Impulse to Titanium and New Jewelry Magazine Coming Soon
This week on WorldTempus: Louis Moinet, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, and MB&F push boundaries with titanium, ceramic, and Gold Quartz TPT®. Piaget shapes gold artistry as GMT unveils Gem-T.
THIS WEEK’S NEW
Louis Moinet Gives an Impulse to Titanium
In 2023, Louis Moinet introduced Impulsion, a groundbreaking timepiece combining a tourbillon and a chronograph—two major horological inventions, brought together for the first time by the brand. Initially available only in red gold, Impulsion now returns in a full-titanium version, offering a modern, lightweight alternative while remaining an exclusive limited edition.
This watch is deeply connected to its predecessor, Memoris, which redefined chronograph design by placing its entire mechanism on the dial side. A decade after its debut, Memoris remained unchanged, retaining its place as one of the finest chronographs available. The logical next step? Enhancing it with a tourbillon. Thus, Impulsion was born.
While other brands have long combined these complications—Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, and Richard Mille among them—Louis Moinet had yet to unite the two, despite its historical ties to both. The result is a watch with a distinct identity, featuring a visible chronograph mechanism at 12 o’clock with deep black onyx inserts. The monopusher at 2 o’clock adds to its character, maintaining a slight asymmetry that enhances its visual appeal.
Beyond aesthetics, the movement offers outstanding performance. Equipped with a double barrel, it provides a four-day power reserve. The tourbillon, positioned at 6 o’clock, was developed in collaboration with Concepto, a trusted partner of Louis Moinet for nearly two decades. The redesigned upper bridge reflects the expertise seen in limited editions such as Métiers d’Art and Starman.
With the shift to titanium, accessibility improves—at least in theory. While priced lower than its gold counterpart at 110,000 CHF before taxes, availability remains scarce. Only 12 pieces will be produced, making this watch as rare as it is innovative.
A New Chapter in European Jewelry Publishing Begins with Gem-T
Behind the scenes at GMT Publishing, a new project is taking shape—one that promises to shine as brightly as the creations it will showcase. In June 2025, the company will launch Gem-T, a quarterly magazine dedicated entirely to jewelry. Designed for a European audience, this trilingual publication will offer a fresh perspective on the many facets of jewelry design, from artistic innovation to craftsmanship.
The growing interest in fine jewelry has driven GMT Publishing to develop a magazine that caters to both enthusiasts and industry professionals. Unlike any other publication currently available, Gem-T will maintain a European scope while being accessible to a broad audience, thanks to its regular release schedule.
At the helm of this new venture is a dynamic duo of industry experts. Editor-in-Chief Marie de Pimodan, widely regarded as one of Switzerland’s top writers, brings extensive experience in luxury media. Alongside her, Sales and Marketing Director Julie Comar Picot contributes a deep knowledge of the luxury sector, gained through her work in Paris, Dubai, Geneva, and the United States, including positions at LVMH and Richemont.
The magazine is already generating excitement among both readers and journalists. Some of the most talented writers in the field are eager to contribute, ensuring that Gem-T reflects the diversity and creativity that define the world of jewelry. To further enhance its artistic vision, the publication has partnered with a Paris-based artistic director and the renowned Cinq Etoiles Productions agency, which operates studios in Milan, Paris, and the United States.
With a strong legacy in watchmaking, yachting, and travel media, GMT Publishing is now expanding into jewelry, reaffirming its commitment to delivering high-quality editorial content. As the jewelry industry continues to thrive, Gem-T is set to become a must-read for those passionate about the art of adornment.
NEW WATCHES
How Does Audemars Piguet Keep Reinventing Ceramic?
Audemars Piguet continues to push the boundaries of ceramic craftsmanship, staying true to its philosophy of refinement and durability. Without resorting to extravagant colors or experimental techniques, the brand introduces two new Royal Oak Offshore models, demonstrating a masterful command of this challenging material.
To mark its 150th anniversary, the Manufacture unveils a duo of self-winding chronographs, each offering a distinct aesthetic and mechanical configuration. The first, a 43mm model, is adorned in green ceramic, featuring a matching dial, bezel, bracelet, and push-piece guards, with a subdial arrangement at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The second, at 42mm, comes in full black ceramic, opting for a 12, 6, and 9 o’clock subdial layout. These structural differences extend to their movements—the larger model houses the Caliber 4401, while the smaller edition is powered by the Caliber 4404. The common denominator? An expert application of ceramic.
Audemars Piguet has a long history with this material, dating back to 1986. Yet, as Thibaut Le Loarer, Head of Research, explains, “It took us ten years of development for ceramic to be truly elevated and earn its place alongside steel, titanium, and carbon.” The brand's approach differs from other industry leaders, such as the Swatch Group or LVMH, by treating ceramic as an equal to precious metals rather than an alternative.
This philosophy is evident in the meticulous finishing of the new Royal Oak Offshore models. The black edition’s full-ceramic bracelet, for example, showcases an intricate contrast between brushed central links and polished bevels—achieved through a decade of research and development. By integrating ceramic into its identity with unparalleled precision, Audemars Piguet proves once again that material innovation is not just about novelty, but about timeless excellence.
The New Serpenti Is Part Snake, Part Supercar
MB&F and Bvlgari have once again joined forces to create a horological masterpiece—this time, a trio of Serpenti timepieces that seamlessly blend Bvlgari’s signature aesthetic with MB&F’s avant-garde mechanics. These limited-edition models reinterpret the legendary serpent motif in an entirely new form, merging Bvlgari’s jewelry-making expertise with MB&F’s technical ingenuity.
Their first collaboration in 2021 resulted in the FlyingT Allegra, a striking fusion of gemstones and high horology. Now, the Serpenti takes center stage, shedding its traditional feminine elegance to embrace MB&F’s mechanical universe. The challenge was significant: translating the flowing curves of the Serpenti into MB&F’s bold, technical design language. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s director of watchmaking creation, described the process as "a pleasure to create," yet it required hundreds of sketches and multiple 3D prototypes to refine the final design.
The watch’s biomorphic case, a marvel of engineering, integrates five sapphire crystal windows that reveal the intricate movement inside. Achieving both aesthetic harmony and structural integrity was no small feat, especially given the 30-meter water resistance. Maximilian Büsser, MB&F’s founder, emphasized that “the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement.”
True to MB&F’s signature innovation, the Serpenti displays time through two rotating domes—hours on the left, minutes on the right—both treated with Super-LumiNova for visibility in the dark. The flying balance wheel represents the serpent’s brain, while two crowns, cleverly integrated into the lugs, handle winding and time-setting. The movement, comprising 310 meticulously hand-finished components, is visible from the case back, along with a 45-hour power reserve indicator.
From the front, the watch mesmerizes with its snake-like gaze. From the side, automotive influences become apparent—the sleek case resembles a streamlined car body, while the crowns mimic wheels and the stepped sapphire windows evoke aerodynamic flaps.
Three versions of this mechanical Serpenti have been released, each limited to 33 pieces: one in rose gold with green time domes, another in grade 5 titanium with blue domes, and a third in black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes.
With this daring transformation, the Serpenti evolves into a mechanical marvel, reaffirming both brands' commitment to pushing creative and technical boundaries.
Piaget’s New Limelight Gala Creations
For over half a century, the Limelight Gala collection has embodied Piaget’s artistry, blending sophisticated design with technical expertise. Defined by its sensual curves, asymmetrical lugs, and seamless integration of gemstones and precious metals, this iconic line continues to evolve. This season, Piaget unveils two new Limelight Gala models, featuring a hand-engraved gold motif that highlights the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship in watchmaking, jewelry, and goldsmithing.
Yves G. Piaget famously stated, “A watch is first and foremost a piece of jewellery.” Since its foundation in 1874 in La Côte-aux-Fées, Piaget has been renowned for its mastery of ultra-thin movements, which allowed for extraordinary dial and case decorations. By the early 1960s, the brand embraced full vertical integration, pioneering innovative techniques such as ornamental stone dials and the intricate Decor Palace finish. Introduced in 1973, the Limelight Gala has since undergone numerous reinterpretations, all while preserving its signature aesthetic.
The latest editions reaffirm Piaget’s title as the “House of Gold,” a distinction earned in 1957 when the brand committed to working exclusively with precious metals. Unlike the previous Decor Palace or snake-scale effects, these models feature a new engraved pattern that creates a wavy texture across the dial and bracelet. This intricate motif, reminiscent of the fluid movement of silk gowns, is crafted by a single master engraver over two days to ensure flawless continuity from clasp to case.
One model showcases the brilliance of gold, adorned with 42 white diamonds totaling 4.74 carats. The second, the Mesmerizing Burgundy edition, highlights Piaget’s expertise in color. Its dial, hand-engraved before being covered in rich Grand Feu enamel, is enhanced by a gradient of diamonds, pink sapphires, and deep red rubies. This seamless gemstone arrangement recalls the bold hues of vintage Piaget timepieces, echoing the deep red tones of ruby-root stone.
These watches pay tribute to the glamorous 1970s Piaget Society, where figures like Gina Lollobrigida, Elizabeth Taylor, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis embodied the Maison’s spirit. With their refined aesthetics and exquisite craftsmanship, these new Limelight Gala creations reinforce Piaget’s enduring legacy of innovation and elegance.
RM 74-02 Automatic Tourbillon in Gold Quartz TPT®
Within the Richard Mille workshops, watchmaking reaches new heights, merging cutting-edge materials with artistic craftsmanship. This pursuit of innovation has led to the integration of gold leaf into Quartz TPT®, resulting in a material that embodies both resilience and timeless beauty.
The RM 74-02 Automatic Tourbillon is a testament to this philosophy, encased in Gold Quartz TPT®, a composite developed exclusively for Richard Mille. This material is the result of years of research with Swiss specialist North Thin Ply Technology. Ultra-thin layers of quartz fibers are meticulously stacked and heated under high pressure, creating a durable yet refined structure. Embedded within this composition, delicate 22-carat 5N red gold leaves shimmer through the translucent quartz, producing a captivating interplay of light. This blend of elements showcases a delicate equilibrium between modern technology and traditional craftsmanship.
At the core of the RM 74-02 lies the CRMT5 Caliber, an in-house automatic tourbillon movement crafted from 18K 5N red gold for the baseplate and 18K 3N yellow gold for the bridges. The movement’s architectural openwork design highlights the tourbillon regulator, ensuring high precision. Powering the watch is a variable-geometry rotor made of red gold and platinum, efficiently managing energy transmission through involute gear teeth. The fast-winding barrel provides up to 50 hours of uninterrupted performance. Hand-finishing techniques, including beveled edges and intricate polishing, refine the movement’s visual appeal.
Following the path set by the Gold Carbon TPT® version, the RM 74-02 in Gold Quartz TPT® pushes the boundaries of watchmaking. By combining advanced materials with expert craftsmanship, Richard Mille continues to redefine how mechanical precision and artistic expression converge in haute horlogerie.
Minimalist Design, Maximum Performance
BA111OD takes a bold step forward with the launch of its first chronometer-certified model, the Chapter 7, tested by the Geneva Chronometry Observatory. Staying true to its commitment to innovation and excellence, the brand delivers a timepiece that merges precision, versatility, and understated elegance without compromising accessibility.
Designed for everyday wear, this model features a 40mm stainless steel case that adapts seamlessly to any wrist and occasion, from professional settings to outdoor adventures. Beneath its refined exterior lies a chronometer-certified automatic movement, ensuring accuracy within -4/+6 seconds per day—far surpassing conventional mechanical standards. Enhanced resistance to temperature changes, shocks, and magnetic fields guarantees optimal performance in any environment. With 100 meters of water resistance, this watch is as reliable in urban settings as it is on snowy slopes or by the water.
Thomas Baillod, founder of BA111OD, highlights the significance of this achievement: "This certification marks a new milestone for BA111OD and reflects our high standards and commitment to offering the best to our customers." By choosing certification from the Geneva Observatory, conducted by the TIMELAB Foundation, BA111OD reinforces its dedication to uncompromising quality.
The Chapter 7 stands out with its refined yet dynamic design. A 10-sided faceted bezel, alternating satin and polished finishes, creates a striking interplay of light, while the sunray dial with an asymmetric cascading guilloché pattern adds character. The watch is available in four distinctive colors—Deep Blue, Ice Blue, Forest Green, and Jet Black—inspired by Neuchâtel’s landscapes. A rubber strap offers a sportier look, while a stainless steel bracelet enhances sophistication. The off-centered crown at 4 o’clock, a signature of the brand, completes this contemporary interpretation of a classic.
Available for pre-order now, the Chapter 7 will be in official retail locations starting May 2025, priced at CHF 760 with a rubber strap and CHF 820 with a stainless steel bracelet.
