold alloy, blending durability, vintage appeal, and exceptional performance.
Inspired by the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition from No Time to Die, these new models echo key design elements, including the signature mesh bracelet, oxalic anodized aluminum bezel ring and dial, and domed sapphire crystal. The result is a watch that balances heritage aesthetics with modern craftsmanship.
At the heart of this release is OMEGA’s Bronze Gold, a proprietary alloy containing 37.5% gold (hallmarked as 9K), along with palladium and silver. This unique composition ensures remarkable corrosion resistance while preventing verdigris oxidation, allowing the metal to develop a refined patina over time without compromising its integrity.
The collection debuts with two 42 mm models, both featuring a burgundy oxalic anodized aluminum bezel ring with a vintage Super-LumiNova diving scale. The sandblasted aluminum dial, finished in matte black, is complemented by PVD 18K Bronze Gold hands and blackened indexes, both luminescent for optimal legibility. Additional details, such as the light brown OMEGA logo and name, add subtle contrast to the design.
Inside, the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 powers the watch, visible through the sapphire crystal caseback. Certified by METAS, this movement guarantees outstanding precision, magnetic resistance, and overall reliability.
With its vintage-inspired design, innovative materials, and high-performance movement, this latest Seamaster Diver 300M reinforces OMEGA’s legacy in professional diving watches.
Louis Vuitton Unveils Three Distinctive Tambour Timepieces
Louis Vuitton introduces three new Tambour watches, each with its own identity while drawing inspiration from the brand’s rich heritage. The Parisian trunk maker, known for its signature brown tones, incorporates these colors into two of the latest models, while the third takes a bold, vibrant approach.
The first, a yellow gold creation, stands out with 48 saffron-colored sapphires adorning its case. This specific hue is no coincidence—it mirrors the shade of Vuitton’s monogram leather. Unlike traditional gem-setting, these sapphires are placed along the side of the bezel, making them a subtle detail for the wearer. The dial further highlights this saffron tone, integrating sapphire-set hour markers alongside onyx elements. A small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock completes the refined composition. This exclusive timepiece is limited to just 30 pieces.
The second model showcases technical innovation with a focus on material. Crafted entirely from Vuitton brown ceramic, this Tambour presents an elegant interplay of textures and finishes. The ceramic case and bracelet are enhanced with rose gold inserts, while the bezel features three distinct treatments: a circular satin-finished top, polished edges, and sandblasted sides engraved with the "LOUIS VUITTON" name. Though not strictly limited, the complexity of production naturally limits its availability.
The final model takes a luxurious approach with a platinum case and bracelet, complemented by lateral gem-setting on the bezel. The hour markers form a "rainbow" of sapphires in shades of green, blue, violet, pink, fuchsia, orange, and yellow. At 40 mm in diameter and just 8.3 mm thick, this piece balances opulence with wearability. A hidden detail lies within the case back—a discreet 1.6 mm saffron sapphire, marking the presence of platinum, much like the diamond placement on certain Patek Philippe models. This vibrant creation is limited to 50 pieces.
With these three Tambour timepieces, Louis Vuitton blends tradition, craftsmanship, and innovation, reaffirming its unique place in high watchmaking.
NEW WATCHES
Breitling Releases the Navitimer B19 With an Ice-Blue Dial
For over 70 years, the Breitling Navitimer has been an unmistakable icon, renowned for its circular slide rule, notched bezel, and chronograph functionality. Now, this legendary timepiece reaches new heights with the introduction of the Caliber B19, Breitling’s first perpetual calendar chronograph movement. Originally released as part of a limited anniversary series, this caliber makes its full debut in a stunning Navitimer model featuring an ice-blue dial, a platinum bezel, and a 43 mm stainless-steel case.
Designed for pilots in 1952 and later embraced by style icons like Miles Davis and Serge Gainsbourg, the Navitimer was initially conceived as an essential aviation tool. Its slide rule allowed pilots to perform in-flight calculations, cementing its status as the first wrist-worn flight computer. While its roots are in aviation, the Navitimer’s influence has extended far beyond the cockpit, becoming a symbol of technical refinement and timeless design.
This latest iteration introduces Breitling’s exclusive Caliber B19, a self-winding movement that not only powers the chronograph but also integrates a perpetual calendar complication. Displaying the day, date, month, and moonphase, the B19 requires only minor adjustments to maintain accuracy for a full century. Breitling CEO Georges Kern states, “It takes a lot for us to use the word icon, but the Navitimer has earned it. Combined with the perpetual calendar chronograph movement, the B19 is a tour de force, never missing a beat for a full century. It’s a watch that will keep time for generations.”
The Caliber B19, designed and assembled at Breitling’s Chronométrie in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, builds on the brand’s dedication to in-house movements. It underwent rigorous testing, including a 16-year aging simulation with over 100,000 crown winds, 3,456,000 weight turns, and 60,000 shocks at 500G, ensuring its resilience. With a 96-hour power reserve and COSC certification, this movement represents Breitling’s pursuit of mechanical excellence.
For the first time outside a limited edition, the Navitimer now pairs its unmistakable design with a movement built to last for generations.
A bold touch of pink redefines Perrelet’s Turbine collection
Perrelet continues to push creative boundaries with the latest addition to its Turbine Titanium 41 collection: the Turbine Pink Flamingo. This new model embraces a striking shade of pink, evoking the vibrant feathers of its namesake bird and capturing the lively, exotic essence of Miami’s iconic aesthetic.
The watch retains the distinctive design elements of the Turbine EVO while introducing a contemporary 41mm black DLC-coated titanium case. This lightweight and durable material enhances comfort, complemented by an ergonomic profile that ensures a snug fit even on smaller wrists. Water-resistant up to 10 ATM, the case features a flat bezel and fluted crown, along with the signature vertical grooves extending seamlessly to the case back.
At the heart of the timepiece lies Perrelet’s signature 12-blade turbine, positioned above a sub-dial featuring an ever-changing motif. As the turbine spins, it reveals the dynamic pink flamingo design beneath, creating a captivating visual effect.
Beneath the surface, the watch is powered by Perrelet’s in-house P-331-MH automatic caliber. This self-winding movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Precision is guaranteed, as the movement holds both COSC and Chronofiable® certifications. The case back reveals the movement’s meticulous finishing, with circular graining on the bridges and an open-worked rhodium-plated oscillating weight bearing Perrelet’s emblem.
A bold statement piece, the Turbine Pink Flamingo blends technical expertise with a playful yet sophisticated aesthetic, making it an ideal choice for those who appreciate unconventional design.
Is the Leica ZM 12 the Ultimate Expression of Minimalist Watchmaking?
Leica expands its horological expertise with the launch of the ZM 12 collection, a refined evolution of its predecessor, the ZM 11. This latest addition embraces the brand’s signature minimalist aesthetic while introducing a more compact 39 mm case size. Available in stainless steel or titanium, the ZM 12 maintains a strong design identity, featuring a dual-layered dial that plays with light and shadow to create depth and visual intrigue. A small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock enhances the symmetry, while Swiss Grade A Super-LumiNova ensures excellent readability in various lighting conditions.
At the heart of the ZM 12 is the Leica Calibre LA-3002, an automatic movement developed in collaboration with Chronode, a respected name in Swiss watchmaking. The movement houses 38 jewels, operates at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, and delivers a precision range of -4/+6 seconds per day. A power reserve of approximately 60 hours ensures reliable performance.
The collection introduces four distinct models: ZM 12 Steel Blue Orange, ZM 12 Steel Silver Grey, ZM 12 Steel Olive, and ZM 12 Titanium Chocolate Black. Each watch can be customized with interchangeable straps, crafted from either a durable technical textile with an intricate beige pattern or high-quality rubber featuring a bold orange hue and an inverted "Clou de Paris" pattern.
Leica’s reputation for innovation and craftsmanship extends beyond photography, with the ZM 12 embodying its dedication to precision and timeless design.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
The Origins of the Altiplano
Piaget’s mastery of ultra-thin watchmaking dates back to its foundation in 1874. However, the name Altiplano only emerged in 1998. Before that, the brand had already established itself as a pioneer in crafting exceptionally thin movements. A 1948 advertisement even showcased an early Altiplano model with the tagline: "The only ultra-thin automatic watch in the world, movement thickness: 2.3 mm."
The Altiplano officially joined in 1998, marking the birth of a dedicated line for Piaget’s ultra-thin timepieces.
Piaget’s expertise in crafting remarkably slim movements is rooted in its early specialization in precision watchmaking. By the 1920s, the brand was already producing pocket watch movements measuring just 2.4 mm thick. This expertise led to the development of two landmark calibers: the 9P manual-winding movement and the groundbreaking 12P automatic, which, at just 2.3 mm, featured an innovative micro-rotor. These movements laid the foundation for what would become the Altiplano collection.
Since 1998, the Altiplano has become synonymous with refinement and minimalism, evolving into a cornerstone of Piaget’s identity. The brand has continuously pushed the boundaries of thinness, achieving record-breaking feats.
As Piaget continues to refine this expertise, the coming years promise even more groundbreaking ultra-thin calibers, further cementing the Altiplano as an icon in haute horlogerie.
COSC: The Silent Guardian of Swiss Watchmaking Excellence
The Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) is stepping into the spotlight. As an independent and neutral organization, it has long been the benchmark for chronometric precision, ensuring that only the most accurate Swiss watches earn the prestigious "Certified Chronometer" designation. Now, COSC is expanding its reach, aiming to educate a wider audience about its vital role in the industry.
What makes COSC unique is its unwavering independence. No watch brand or group can influence the testing process, and the certification fees remain the same for all, ensuring fairness between niche and established manufacturers. This commitment to neutrality has secured its reputation among the 60 Swiss brands that rely on its certification as a mark of quality. Despite its significance, only 15% of all Swiss watches produced, and 40% of exported mechanical wristwatches, undergo COSC testing—a testament to the rarity and exclusivity of the label.
Behind these statistics lies an impressive operation. With three laboratories in Bienne, Le Locle, and St-Imier, COSC employs 160 experts who work tirelessly, seven days a week, testing over 2.4 million watches in 2024 alone. Each test lasts between 12 and 20 days, ensuring the highest standards are met.
Traditionally recognized within the industry, COSC is now embracing a more visible role. Its newly designed website provides greater transparency into its processes and allows brands to access individual certification results. By adapting to modern expectations while upholding time-honored precision, COSC continues to solidify its position as a cornerstone of Swiss watchmaking.
