Hamilton, TAG Heuer, Chanel, Blancpain, Hermès, Patek Philippe: Six Brands, Six Visions of Watchmaking Excellence
This week, explore six standout stories: a Hamilton with military roots, TAG Heuer’s tribute to Goodwood, Chanel’s evolving J12, Blancpain’s new women’s dive watches, Hermès in motion, and Patek Phili
THIS WEEK’S NEWS
A Personal Flight Plan in Steel: Why the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Still Matters
When the search for a first Swiss mechanical watch begins, most collectors focus on specifications or brand prestige. For me, the decision took a more personal course. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm became not just a timekeeper, but a daily reminder of legacy and purpose—connecting me to my late grandfather, a Royal Navy air search and rescue pilot, and preparing me for my upcoming service in the Swiss Air Force.
The model I chose features a crisp white dial, bold black Arabic numerals, and a green NATO strap—an aesthetic that resonated with my own path. While my grandfather likely wore a black dial variant during missions between 1950 and 1962, this white version felt like a modern tribute. A blend of tradition and individuality, it symbolized both my respect for his history and my unique course ahead.
Hamilton’s deep roots in military aviation history sealed the connection. Its timepieces have long accompanied pilots in critical moments, where accuracy was not an accessory, but a matter of survival. The Khaki Field Mechanical reflects this legacy. It is powered by a hand-wound H-50 movement offering an impressive 80-hour power reserve, housed in a 38mm stainless steel case with 50 meters of water resistance, sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova on hands and indices, and drilled lugs for easy strap swaps.
What I did not anticipate was how versatile this watch would be. At the office, it slips neatly under a shirt cuff. On the weekend, it holds its own during hands-on mechanical work. More than a reliable tool, it is a piece of personal history—for less than CHF 600.
This watch will accompany me throughout my time in the Swiss Alps, as I continue a story that began generations ago. It is not just a beginning—it is a continuation.
TAG Heuer Honors Goodwood with a Racing Chronograph Built for Legacy
Motorsport and watchmaking have long shared a common language—precision, speed, and heritage. In celebration of this synergy, TAG Heuer introduces a new chronograph that pays tribute to one of racing’s most iconic events: the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Held on the historic Goodwood Estate in West Sussex, England, the event was founded in 1993 by Charles Gordon-Lennox, now the Duke of Richmond. With the original motor circuit deemed unsuitable for modern races, he transformed the estate’s main driveway into a hillclimb track. Since then, Goodwood has grown into a magnet for racing enthusiasts, collectors, and drivers alike.
Each year, the festival showcases everything from vintage machines to the latest innovations in performance. Spectators can expect timed runs, historic vehicles, and memorable moments—such as Max Chilton’s record-breaking sprint in the McMurtry Spéirling or Lando Norris behind the wheel of Ayrton Senna’s McLaren MP4/6. This is not just a celebration of cars, but of speed and legacy.
To mark this year’s edition, TAG Heuer has created the Carrera Chronograph x Festival of Speed. Designed around a 42mm stainless steel case, the timepiece stands out with its deep British Racing Green dial—reminiscent of classic Aston Martins and Bentleys. The hobnail texture gives the dial depth, while red accents bring energy and contrast. A brown perforated leather rally strap with white stitching completes the vintage-inspired look.
Beneath the surface is TAG Heuer’s in-house Calibre TH20-00. This movement delivers an 80-hour power reserve, a column wheel, and vertical clutch—mechanical features tailored for both durability and smooth chronograph function. A transparent caseback reveals the movement and features a special engraving of the Goodwood Festival of Speed logo.
Limited to just 100 pieces and initially offered to Goodwood Road Racing Club members, this watch blends racing heritage with modern craftsmanship. It is not just a chronograph—it is a tribute to the spirit of Goodwood.
NEW WATCHES
Chanel Redefines Elegance and Precision with the Latest J12 Models
Chanel continues to transform its J12 collection into a compelling expression of watchmaking expertise, while staying true to its distinctive design language—ceramic, black and white, and a flair for the unexpected. The most recent additions to the line, unveiled at Watches and Wonders, reinforce this evolution with two 33mm models that delicately bridge fashion and fine horology.
At first glance, these new timepieces preserve the house’s signature contrast. One is entirely black, the other white, yet both are accented with a refined touch of 18-carat yellow gold. For the first time in the J12’s 25-year history, gold makes its way into the bracelet design, appearing on the central link and flanked by ceramic on either side. This subtle juxtaposition enhances the tactile and visual complexity of the watches. Each model features 12 baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers, lending understated sophistication to the dial.
The composition extends beyond surface details. A gold minute track encircles the lacquered dial, and the seconds hand is color-matched to its respective model. Surrounding the face is a bezel framed in gold and inlaid with 46 sapphire glass segments, each shaped and faceted like baguette-cut diamonds. Though these are not gemstones, the illusion is convincing and cleverly executed—an imaginative nod to the world of high jewelry.
Powering these models is the Caliber 12.2, an automatic movement developed by Kenissi, a manufacture partly owned by Chanel. This COSC-certified chronometer offers a 50-hour power reserve and was engineered specifically to fit the smaller 33 mm case. A sapphire crystal caseback reveals Chanel’s distinctive circular rotor, further anchoring the piece in mechanical credibility.
With these latest J12 designs, Chanel solidifies its position not only in fashion but also in the realm of serious watchmaking, offering a design that honors its origins while embracing technical refinement.
Blancpain Expands the Fifty Fathoms Legacy with New 38 mm Models for Women
Blancpain introduces a new chapter in its iconic Fifty Fathoms collection, unveiling two automatic models created specifically for women. Marking a first for the brand, these watches feature a newly designed 38 mm case, not simply scaled down, but thoughtfully reengineered to ensure well-balanced proportions. This shift in size reflects a broader commitment to both technical refinement and inclusivity within the Fifty Fathoms family.
The two debut references include a smoky black dégradé dial paired with an 18-carat red gold case, and a radiant pink variation set within brushed titanium. Both dials are crafted from mother-of-pearl, offering a soft iridescence that shifts with the light, enhanced by subtle color gradients. Blancpain complements each model with purposefully selected straps: the black version offers several options, including a tropic rubber strap and sailcloth or NATO fabric, while the pink model features a white fabric strap with two-tone pink stripes.
Inside, the watches are powered by the automatic Caliber 1153, developed in-house and offering a 100-hour power reserve along with a silicon balance spring. These mechanical elements are paired with signature dive-watch features such as a domed unidirectional sapphire bezel and 300 meters of water resistance.
Beyond craftsmanship, these watches also support Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment. Highlighting the Ocean Photographer of the Year competition and the Female Fifty Fathoms Award, the brand honors women whose photographic work captures the beauty and vulnerability of marine environments. As Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain, explains: “These watches meet the growing demand for sporty, yet elegant timepieces perfectly tailored to slimmer wrists... They stand as a testament to our watchmaking heritage and to the women who, through their art and courage, reveal the wonders of the underwater world.”
These new additions mark a meaningful evolution of the Fifty Fathoms line—technically accomplished, aesthetically distinct, and purpose-driven.
WATCH KNOWLEDGE
Hermès Transforms Time into Art with the Arceau Locomotion
Hermès presents a vivid reinterpretation of its Arceau timepiece through the Arceau Hermès Locomotion, a watch that blends craftsmanship with imaginative visual storytelling. Designed around the emblematic boutique on Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the piece brings to life a colorful, futuristic vision originally conceived by French illustrator and director Ugo Bienvenu for the Hermès Locomotion scarf. His pop-art aesthetic, marked by curved forms and saturated hues, now animates the dial of this limited-edition creation.
First introduced in 1978 by Henri d’Origny, the Arceau case has long served as a canvas for artistic exploration. In this version, it becomes a dynamic stage for miniature painting and depth illusion. The dial is crafted in two layers: the first, hand-painted with vibrant shades of pink, yellow, blue, and green, serves as the foundational surface. Fine brushwork transforms original pencil sketches into detailed color scenes. The second layer is applied to the underside of the domed sapphire crystal, reinforcing the sensation of dimensionality, like a three-dimensional diorama encased in white gold.
At the heart of the dial, two silver-toned leaf-shaped hands indicate the hours and minutes with restrained elegance, allowing the art to remain the focus. The watch is powered by the Hermès Manufacture H1912 automatic movement, known for its reliability and smooth performance. It is housed in a 38 mm white gold case and fitted with a pale mauve alligator leather strap, carefully selected to complement the subtle gradients of the dial.
Limited to only 12 pieces, the Arceau Hermès Locomotion stands as both a technical achievement and a tribute to creative vision. It is a watch that does not merely tell time, but invites the wearer to pause and observe—a quiet intersection of motion, color, and craftsmanship.
Patek Philippe Reveals Its Vision for 2025 Through Key Figures
In a rare show of transparency, Patek Philippe has shared detailed production data, offering a clearer picture of its growth trajectory and industry standing. This strategic disclosure challenges the long-standing secrecy in Swiss watchmaking, where production numbers are typically guarded to prevent speculation on pricing or cost structures. By releasing such data, Patek Philippe signals stability and controlled growth, reassuring both collectors and market observers.
The Geneva-based manufacture aims to produce 72,000 watches in 2025. This marks a noticeable increase from the 58,000 units estimated in 2017 and 62,000 in 2022. Unlike some brands that intentionally cap output to create scarcity, Patek Philippe pursues a strategy of gradual, managed expansion. Of the planned 72,000 pieces, 58,000 will be automatic and 7,000 manually wound. Quartz models will comprise the remaining 7,000, all of which are destined for the women’s collection, primarily the Twenty~4 line.
Supporting this scale of production requires substantial component sourcing. The brand expects to produce or order 16.5 million parts in 2025—an average of 230 components per watch. This figure aligns with the complexity of Patek Philippe’s catalog, which favors mechanical watches with simple complications such as date or calendar functions.
To meet these demands, the manufacture will operate with 18 base calibers—15 for wristwatches, two for pocket watches, and one for desk clocks. Combined with variations for complications, this results in 50 distinct movement references. Many of these calibers remain in service for over a decade, reflecting a philosophy rooted in continuity rather than turnover.
Patek Philippe’s foundation remains in Geneva, where 2,080 of its 2,670 Swiss employees are based. The company employs 254 qualified watchmakers and operates 400 machines, many of which are high-value CNC units. Though annual revenue is not officially disclosed, estimates place it near CHF 2 billion, ranking the company just behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, and Audemars Piguet.
