MB&F Redefines Elegance, OMEGA Revives an Icon, and Glashütte Glows with Lunar Grace
This week on WorldTempus: MB&F unveils its smallest timepiece, OMEGA refreshes the Railmaster, Glashütte honors femininity with moonphases, and Breguet celebrates its 250th anniversary.
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
Stylish in Every Moment
Glashütte Original enriches its Serenade Luna collection with four new models that combine horological craftsmanship and expressive design, offering modern women refined companions for every occasion. Introduced in 2024, the Serenade Luna line gains depth and diversity with these latest releases, emphasizing elegance through thoughtful materials and meticulous details.
Two of the new timepieces come in warm red gold cases, paired with deep midnight blue alligator leather straps. One showcases a white mother-of-pearl dial, the other a rich blue version with a sunray finish. Both feature sparkling diamonds on the bezel, indexes, and crown, delivering a confident yet balanced sense of glamour.
The remaining two novelties adopt a bicolor look, combining stainless steel cases with red gold bezels. Their dials, both in iridescent white mother-of-pearl, contrast through subtle design variations. One model, adorned with full diamond settings and matched with an orange leather strap, offers a vibrant interpretation. The other opts for a quieter elegance, with diamonds only on the indexes and crown, and a soft pink strap completing its gentle appeal.
All four watches highlight a poetic moon phase display at 6 o’clock. Made entirely of natural mother-of-pearl, the disc features four starry representations of the lunar sky in dark grey Tahiti mother-of-pearl. This refined mechanism delivers an accuracy deviation of just one day in 122 years and can be adjusted via the crown’s first position.
Inside, the Calibre 35 automatic movement powers each model, offering 60 hours of autonomy and equipped with a silicon balance spring that resists magnetic fields and temperature shifts. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the hand-finished movement reveals Glashütte’s signature decorative artistry, including the three-quarter plate with stripe finish, blued screws, and a solid gold rotor with shell engraving.
Together, these additions offer timeless beauty anchored in mechanical excellence, enhancing any wardrobe with character and precision.
Interview with Gregory Kissling, Breguet CEO
As Breguet enters its 250th year, newly appointed CEO Gregory Kissling shares his strategic outlook for the legendary maison, placing product innovation and historical resonance at the heart of the anniversary celebrations. After a seamless transition with his predecessor, Kissling immersed himself in Breguet’s extensive archives to better align the brand’s heritage with modern expectations. This deep dive laid the foundation for a new product-driven approach, underscored by a renewed way of storytelling.
A key legacy Breguet draws from is its naval chronometry. Abraham-Louis Breguet was appointed Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy in 1815, a title that led to the creation of marine chronometers vital for maritime navigation. That heritage is embodied in the Marine collection — a series that balances high complications, like the Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, with sportier, more accessible references. These models reflect not only the values of precision but also a design language that sets them apart.
While the Classique line continues to represent tradition with its guilloché dials and off-centered displays, the Marine collection is set to shine in the second half of 2025, as part of the anniversary program. Kissling's previous experience at Omega, particularly in innovation and market rollouts, now serves Breguet’s goal to blend cutting-edge advancements with time-honored craftsmanship.
Rather than launching a Grand Complication to mark the milestone, Breguet chose to introduce the Classique Souscription 2025, a seemingly simple piece rich in symbolic detail. Inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s original Souscription watches, it stands out with a single hand, a domed crystal, a redesigned case with softened ergonomics, and an entirely new gold alloy developed in collaboration with Nivarox. This "Breguet Gold" echoes a historical 1797 formula and reflects a growing collector interest in yellow gold—now reimagined with contemporary nuance.
This launch, the first of nine events throughout the year, encapsulates the maison’s dual ambition: honoring its remarkable past while shaping the next era of haute horlogerie.
NEW WATCHES
MB&F Steps into Elegance with SP One — A Classic That Defies Convention
For its first-ever 38mm watch, MB&F doesn’t just shrink its bold DNA—it reimagines it entirely. The new Special Project One, or SP One, may appear as a refined, almost classical timepiece at first glance, but beneath its elegant surface lies a radical mechanical sculpture that levitates on the wrist.
Enclosed in a perfectly smooth, pebble-like case, the SP One is MB&F’s slimmest and most compact creation. Yet, it remains unmistakably true to the brand’s architectural complexity. Inside this 38mm amphitheater of sapphire, three floating elements—barrel, balance wheel, and dial—hover mysteriously, as if suspended in mid-air. These components, crafted with intricate precision, seem weightless thanks to near-invisible bridges and a carefully stripped-down architecture. The tilted dial, enabled by conical gearing, adds a sophisticated 3D twist, while the balance wheel spins gracefully at 2 o’clock like a cosmic dancer.
Born from the brand’s “basket of dormant ideas” during the pandemic, the SP One revives the raw creative energy that shaped the wildly successful M.A.D.1. Unlike MB&F’s usual mechanical spectacles, this piece opts for restraint and finesse. “What if we did what no one expected—an elegant, classical watch?” recalls founder Maximilian Büsser. This idea, first sketched in 2018, evolved into something more than a design; it became a philosophy of equilibrium.
Collaborating with designer Eric Giroud, the final concept maintains the signature MB&F spirit while offering a tactile, organic sensation. The case design is bezel-free, and its detached lugs rise from the lower shell, creating subtle space and fluidity. Viewed from the front or flipped to its caseback, the SP One reveals fine finishing that blends tradition with daring invention—angled wheels, polished chatons, satin, micro-blasted textures, and restrained contrast.
More than just MB&F’s smallest watch, the SP One redefines what a classical timepiece can be when approached with imagination and audacity. It’s elegant. It’s technical. It’s MB&F—but in a form we never expected.
OMEGA Revives the Railmaster with Refined Gradients and Understated Elegance
In a tribute to one of its most functional icons, OMEGA brings back the Railmaster in 2025 with new models that celebrate the watch’s utilitarian roots while embracing contemporary aesthetic codes. Originally launched in 1957 as part of OMEGA’s “Professional Line” alongside the Speedmaster and Seamaster 300, the Railmaster was engineered with a clear mission: deliver uncompromising performance to professionals working in magnetic environments—particularly railway staff, engineers, and scientists.
The defining strength of the original model lay in its anti-magnetic core. While most watches at the time could only withstand magnetic fields up to 60 gauss, the Railmaster resisted up to 1,000 gauss thanks to an internal protective case—an extraordinary leap in reliability and precision for technical wearers.
This year’s new stainless steel editions retain that purposeful spirit, now enhanced with modern elegance and thoughtful detailing. At 38 mm, both versions present a balanced, minimalist profile. Echoing the styling of the Seamaster Aqua Terra, the symmetrical case design and integrated bracelets offer a refined continuity within the OMEGA family.
The first model features a grey dial with a black gradient, exuding clean sophistication. True to the original’s pared-down aesthetic, it omits unnecessary text, keeping only the OMEGA logo and Railmaster signature. White Super-LumiNova ensures strong readability in all conditions, and the model is offered either on a sleek black leather strap or an improved steel bracelet with enhanced comfort and redesigned links.
The second variant reinterprets the Railmaster’s 2004 revival with a beige dial and black gradient, this time including a Small Seconds function at 6 o’clock. Its vintage Super-LumiNova accents and warm Novonappa leather strap give it a slightly nostalgic, yet updated, character.
Brushed and polished surfaces throughout both the case and bracelet create a compelling visual interplay of texture and light—subtle, yet striking. With these latest editions, OMEGA reaffirms the Railmaster’s timeless appeal, blending function and form with enduring precision.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Behind the Scenes at Lorige
Making its debut at Time To Watches, Lorige—the young independent watchmaker with motor oil in its veins—left a lasting impression on collectors and retailers alike. Known for its radical concept of crafting cases from the brake pads of race-winning cars, the brand’s booth offered more than just watches: it presented the human story behind the metal. Founders Clément Etienvre, Emeric Paraud, and Philippe Dumas were front and center, translating their shared motorsport passion into mechanical artistry.
Commercially, the show opened doors across the globe—from Saudi Arabia to Japan, including major U.S. cities like New York, Denver, and Houston. Not bad for a team that, between 2020 and 2024, sold 50 watches directly, priced between €25,000 and €30,000—without external support.
What sets Lorige apart isn’t just its motorsport DNA, but a commitment to technical authenticity. The brand owns its machining capabilities, operates under a patent, and now partners with Timeless SA, a seasoned player in Swiss watchmaking, as both shareholder and manufacturing ally. This collaboration ensures the reliability, quality, and punctual delivery collectors demand.
Though still boutique in scale, Lorige embraces a manufacture-style model with ambition to match. A new watch will be launched every year, with an aviation-inspired piece already in the works for 2026. It's a natural evolution for a team whose technical foundations and lifestyle are intertwined with performance and precision.
From their new Meyrin offices to the upcoming appearance at Le Mans (June 15–16), Lorige is putting its name—and its watches—on the fast track. More than just a niche concept, the brand is shifting into high gear with global reach and a clear trajectory.
Trilobe’s Folle Journée Returns in 3D Rhodium Glory—A Sculptural Ode to Time and Culture
Trilobe continues to redefine contemporary horology with three new editions of Folle Journée, now enhanced by rhodium-plated bridges that breathe fresh depth and contrast into the collection’s architectural DNA. Presented in striking blue, black, and—for the first time—green, these timepieces push beyond aesthetics, channeling literature, art, and brutalist geometry into a truly sculptural vision of time.
Rhodium, a rare metal from the platinum family, gives the bridges a silvery finish, preventing oxidation while visually amplifying the tension between solid matter and negative space. The effect is a heightened three-dimensionality—a defining characteristic of the Folle Journée line since its 2023 debut. The open architecture becomes even more pronounced, as the rhodium sheen isolates the display rings and makes them hover, almost detached, like kinetic elements in a piece of modern art.
The green edition, in particular, stands out. Its unique hue evokes landscapes at dusk—serene yet vivid—and brings a poetic freshness to the series. The watch’s name, a nod to The Marriage of Figaro (“La Folle Journée”) by Beaumarchais, is no accident. Trilobe’s founder Gautier Massonneau, himself deeply immersed in literature and theatre, ties his timepieces to storytelling. Beaumarchais—once a watchmaker before turning playwright—is the perfect muse for a creation that challenges established codes through both form and function.
At the heart of these models beats the X-Centric caliber, conceived with Le Cercle des Horlogers. Its brutalist design—all sharp lines —defies the traditional round symmetry of watch movements. The architectural influence, akin to Le Corbusier’s philosophy, is unmistakable. Here, the geometry of time takes center stage, reimagined as a wearable structure.
In Folle Journée, Trilobe offers not just a watch, but a narrative experience. A fusion of mechanical art, literary spirit, and architectural rigor—one where time does not dictate, but rather, composes.
MUST-SEE THIS WEEK
Father's Day Special: Exclusive Offer on The Millennium Watch Book!
This Father’s Day, go beyond the expected with a gift that speaks to time, passion, and legacy. The Millennium Watch Book collection, offered exclusively by WorldTempus, is now available at a special rate from May 19 to June 2—a rare opportunity for readers and watch lovers alike.
Each volume is available for 70.30 CHF using the code HAPPY-MWB-2025, or the complete five-volume set for just 300 CHF with HAPPY-MWB-COLLECTION. It’s the ultimate gift for fathers who appreciate fine watchmaking, value craftsmanship, or simply enjoy diving into an expertly written and beautifully illustrated book.
Launched in 2020 by Brice Lechevalier, Executive Director of GMT Publishing, The Millennium Watch Book was conceived to encapsulate the essence of modern watchmaking from the year 2000 onward. Oversized, collector-worthy, and written in a highly engaging style, each volume focuses on a distinct pillar of horology.
Explore the origins of modern haute horlogerie in Volume 1, a sweeping overview of the most important timepieces and innovations of the last two decades. Discover the soul of mechanical precision in Volume 2, dedicated to the tourbillon, with its mesmerizing rotating cages and poetic purpose. Volume 3 ventures into the deep with diving watches, capturing their rugged elegance and adventurous charm. Volume 4 puts a spotlight on chronographs, where function and performance meet intricate design. And the most recent edition, Volume 5, is all about GMT & worldtimers, a complication that resonates with globetrotters and collectors alike.
Each edition offers rich visuals, technical insight, and timeless storytelling, making them more than just books—they are horological experiences. A gift to revisit, reread, and reappreciate for years to come.
A thoughtful gesture, a collector’s item, and a celebration of time itself. This Father’s Day, give a present that’s as meaningful as it is lasting.
👉Order your books here
Code: HAPPY-MWB-2025 (individual volumes)
Code: HAPPY-MWB-COLLECTION (complete set)
