Indie Watchmaking Wonders, GMT Watch Safari and Audemars Piguet’s Crown Innovation
This week on WorldTempus: Audemars Piguet revolutionizes the perpetual calendar, GMT Safari 2025 is revealed, and striking new creations from Trilobe and Schwarz Etienne emerge.
NEW WATCHES
Audemars Piguet Reinvents the Perpetual Calendar for Its 150th Anniversary
Mastering the perpetual calendar has never been easier. To mark its 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet introduces the caliber 7138, an innovative movement that simplifies adjustments by allowing all settings to be made via the crown. This advancement redefines one of the brand’s most cherished complications.
Perpetual calendar watches, known for tracking the Gregorian calendar with precision until 2100, require careful handling to maintain accuracy. Traditionally, manual corrections using styluses and correctors were necessary after prolonged periods of inactivity. Audemars Piguet addresses this challenge with the caliber 7138, eliminating the need for lateral correctors and integrating an intuitive crown-based adjustment system.
Developed over five years by Giulio Papi and his team, this movement builds on patented innovations from the RD#2 model. The new caliber powers three perpetual calendar timepieces: a Code 11.59 in 18-carat white gold with a celestial blue smoked dial, and two 41mm Royal Oak models—one in Sand Gold, an exclusive alloy shifting between white and rose gold depending on the light, and another in stainless steel. Each of these editions is limited to 150 pieces, featuring a vintage-inspired "Audemars Piguet" signature and commemorative engravings.
The ingenuity of the caliber 7138 lies in its "all-at-the-crown" correction system. The crown's second position functions differently depending on whether it is reached from position one or three, similar to an elevator stopping at a floor with two different doors. Additionally, adjustments vary based on the crown’s rotation direction. A sophisticated pebble-shaped gear wheel and a traveling pinion ensure seamless functionality, with five patents protecting the mechanism. For added security, a red "no-correction zone" indicator appears between 9 PM and 3 AM to prevent errors.
Audemars Piguet’s expertise in perpetual calendars dates back to 1899 with the Universelle pocket watch. The brand has consistently pushed boundaries, from the first wristwatch with a leap year indication in 1955 to the ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar of 1978. With the caliber 7138, Audemars Piguet continues this legacy, blending mechanical mastery with user-friendly innovation.
Une Folle Journée Rhodium-Plated Editions
Trilobe unveils three new interpretations of its signature design, reaffirming a bold and contemporary approach to watchmaking. The latest editions of Une Folle Journée introduce a striking rhodium-plated finish that accentuates the movement’s architectural depth, drawing the eye into a sculpted world where time flows rather than points. The innovative display features three rotating rings—hours on the largest, minutes on the middle, and seconds on the smallest—creating a dynamic, gravity-defying mechanism.
A new green variant joins the existing blue and black editions, introducing a refined yet vibrant touch. This carefully balanced hue captures light, shifting with every movement to enhance the depth of the dial. It is a statement of quiet confidence, a subtle evolution rather than a radical departure, seamlessly blending freshness with sophistication. The trio, including the Dune edition, expands the collection while staying true to Trilobe’s distinctive identity.
At the heart of these timepieces lies a mechanical marvel. The three rotating rings rise 10.2 mm above the base, supported by a complex structure of nine columns. Crafted from titanium-aluminum-vanadium, each ring is meticulously polished to achieve an exceptional finish. The assembly is both lightweight and incredibly challenging to shape, underscoring the technical expertise behind every detail. A flame-fused sapphire dome, manufactured in Japan and polished in Switzerland, crowns the mechanism, offering unparalleled transparency and durability.
Driving the display is the X-Centric caliber, an automatic movement exclusively designed for Trilobe. This micro-rotor movement, measuring just 6.49 mm thick, balances technical refinement with aesthetic innovation. Multi-tiered bridges and plates, precisely finished with hand-polished and microblasted surfaces, highlight the intricate craftsmanship. With these latest editions, Trilobe continues to redefine the art of timekeeping, pushing boundaries while staying unmistakably true to its vision.
A Bold Farewell: Schwarz Etienne Concludes the Geometry Saga
Schwarz Etienne brings its Geometry collection to a close with a fourth and final creation—arguably the most restrained yet. This latest edition embraces a monochromatic aesthetic, where deep black takes center stage, subtly contrasted with varying shades of gray. The watch maintains its signature deconstructed dial, showcasing intricate hand-guilloché craftsmanship with a distinctly modern edge.
A blend of artistic influences—echoing Soulages, Breguet, and the design sensibilities of Éric Giroud—shapes this striking timepiece. Unlike its predecessors, which introduced color variations such as red, salmon, and steel, this concluding chapter opts for near-total uniformity. The small seconds counter, which previously stood apart in a contrasting hue, now adopts a muted mouse gray, blending seamlessly with the black dial and cloud-gray minute track.
What makes the Geometry Black so captivating? The eye naturally seeks symmetry and balance, but this watch disrupts those expectations. Traditional guilloché designs—like Clou de Paris or azuré—offer familiar, continuous patterns. Here, the dial’s texture constantly shifts, with each segment abruptly giving way to another. This fragmented approach challenges conventional notions of beauty, inviting the wearer to appreciate asymmetry, interruption, and unpredictability.
Such a concept carries a level of risk. To fully appreciate the watch, one must step back and absorb its composition as a whole rather than focusing on individual details. This demands both time and a trained eye. However, Schwarz Etienne is not aiming to please the masses. As an independent manufacture founded in 1902 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the brand caters to collectors who value originality and are drawn to avant-garde craftsmanship.
Beyond aesthetics, this timepiece meets the highest technical standards. At its heart lies a 100% in-house automatic movement, equipped with a refined micro-rotor and an impressive 86-hour power reserve. The movement’s finish remains understated, aligning with the watch’s overall philosophy. Housed in a 39mm stainless steel case, the Geometry Black is a study in precision and intent—a design meant to endure.
Limited to just 100 pieces, this final chapter of the Geometry collection marks the end of an era while solidifying Schwarz Etienne’s reputation for bold and uncompromising watchmaking.
WATCH REVIEW
Which Steel Sport-Chic Watch Will Win You Over?
Steel sport-chic watches remain an undeniable favorite, effortlessly blending versatility, elegance, and technical prowess. Whether for everyday wear or special occasions, these timepieces make a statement. Here’s a closer look at some standout models.
Hamilton’s Khaki Field Murph (CHF 945) embodies the brand’s heritage with a modern touch. Its black dial features slightly domed numerals for enhanced legibility, while cathedral-shaped hands evoke vintage charm. Now available with a brushed three-link steel bracelet, it offers a no-frills approach to rugged sophistication.
TAG Heuer presents a refined take on sport-chic with the Carrera Date (CHF 3,250). Its sunburst satin blue dial is elevated by rose gold indexes and hands, while a graduated bezel dedicated to seconds adds depth. Powered by the Caliber 7 movement, it offers over 50 hours of power reserve and a discreet date window at 6 o’clock.
Omega’s De Ville Prestige (CHF 4,600) has defined classic elegance since its 1994 launch. Reinvented in 2022, it is now certified as a chronometer and driven by the Co-Axial manufacture caliber. This unisex model features a domed dial with alternating Roman numerals and sleek indexes, complemented by a date window.
Hermès introduces a distinctive touch with the Cut (CHF 6,080), recognizable by its subtly faceted round case. A silver opaline dial with Arabic numerals houses the H1912 manufacture caliber, visible through the sapphire case back. Its steel bracelet offers a seamless switch to rubber with an interchangeable system.
IWC’s Ingenieur (CHF 12,000) pays homage to designer Gérald Genta’s vision, featuring five functional screws on the bezel, an integrated H-link bracelet, and a textured dial with a grid pattern. This modern iteration of the 1955 classic remains true to its legacy.
Piaget’s Polo (CHF 13,500) epitomizes luxury sport watches with its integrated steel bracelet and 1110P manufacture movement. Visible through a sapphire case back, the movement delivers a 50-hour power reserve, while the cushion-shaped dial framed by a round case ensures instant recognition.
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Calendar (CHF 14,800) balances complexity and refinement. The sunburst silver guilloché dial displays day and month through apertures, the date by hand, and a moon phase within the small seconds subdial. The interchangeable steel bracelet adds versatility.
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak (CHF 24,900) remains an icon of sport-chic horology. Introduced in 1972, it is defined by its octagonal bezel secured with eight screws, integrated metal bracelet, and signature “Grande Tapisserie” patterned blue dial. An automatic caliber with a date display reinforces its timeless appeal.
Each of these steel-clad masterpieces offers a unique interpretation of sport-chic style. Which one will find its place on your wrist?
De Bethune: A Watchmaking Powerhouse
The 2000s saw a shift in the horological landscape, with independent watchmakers emerging as serious contenders alongside industry giants. Among them, De Bethune has distinguished itself with its inventive approach, addressing collectors who seek rare and unconventional timepieces.
Founded in 2002 in Auberson, Switzerland, De Bethune quickly established itself as a fully independent manufacture, designing and producing all components in-house. Over the years, the brand has developed 30 calibers, from tourbillons to perpetual calendars, and introduced around 150 unique models. With more than one new caliber created per year, its technical innovation far surpasses many traditional maisons, which often take years to develop a single movement.
Despite its prolific output, De Bethune never compromises on quality. This dedication has earned the brand multiple awards, including the prestigious Aiguille d’Or at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2011 for the DB28. With a philosophy rooted in the pursuit of excellence, De Bethune pays homage to 18th-century watchmaking masters while integrating modern advancements.
Innovation remains at the heart of the brand’s identity. Whether through groundbreaking technical solutions or striking aesthetic concepts, De Bethune consistently pushes boundaries. The DB Kind of Grande Complication, for example, showcases an array of high complications, including a jumping second, tourbillon, spherical moon phase indicator, perpetual calendar, and a leap year display, all housed in a reversible titanium case.
Guided by its motto, "Not more, but better," De Bethune balances tradition and modernity. Under the leadership of co-founder and Master Watchmaker Denis Flageollet and CEO Pierre Jacques, a team of 80 specialists—watchmakers, engineers, designers, and artisans—continues to shape 21st-century watchmaking. With only 25 retail locations worldwide and an exclusive showroom in Geneva, the brand remains a beacon for those who appreciate innovation, precision, and timeless craftsmanship.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
An Exclusive Journey into Swiss Watchmaking
For watch aficionados eager to step inside the world of Swiss horology, the GMT Watch Safari offers an unparalleled experience. From October 26 to November 1, a select group of 18 participants will embark on a meticulously curated journey through Switzerland’s most prestigious watchmaking regions.
After the resounding success of its 2024 edition, GMT is bringing back this exclusive adventure with even more personalized experiences. The itinerary spans Geneva, the Vallée de Joux, Neuchâtel, and La Chaux-de-Fonds, immersing guests in both legendary maisons and rising stars of the industry. Participants will have privileged access to renowned ateliers, where they will meet the skilled artisans and master watchmakers shaping the future of timekeeping.
Over five days, guests will explore prestigious brands, including Chopard, Breguet, Breitling, Cartier, TAG Heuer, and many more. This rare behind-the-scenes access reveals the artistry and technical mastery behind each timepiece. Conversations with industry leaders will provide an insider’s perspective on the craftsmanship, innovation, and heritage that define haute horlogerie.
Beyond horology, the GMT Watch Safari ensures a refined and seamless experience. Guests will enjoy luxury accommodations at premier establishments such as Fraser Suites Geneva and Beaulac Neuchâtel. Private transport via luxury minibuses will facilitate smooth travel across Switzerland’s watchmaking hubs, and all meals are included, allowing participants to fully immerse themselves in the experience without distractions.
With only 18 spots available, this exclusive journey is in high demand. Many participants from the inaugural edition have already secured their places for 2025, making early reservations essential.
