Watchmaking This Week: Patek Philippe, OMEGA, Perrelet and Industry Insights
This week, discover news from Patek Philippe, Perrelet, Glashütte Original, OMEGA and Kross Studio, along with highlights from SIAR and Time to Watches across the watchmaking world.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Turning Gray: The Nautilus at 40
In 2016, Patek Philippe celebrated the 40th anniversary of the Nautilus with two limited models rather than a large commemorative collection. The platinum 5711P and the white gold chronograph 5976G introduced diamond indices and a bold anniversary engraving, signaling a shift in both positioning and collectability for the iconic sports watch.
When the Nautilus reached its fortieth anniversary in 2016, many collectors expected Patek Philippe to unveil a major celebratory series at Baselworld. Instead, the event passed without a single Nautilus release. Aquanauts, Calatravas, and chronographs appeared, but the iconic sports model remained absent. The surprise came months later. In October, Patek Philippe discreetly introduced two commemorative references.
The first was reference 5711P, crafted entirely in platinum. Its gradient blue dial retained the familiar Nautilus aesthetic while incorporating twelve baguette-cut white diamond hour markers, with two at twelve o’clock and none at three due to the date window. Like all platinum Patek Philippe watches, a small diamond was set between the lower lugs. At around 240 grams, the piece was significantly heavier than the steel 5711A.
The second model, reference 5976G, presented a Nautilus flyback chronograph in white gold. Powered by caliber CH 28-520 C, it featured a concentric chronograph counter beneath the hands. Both anniversary pieces displayed a prominent engraving on the dial reading “1976 & 40 & 2016,” an unusually direct reference to the occasion.
These releases served several purposes. Diamond indices introduced a feature previously reserved for rare or bespoke pieces, while precious metals positioned the Nautilus further into the high-end segment. Production reached 700 pieces for the 5711P and 1,300 for the 5976G.
By limiting the celebration to only two references, Patek Philippe reinforced exclusivity while fueling collector demand. With the fiftieth anniversary approaching, expectations are once again rising around the future of the Nautilus.
When Pop Culture Meets Fine Watchmaking
Kross Studio blends fine watchmaking with major pop culture universes through ultra-limited collector sets that combine mechanical watches with sculptural display cases inspired by iconic franchises.
Entire generations grew up with the worlds of Gotham City, Hogwarts, and characters such as Bugs Bunny appearing courtside at an NBA game. These universes shaped the cultural imagination far beyond cinema screens. Today, they are finding an unexpected place in fine watchmaking.
Founded in Switzerland in 2020, Kross Studio has built its identity around this intersection. Rather than placing a simple logo on a dial, the brand develops Collector Sets produced in extremely limited quantities, often ten pieces or fewer. Each watch is paired with a sculptural display case designed as part of the storytelling.
The Harry Potter collaboration illustrates this approach. Beneath a sapphire dome, four Seekers, Harry, Cho Chang, Cedric Diggory and Draco Malfoy, appear to circle the movement as if engaged in a Quidditch match at Hogwarts. The watch is accompanied by a music box playing Hedwig’s Theme.
A similar narrative defines the Star Wars creations. The Boba Fett Collector Set pairs a tourbillon watch with a sculpture inspired by the bounty hunter’s ship. Another project, the Death Star Ultimate Collector Set, presents the Death Star Central Tourbillon alongside a kyber crystal inside a container modeled after Imperial capsules from the films.
Kross Studio has also explored universes such as Batman, Wonder Woman, Game of Thrones, Transformers, and Space Jam. Through these collaborations, the brand demonstrates that a watch can extend beyond mechanics to become a cultural object connected to stories and characters shared by millions.
From Gimmick to Icon: The Evolution of Perrelet’s Turbine
Introduced in 2009, Perrelet’s Turbine watch initially raised doubts among observers. Seventeen years later, the animated dial has become the brand’s most recognizable signature, evolving through numerous variations and artistic collaborations.
When Perrelet introduced the first Turbine watch at Baselworld in 2009, many observers questioned whether the concept would endure. The watch featured a distinctive dial constructed as a cut-out disc that spins rapidly with even slight wrist movement. What some initially dismissed as a novelty has since become the defining element of the brand’s modern identity.
The Turbine appeared several years after the Swiss brand had been revived by the Spanish Festina Group. That revival followed an earlier attempt to relaunch Perrelet under previous ownership. Although that effort did not succeed commercially, it helped preserve the legacy of one of watchmaking’s historic names.
That legacy reaches back to the mid-eighteenth century with Abraham-Louis Perrelet. He is widely credited with developing one of the earliest self-winding watch mechanisms. According to historical accounts, a short walk of fifteen minutes could generate enough energy to power the watch for eight days.
Innovation continued with his grandson, Louis-Frédéric Perrelet, who created marine timepieces with additional functions such as measuring instruments and a split-seconds chronograph. His contributions to scientific progress were recognized with the Prix Lalande, awarded by the French Academy of Sciences.
When Festina revived the brand, the first modern Perrelet models paid tribute to Abraham-Louis’s invention through a system of twin rotors placed on both sides of the movement. The rotor positioned on the dial side eventually inspired the Turbine concept. Its rotating blades, reminiscent of a jet engine, reveal glimpses of the dial beneath and create an animated visual effect.
Over time, this distinctive feature became a creative platform. Artists such as Chris Alexander, known as The Dial Artist, and Romain André, better known as seconde/seconde/, have reinterpreted the Turbine through limited editions and unique pieces. Another collaboration with Arabic calligrapher Diaa Allam introduced a colorful artwork beneath the spinning blades.
Through these interpretations and numerous regular models, the Turbine has proven that what once appeared to be a simple gimmick can evolve into a lasting signature.
NEW WATCHES
Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue” by Glashütte Original
Glashütte Original introduces the Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue,” a women’s watch featuring a shifting mother-of-pearl dial, diamond accents, and an automatic manufacture movement with moon phase.
Glashütte Original expands its Serenade Luna collection with a new model inspired by the reflections of a modern city skyline. The watch features an ultra-thin mother-of-pearl dial in “Skyline Blue,” whose color changes depending on the light. Several layers of dark lacquer applied to the back of the dial interact with the natural structure of the material, creating a gradient that moves from pale silvery blue to deeper smoky tones.
The dial is framed by a 32.5 mm stainless steel case set with 48 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Diamond hour markers add further sparkle, while a moon phase display at six o’clock introduces a celestial detail. The moon disc is also made of mother-of-pearl, with blue lacquer on the reverse to create depth. Small silver stars printed around the aperture reinforce the night sky motif. White gold is used for the hands, the moon phase frame, and the settings of the diamond indexes.
Inside the watch, the automatic manufacture calibre 35 provides a power reserve of 60 hours and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz. It is equipped with a silicon balance spring designed to resist magnetic fields and temperature variations. Through the sapphire crystal case back, traditional Glashütte finishing can be observed, including the three-quarter plate with stripe decoration, bevelled edges, blued screws, and a rotor plate crafted in solid gold.
The Serenade Luna “Skyline Blue” will be available from March 2026 through Glashütte Original boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide.
OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M Milano Cortina 2026
OMEGA marks the upcoming Paralympic Winter Games Milano Cortina 2026 with a special edition Seamaster Diver 300M crafted in white ceramic and grade 5 titanium. The watch pays tribute to the event through design elements inspired by the official emblem and is powered by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806.
To celebrate the Paralympic Winter Games Milano Cortina 2026, OMEGA has introduced a dedicated version of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Created as a tribute to the athletes competing in the event, the 43.5 mm watch reflects the visual identity of the Games while highlighting the brand’s role as Official Timekeeper.
The design draws inspiration from the Milano Cortina 2026 emblem. The case combines white ceramic with grade 5 titanium, materials chosen for their light weight and durability. Contrasting finishes enhance the architecture of the watch, including a polished and brushed case body, a sandblasted helium escape valve and crown, and a white ceramic bezel with a laser-ablated diving scale in positive relief.
The dial continues the theme. Crafted from white ceramic, it features a laser-engraved frosted surface and a subtle pattern inspired by the “26” of the official Games emblem. Rhodium-plated hands and hour markers are filled with white Super-LumiNova for visibility in low light. The central seconds hand stands out with a gradient in red, blue, and green, reflecting the colors of the competition logo.
On the reverse, the grade 5 titanium caseback bears a stamped Milano Cortina 2026 emblem, linking the watch directly to the XIV Paralympic Winter Games. The timepiece is worn on an integrated white rubber strap with a titanium buckle.
Powering the watch is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806, offering a power reserve of 55 hours and certified to the highest Swiss standards of precision and magnetic resistance.
The Paralympic Winter Games Milano Cortina 2026 will take place from March 6 to March 15. Continuing a role it has held since 1992, OMEGA will serve as Official Timekeeper, recording all 79 events across six sports.
BUSINESS NEWS
Top Chrono: The Watch Week Begins
This week, WorldTempus Deputy Editor-in-Chief Anders Modig Davin and Gem-Genève Editor-in-Chief Marie de Pimodan review the latest developments in watchmaking, discussing key launches, industry events, and notable announcements shaping the sector.
Through a concise conversation, the two editors share their perspectives on recent launches, upcoming events, and important announcements from leading brands. Their discussion highlights the stories that are drawing attention within the watch world while providing context on the broader trends influencing the sector.
Designed as a quick weekly briefing, the format offers a clear overview of the news shaping contemporary watchmaking. In just a few minutes, viewers gain insight into the topics, innovations, and conversations likely to define the week ahead.
SIAR Celebrates 20 Years Connecting Fine Watchmaking with Latin America
The Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) celebrates its 20th edition in 2026. Founded in Mexico City, the event has become the leading watchmaking gathering in Latin America, connecting brands, collectors, retailers, and the press.
Founded in 2007 by Carlos Alonso, SIAR has established itself as the most important fine watchmaking event in Latin America. The 20th edition will take place from October 20 to 22 at the St. Regis Mexico City, the salon’s longtime venue. For Alonso, the anniversary highlights two decades of growth within a rapidly evolving watch industry.
“SIAR was founded in 2007 in Mexico City, and this year we mark our 20th edition. It will run from October 20 to 22 at our longtime home, the St. Regis Mexico City. Two decades in the shifting landscape of fine watchmaking is no small achievement, and we want this edition to carry a spirit worthy of that.”
From the beginning, SIAR focused on bringing watchmaking directly to collectors and enthusiasts across Latin America. Unlike traditional trade shows such as Baselworld or SIHH, the salon was designed as a consumer-facing event. Today it welcomes around 250 journalists, approximately 3,500 enthusiasts, and the country’s full retail network.
Mexico’s strong relationship with luxury watches has also supported the salon’s success. Alonso explains that exhibitors benefit from direct contact with a passionate and well-informed audience.
“Mexicans have had a particular relationship with the luxury watch since the 19th century, and for exhibitors the Salon offers direct access to a high-net-worth audience that is genuinely passionate and ready to make serious purchasing decisions quickly.”
Over the years, SIAR has helped introduce around 150 brands to Latin America, including both major groups and independent watchmakers. As new regional fairs emerge, Alonso sees this trend as confirmation of the model that SIAR pioneered two decades ago.
EVENT
Time to Watches Strengthens Its Role During Geneva Watch Week
For its fifth edition, Time to Watches gathers more than 85 brands at Villa Sarasin during Geneva Watch Week, highlighting independent watchmaking, emerging creators, and established names in an immersive setting.
Time to Watches returns for its fifth edition with more than 85 brands gathering at Villa Sarasin, just one minute from Palexpo during Geneva Watch Week. The event continues to establish itself as an important platform for contemporary watchmaking, bringing together independent maisons, established brands, and new creators.
This year’s edition introduces the concept of a “Watchmaking Village,” with several dedicated areas including the Villa, Lodge, Annex, Cellar, Garden, and Brand Pavilion. The format encourages visitors to move easily between spaces, creating an environment where professional meetings and informal conversations take place naturally.
Among the participating brands, independent Swiss names such as BA111OD and HAUTE-RIVE highlight the innovative spirit of the event, while Krayon represents high-end independent watchmaking. Manufacture DOMINIQUE RENAUD will also make its debut, presenting a vision that challenges traditional horological codes.
Creativity remains a key theme with brands such as Beauregard, TAOS, and KERBEDANZ exploring artistic interpretations of watchmaking. At the same time, younger brands including ID Genève and Pragma emphasize transparency and responsible production.
Historic and revived names also contribute to the international character of the fair. Nivada Grenchen continues to attract attention among neo-vintage enthusiasts, while brands such as Fears and Junghans bring distinct national identities to the event.
“We have highlighted a few standout names, but the reality is even richer: more than 85 brands will be present, and each deserves to be discovered. What defines Time toWatches is this unapologetic diversity: established houses, independents and bold creators, all brought together by a shared spirit.”
