Inside Watchmaking Innovation: From Patek Philippe Icons to Breguet’s Magnetic Breakthroughs
This week, discover bold watchmaking innovations from Breguet, Patek Philippe, Minerva, Kerbedanz, and Ferdinand Berthoud, along with key design trends shaping Watches and Wonders 2026.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
The Maltese Cross: A Lasting Symbol of Vacheron Constantin
Adopted in 1880, the Maltese cross has become inseparable from Vacheron Constantin, standing as both a historical reference and a marker of identity. While its shape traces back to Byzantine origins, its integration into watchmaking was driven by practical concerns rather than aesthetics.
“It was first published on the 10th of January, 1880,” Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director, tells WorldTempus. “But it was not only a logo it was also a seal created to protect our brand. And that is really very, very important.”
At the time, European markets were formalizing systems to safeguard intellectual property. The Maltese cross emerged as a trademark, ensuring authenticity in an era when imitation was increasingly common. “In the second half of the 19th century, various countries in Europe started to establish stamps or seals that would protect brands,” Selmoni explains. “That was the introduction of this notion of trademark protecting your intellectual property.”
Its selection was not arbitrary. The form closely resembled a mechanical component known as the Geneva drive, used to prevent overwinding in certain movements. “It was a kind of limitation device for the mainspring, which was shaped like a Maltese cross,” Selmoni says. Over time, this mechanism faded from regular use, particularly after the 1970s, though it briefly reappeared in 2004 within the calibre 1226AT.
Today, the symbol operates primarily as a visual signature. It is integrated across collections, especially within the Overseas line, where its geometry influences both structural and decorative elements. “When designing the Overseas case, one of the main questions was how can we clearly identify that timepiece as a Vacheron Constantin from three meters away” Selmoni says. “The idea was to draw inspiration from the Maltese cross.”
Beyond the watches, the emblem shapes the brand’s global presence. “If you think about all the boutiques we have, the Maltese cross is very much used as a design inspiration,” Selmoni says.
“When I think about Vacheron Constantin, this is the first thing that comes to mind,” Selmoni says. “Legacy and heritage are important, but I would not call them values, they are assets. The true values are craftsmanship, sophistication, refinement and elegance.”
The Nautilus Legacy: Expanding an Icon
Few watches achieve lasting influence, but the Patek Philippe Nautilus stands apart. As it nears its 50th anniversary, its impact is evident not only in its desirability but in the models it has inspired. A truly significant watch creates a lineage, and the Nautilus has done exactly that.
The Aquanaut is often considered its closest descendant. Introduced in 1997, it shares key design elements such as a rounded square case, a sporty aesthetic, and strong luminescent markers. A press release from the Nautilus’ 40th anniversary even notes that early leather strap versions helped pave the way for it. While it lacks the same heritage and integrated bracelet construction, it clearly borrows from its predecessor while offering a more accessible entry point.
The Cubitus takes this evolution further. Despite the brand’s reluctance to state it openly, its connection to the Nautilus is unmistakable. The main difference lies in its square profile, yet the overall design language remains consistent. Its 2024 launch generated mixed reactions, with some criticism surrounding its purpose and positioning.
Still, the model found commercial success and gained traction on the secondary market. More importantly, it reframed how collectors perceive the Nautilus. By emphasizing its 1970s design codes, the Cubitus highlighted the origins of an aesthetic that has become central to modern watchmaking.
NEW WATCHES
Kerbedanz Expands the Maxima GR8 with Ceramic Editions
Kerbedanz continues to refine its approach to contemporary watchmaking with two new additions to the Maxima GR8 collection. These 39mm editions combine bold design choices with traditional craftsmanship, centered around a one minute flying tourbillon that remains the focal point of each piece.
Building on earlier models crafted in sapphire, the brand introduces black and white ceramic versions inspired by the concept of duality. The contrast between the two is deliberate. The matte black case conveys depth and intensity, while the white ceramic brings a sense of clarity and light. This visual opposition frames the central tourbillon, reinforcing its role as both a technical feature and a symbolic element.
“With these two new Maxima GR8 39mm editions, we wanted to express balance through contrast, shadow and light, strength and elegance. The central tourbillon becomes the living symbol of this harmony, constantly in motion, uniting both worlds,” said Vahé Vartzbed, CEO of Kerbedanz.
Beyond aesthetics, the use of high performance ceramic enhances durability and wearability. Known for its hardness and resistance to scratches, this material also offers a lightweight feel on the wrist. Each case is carefully finished to highlight the architectural lines that define the Maxima GR8 design.
Production remains intentionally limited, with only 28 pieces available for each version. This controlled release underlines the brand’s focus on exclusivity while maintaining a strong identity rooted in mechanical expression.
Breguet Expérimentale 1 Pushes Precision Through Magnetic Innovation
Breguet introduces the Expérimentale 1, a high frequency timepiece operating at 10 Hz thanks to a magnetic tourbillon escapement. This achievement addresses one of watchmaking’s core challenges: increasing oscillation speed to improve accuracy while maintaining stability within a complex mechanism.
Driving a balance at such a rate is particularly difficult, especially inside a full sized tourbillon cage. The solution developed by Breguet revisits the spirit of its historical innovations, echoing breakthroughs from the late 18th century when the maison introduced the tourbillon and other foundational inventions.
In this movement, energy follows a familiar path from the mainspring through the gear train to the escapement. However, the key difference lies in how that energy reaches the balance wheel. Instead of relying on traditional mechanical contact, impulses are transmitted through magnetic forces. This eliminates friction between components, allowing the system to operate at high speed without the limitations imposed by inertia.
Because the escapement components do not physically touch, the movement delivers a consistent level of energy throughout its 72 hour power reserve. This creates a constant force effect, ensuring stable performance over time. Notably, this result is achieved as a direct consequence of the magnetic system rather than through additional mechanisms.
The watch’s architecture is visible beneath a sapphire dial, featuring a regulator style layout with hours at 6 o’clock, off center minutes, and seconds displayed within the tourbillon at 12. The 43.5 millimeter case, crafted in gold and inspired by the Marine collection, reinforces its technical identity.
Certified with a deviation of only ±1 second, the Expérimentale 1 enters the “Scientific” category, demonstrating how contemporary engineering can redefine the limits of mechanical precision.
Minerva Unveils a Refined Vision with The Unveiled Secret 39mm Editions
Minerva introduces a new interpretation of The Unveiled Secret, now presented in a more compact 39 mm case alongside a deep burgundy tone. This evolution required a complete reworking of its monopusher chronograph, resulting in a newly developed and patented movement designed specifically for this reduced format.
Two distinct limited editions express this updated aesthetic. The first, crafted in 18K rose gold and limited to 18 pieces, features a fluted bezel set with 84 brilliant cut diamonds. The second, limited to 58 pieces, combines a rose gold bezel with a stainless steel case, offering a more understated contrast while preserving the same design language.
At the center of the watch lies its defining feature: an inverted chronograph movement displayed on the dial side. The openworked structure has been reduced to a peripheral ring with hour markers and three horizontal bridges, allowing a clear view of the mechanism. The hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds are mounted centrally, while the small seconds appear at 9 o’clock and the 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock, distinguished by Minerva’s arrow shaped hand. The burgundy tones emerge through this skeletonized architecture, complemented by a matching alligator strap.
This configuration stems from a concept first introduced in 2022, where the movement was reversed to reveal its complexity on the front. In this 39 mm version, the newly developed Calibre M13.26 adapts that approach to a smaller case. Crafted in rhodium plated German silver and finished by hand, it incorporates signature elements such as the V shaped chronograph bridge and the Minerva arrow, while offering a 60 hour power reserve.
The caseback, available in rose gold or steel depending on the edition, features an engraving of the Minerva manufacture in Villeret along with the historic RFV emblem. Each piece is presented in a walnut box with a concealed opening system, reinforcing the sense of discovery that defines this release.
Ferdinand Berthoud Reveals a New Chapter with the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1
Ferdinand Berthoud introduces the Chronomètre FB 2TV.1, marking the beginning of a new collection inspired by the 18th century watchmaker’s written legacy. More than a design evolution, this piece reflects a shift in how the brand approaches both visibility and mechanical architecture.
For years, collectors expressed a desire to see more of the movement from the dial side. “I love your watches, but I would wear them upside down so that you can see some of the movement,” said Ferdinand Berthoud Marketing director Jonathan Richard. This feedback led to a fully reversed and openworked construction, where the entire mechanism is now visible from the front.
At the heart of the watch lies a redeveloped fusée and chain system, ensuring consistent force throughout its 60 hour power reserve. This complex structure, composed of hundreds of components, is not only functional but also visually engaging. “We had to redevelop the complete architecture of the movement,”. “Not only the chain, we also have a new flying tourbillon with two additional features; reset to zero mechanism for the central second hand and a stop balance.”
This approach directly references the work of Ferdinand Berthoud himself, whose marine chronometers were known for their precision during long sea voyages. His 1787 treatise La Mesure du Temps also serves as a conceptual foundation, outlining principles that shaped modern horology.
The Chronomètre FB 2TV.1 continues this legacy while introducing contemporary features. Its asymmetrical layout includes an off center hours and minutes display, a power reserve indicator, and a central seconds hand with a return to zero function integrated into the crown. Each movement requires nearly 300 hours of manual finishing, emphasizing the artisanal expertise behind its construction.
Produced in limited quantities of around 10 to 12 pieces per year, this timepiece sets the tone for future developments, where visibility of the mechanism will remain central to the brand’s identity.
EVENT
Watches and Wonders 2026: The Key Trends Shaping Modern Watch Design
As Watches and Wonders 2026 approaches, two major design directions are expected to dominate conversations across the industry. From H. Moser & Cie. to TAG Heuer, Audemars Piguet and Cartier, brands are increasingly embracing openworked aesthetics, while stone dials are making a strong return across multiple segments.
Skeletonization, once associated with ornate and traditional designs, has undergone a clear transformation. Two decades ago, a few maisons such as Roger Dubuis and Cartier began reinterpreting this technique, moving away from decorative excess toward more structured compositions. Today, the approach is widely adopted, but with a distinctly contemporary language. Straight lines, sharp angles, and modern materials such as titanium or rhodium plated components define this evolution. Brands like Richard Mille and Zenith illustrate how openworked movements can combine technical visibility with architectural clarity.
At the same time, stone dials are reemerging as a major aesthetic trend. Once popular in the 1960s and 1970s, they had largely faded from view before returning in recent years. Now, they appear across a wide range of collections, from Piaget to Rolex and Bvlgari. Materials such as malachite, lapis lazuli, onyx, and tiger’s eye introduce depth and variation, giving each dial a distinct character.
“Everybody must get stoned.”
This renewed interest highlights a broader shift in watchmaking, where material exploration and visual identity play an increasingly central role. As the event opens, the question is not whether these trends will appear, but how far brands will push them in redefining contemporary design.
