Masterpieces in Motion: When Watchmaking Becomes Art
This week discover Patek Philippe’s dazzling Nautilus, Jaquet Droz’s mythical dragon automaton, Baume & Mercier’s refined Clifton Baumatic, Bvlgari’s GPHG triumphs, and Zenith’s gravity innovation.
NEW WATCHES
Patek Philippe Nautilus: A Masterclass in Brilliance and Balance
With the new Nautilus 5811/1460G-001, Patek Philippe elevates its iconic design into the realm of Haute Joaillerie without losing its refined essence. Since its debut in 1976, the Nautilus has defied conventions, blending sportiness and sophistication through its bold octagonal bezel and timeless silhouette.
This new white gold version dazzles with 1,480 diamonds totaling nearly 20 carats, yet remains faithful to the watch’s original spirit. Each baguette- and brilliant-cut stone is set with surgical precision, enhancing the Nautilus’s architecture rather than overwhelming it. The bezel, dial, and bracelet form a continuous play of light and geometry, with diamonds meticulously aligned to recreate the model’s signature horizontal pattern.
Beneath its brilliance lies the automatic Caliber 26-330 S, equipped with a stop-seconds function and a 45-hour power reserve. Its gold rotor, visible through the sapphire back, offers a subtle reminder that mechanical excellence remains at the heart of every Patek Philippe creation.
Radiant yet disciplined, the 5811/1460G-001 proves that true luxury is not about excess but equilibrium—where craftsmanship, heritage, and artistry converge in perfect harmony.
Jaquet Droz: The Eternal Power of the Dragon
Since 2022, Jaquet Droz has created only one-of-a-kind timepieces, many celebrating the mythical dragon—a timeless emblem of wisdom, power, and prosperity. This fascination dates back to the 18th century, when Pierre Jaquet-Droz crafted a dragon clock for the Emperor of China, now housed in the Forbidden City.
Each year, the brand reinterprets this creature through exceptional artistry. Its dragon automatons come alive at the press of a pusher: eyes blink, the tongue moves, scales shimmer, and the gemstone in its claw rotates in an 11-second animation of 19 moving parts.
For its most recent masterpiece, Jaquet Droz partnered with The Lord of the Rings illustrator John Howe. His Imperial Dragon Automaton Red Gold – Cuprite embodies the calm strength of the Chinese imperial dragon, surrounded by golden and ochre clouds symbolizing life-giving rain. The fiery red cuprite dial represents the creature’s energy and vitality.
Entirely sculpted, engraved, and enamelled by hand, each watch is tailored to its collector’s vision. With around 100 unique pieces crafted annually, Jaquet Droz continues to merge mythology and fine watchmaking, ensuring that every year remains, in spirit, the Year of the Dragon.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic: Timeless Style Reimagined
This fall, Baume & Mercier expands its Clifton Baumatic line with three new models inspired by the elegance of the 1950s. With a refined 39 mm case, domed sapphire crystal, and dials in off-white, opaline salmon, or gradient blue, the collection blends vintage charm with modern sophistication.
Powered by the Baumatic movement—developed with ValFleurier and Richemont’s R&D team—the watches offer a five-day power reserve and exceptional reliability. Visible through the sapphire back, the movement reveals intricate finishes, from beaded bridges to an openworked gold-toned rotor.
The new steel bracelet, both durable and elegant, enhances daily comfort and versatility. With its harmonious proportions and understated style, the Clifton Baumatic embodies the spirit of mid-century refinement—crafted for those who value precision, durability, and effortless elegance.
EVENTS
Bulgari at the GPHG: Beyond Time and Limits
The GPHG shortlist often reveals more than watch trends—it reflects brand identities. For Bvlgari, it is a celebration of exuberance, mastery, and Italian audacity.
Its monumental book Beyond Time, published by Assouline, captures that spirit: a six-kilogram tribute to beauty and boldness that defies the era of quiet luxury. Every Bvlgari creation embraces joy, excess, and precision in equal measure.
This year, three GPHG finalists tell the story. The Serpenti, an icon for 75 years, proves how Bvlgari turned an animal motif into a timeless design language. The new Serpenti collaboration with MB&F unites Roman jewelry artistry with avant-garde Swiss mechanics—a meeting of visionaries, Fabrizio Buonamassa and Max Büsser.
Finally, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon pushes physics to the edge at just 1.85 mm thick, redefining what ultra-thin can be. Few brands dare to go this far. At the GPHG, Bvlgari reminds the world that true luxury is not restraint—it is the art of going beyond.
Zenith Defy Zero G: Defying Gravity in Sapphire
For its 160th anniversary, Zenith unveils two new Defy Zero G editions in clear and blue sapphire, each limited to ten pieces.
Powered by the hand-wound El Primero 8812 S, these watches showcase the brand’s patented “Gravity Control” gyroscopic escapement, designed to counteract gravitational effects. Inspired by marine chronometers, this system keeps the regulating organ perfectly balanced, ensuring exceptional precision.
With a lapis-lazuli dial and a fully transparent case revealing its intricate mechanics, the Defy Zero G embodies Zenith’s legacy of innovation and mastery—an enduring tribute to 160 years of technical brilliance.
